Please teach me about clamps

[Jim Becker]

Simple pipe clamps, with or without the "foot" option are a good way to economically get a bunch of clamps in the shop swiftly and even if you get obsessed with parallel clamps over time (like many of us have...) they still come in handy when you need "something longer" or "something unique" for a particular projects. In other words, they are a good investment over time, even if they get infrequent use down the road. Pipe clamps will exert all the pressure you need. You just need to measure more carefully to insure things are clamping up true because that is less inherent in the clamp like it is with the considerably more expensive parallel clamps. (where you still need to measure "to be sure" anyway)

You'll also want a variety of different kinds of clamps for flexibility...never less than two of a particular type. For example, I have four "quick clamps" with about a 8" capacity that are literally indispensable for so many things during both milling and assembly. I also have several pairs of different size "F" clamps that "do what they do" very well when they are the right size and shape for what's needed to be clamped. I have a bunch of really small "F" clamps for general utility. And some spring clamps for one-handed needs. Try to pick up stuff like this when there's a sale or promotion because you will use them and you'll save money and time having things in the shop, rather than having to run out in the middle of something and pay full price due to the "emergency".

You can never have too many clamps...

[Lee Schierer]

I use pipe clamps exclusively and have few if any problems. The trick is to alternate your clamps on each side of the panel you are gluing up and tighten them in stages. Get your boards lined up and held with clamps that are snug. Once you are happy with the glue up give them another crank each in sequence. If the panel starts bowing up loosen the bottom clamps slightly and tighten the ones on top. You don't need to crush the wood to get a good joint if your edge preparation if your edges have been trued and squared properly. If the board don't fit tight together with light hand pressure, the joint will likely fail after the clamps are removed, usually about a week after you put the finish on.

[Dave Macy]

The Dubuque's seem to be well reviewed, and I was thinking of getting a few myself just because I like that style so much (and I have quite a few parallel clamps). Best price I've found so far on those is at Coastal Tools, BTW.
Ken

Ended up picking some up and tonight was the first time I had a chance to use them. I like them a lot, thanks. Felt good to have something go right after spending more money on my darn bs. I think I used too much glue though.
20161209_210504.jpg

[Matt Day]

Good to hear. Glue joint looks okay to me - unless there are puddles of glue underneath.

[John Lankers]

Ended up picking some up and tonight was the first time I had a chance to use them. I like them a lot, thanks. Felt good to have something go right after spending more money on my darn bs. I think I used too much glue though.
20161209_210504.jpg

This looks like perfect glue squeeze out to me, I wouldn't want anything less (or more).
You could try and put thin strips of plastic (1/8" think puck board for example) between the clamps and your project next time to keep the clamps clean and keep them from touching the actual glue line, also some metals can react with the glue and stain the wood.

[Lee Schierer]

Your squeeze out is a bit heavy IMO, but not overly excessive. Scrape that glue off with a paint scraper before it completely cures between the clamps and it will save you a lot of work sanding. Buy a roll of wax paper and place it over (under) your clamps if you are worried about getting glue on them. Be careful when gluing thin pieces together as it is easy to apply too much pressure and bow the wood up, even to the point where it will pop right out of the clamps. Also place sacrificial pieces of wood between the clamp faces and the edges of your finished work to prevent indentations in your finished edges. I keep thin strips I rip off panels when sizing them for this purpose.

[Bruce Page]

This looks like perfect glue squeeze out to me, I wouldn't want anything less (or more).
You could try and put thin strips of plastic (1/8" think puck board for example) between the clamps and your project next time to keep the clamps clean and keep them from touching the actual glue line, also some metals can react with the glue and stain the wood.

That looks like a good squeeze out to me as well. I use good ol' wax paper to protect the clamps from drips. I let the excess glue set up a bit and use a paint scraper to remove.

[Dave Macy]

Your squeeze out is a bit heavy IMO, but not overly excessive. Scrape that glue off with a paint scraper before it completely cures between the clamps and it will save you a lot of work sanding. Buy a roll of wax paper and place it over (under) your clamps if you are worried about getting glue on them. Be careful when gluing thin pieces together as it is easy to apply too much pressure and bow the wood up, even to the point where it will pop right out of the clamps. Also place sacrificial pieces of wood between the clamp faces and the edges of your finished work to prevent indentations in your finished edges. I keep thin strips I rip off panels when sizing them for this purpose.

Will do thanks

[Van Huskey]

Keep in mind too much glue only means more cleanup work, too little means a possibly weak joint, if you err, err on the side of too much. My only concern is each end looks a little "under glued". This could also be from less clamping pressure at the ends, I would have placed the outside clamps a tad closer to the ends, especially the clamp at the bottom of the picture. Clamping force spreads out like a V from the point of the clamp. As you develop more skills you can investigate spring joints which not everyone uses but I find they help in equalizing clamping force.

[jack duren]

I use a lot of these, but rarely a parallel...

[jack duren]

I found the 4" Milwaukee to be useless but the 2" should be fineMilwaukee-Hand-Clamp.jpg
I found the Bessey spring clamp to be great but wish I could get them in a metal versionbessey_clippix_200.jpg
I have been tempted to buy a few of the of the Bessey parallels from Amazon for $17.99 but for torsion boxes165501.jpg

[Jim Becker]

I have been tempted to buy a few of the of the Bessey parallels from Amazon for $17.99 but for torsion boxes165501.jpg

These appear to be the light duty UniClamps which are not the "fully parallel" design. That said, I have a few and they come in handy because of the larger, flat faces and I prefer them to F-clamps for that reason for general clamping. I wish they came in more sizes in that respect.

[Bill Adamsen]

Those are nice looking clamps. I don't have any parallel clamps so I typically have to mount clamps on both sides of a panel to get a balanced glue-up. As others have mentioned, consider making cauls especially for thinner edging. Someone mentioned that you can rarely have too many clamps and I'd agree. I will say however that quality too is important. I was working with someone the other day and both of us had malleable cast bar clamps, and his made by Bessey (the TGJ series?) were much nicer than mine which at the time they were made were also a USA made product.

My favorite clamps are those you can make. There are lots of plans on the web for specialized boat building clamps some of which have good uses in cabinet and furniture building. One of my favorites was detailed by Harry Bryan in the Sept./Oct. 2014 issue of Wooden Boat. A deep-reach clamp, the fabricator can adjust both reach and length for his own needs. I made a number of them and plan on making more. There are other boat clamps worth looking at ... such as the specialized lapstrake clamp which is easy and inexpensive to make as well.

[glenn bradley]

I found the 4" Milwaukee to be useless but the 2" should be fineMilwaukee-Hand-Clamp.jpg

This style/format proved worthless to me regardless of size.

I found the Bessey spring clamp to be great but wish I could get them in a metal versionbessey_clippix_200.jpg

I prefer these over the metal ones but, have a grip of both, The metal ones come into play when more force is required.

I have been tempted to buy a few of the of the Bessey parallels from Amazon for $17.99 but for torsion boxes165501.jpg

My most used clamp.

Cleat Clamp Rack V2 (15).jpgCleat Clamp Rack V2 (14).jpg

[Mike Manning]

Glenn, Is there a reason for storing your clamps wide open as these are? This summer I bought 8 of the Bessey parallel clamps locally from a fellow. I've got mine stored closed just leaning against a shop wall. I don't have a lot of experience with clamping thus far.