Please teach me about clamps

[Dave Macy]

Can someone please school me on clamps? I recently bought a bunch only to find out I made a big mistake. I bought some bessey econo clamps. But now that I've been having some glue up problems I keep hearing people talk about parallel clamps. Do they make a big difference? I need some 24"or 30" clamps. I get by without bigger for now, so does anyone have a recommendation on how to find some at a decent price for someone just getting into woodworking? Thanks

[Ken Platt]

Dave, if you'll post what exactly you are gluing up, and what the problems are, folks can assist more. I'm guessing your clamps are what is called the "F" style, and you are trying to glue up panels? If so, then yes, parallel clamps, or at least something with a bigger jaw, would serve you better. If you have the $$$, absolutely go for the parallel clamps (the parallel, in case you didn't know, refers to the jaw maintaining a parallel orientation during clamping so that panels tend to stay flat.) A less expensive bar clamp for panel glue up might be something like the Dubuque aluminum bar clamp. I have a bunch of very similar, but no longer made, Jorgensens which I use all the time and like a lot. The Dubuque's seem to be well reviewed, and I was thinking of getting a few myself just because I like that style so much (and I have quite a few parallel clamps). Best price I've found so far on those is at Coastal Tools, BTW.

Hope this helps.

Ken

[Dave Cav]

Go to Harbor Freight and get some 3/4" pipe clamp ends. Then go to a junk yard and get some scrap 3/4" pipe and have the ends threaded at Home Depot. If you absolutely can't find any scrap pipe, get a 10 foot piece of 3/4" pipe from Home Depot, have them cut it into thirds and thread one end of each. I have over 70 pipe clamps from 30" to six feet long, with many different brands of ends. The H.F. ends aren't as nicely finished as a lot of them but they seem to work fine.

[glenn bradley]

You'll get a lot of responses on this as folks have varied opinions. I am definitely in the parallel clamp camp.

Cleat Clamp Rack V2 (8).jpg

I use Bessey K-body clamps for larger things and Bessey UniKlamps for case work. I do have a plethora of F-style clamps but, use them where they make sense which is not always everywhere.

At 24 and 30 inches you are looking for full sized parallel clamps. With the demise of the Bessey K-body style the new Revo offering can give folks sticker shock. If you are indeed gluing up panels then good news; aluminum bar clamps from Harbor Freight can be stiffened up with a wooden insert (or used without at low pressures) and go on sale for something like $10 each. A little time can make them perform like their $30 better cousins.

HF bar clamp fix (1).jpgHF bar clamp fix (3).jpgHF bar clamp fix (2).jpgHF bar clamp fix (4).jpgHF bar clamp fix (5).jpg

Don't get me wrong the Debuque or the Rockler Sure Foot versions are the bomb but, we can't always dump a large chunk of cash right off. My practice was to decide on a maker and style of clamp and then take advantage of any sales I stumbled across as time went by. When I finally got to where I wasn't running out of clamps during glue-ups, I stopped . . . well slowed down anyway ;-)

What you do and how you do it will drive your needs but, I use lots of Bessey mighty-minis for small jobs; holding squaring jigs, trim, curves, etc. I use a lot of Bessey UniKlamps; definitely my most used clamp type. I have a fair number of parallel clamps (K-body) in 24", 31" and 50" and then some Jet (meh!), Baily (surprisingly good) and so forth. Like the HF aluminum bar clamps pictured above, I have a random collection of other specialty clamps, pipe clamps, hand screws, frame and strap clamps and all that.



Some or all of this may be useless to you. Only time and your own path will tell what clamping devices and fixtures truly have value for you. Good luck.

[Frederick Skelly]

I have a bunch of F-body clamps in various sizes. I use them for everything.

I bought a set of 4 parallel clamps this time last year - bought them right - but havent even used them. The F-bodies do what I need. I look forward to usingbthe parallel clamps when the right job for them comes along!

Fred

[Dave Lehnert]

Dont overlook pipe clamps. What we all used before K body type clamps.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-H-...-H34/204986131

[John Lankers]

I don't think you made a mistake buying these clamps, I own at least 30 or 40 of the light duty Bessey clamps and a bunch of Jorgensen clamps. For panel glue up's I use 3/4" Bessey pipe clamps (the ones with the 'claw foot') . I have pipes ranging from 18" to 4' and use connectors if I need longer clamps.
I would love to buy Bessey K Body parallel clamps but can't justify the cost. Btw. Don't waste your money on blue parallel clamps.

[mreza Salav]

Every clamp has its uses. The clamps I most use are my parallel clamp, as they help a lot in glue-ups of panels and the like. Pipe clamps are cheaper alternative but they can put a lot more pressure too (I have mostly 4'+ and some 10' pipe clamps). C-clamps can also come hand in various places. F-clamps are good too but not for panel glue-ups. Save your money and buy parallel clamps (and good quality ones).

[Matt Day]

When I started woodworking about 12 years ago when I was 25, I started with an inexpensive set of Colombian F clamps from Amazon (no longer sold). I added clamps on the cheap as I went, such as the Rockler sure foot for big glue ups. My first parallel clamps were discontinued yellow ones (Stanley's?) from Big Lots. Since then I've kept an eye out at garage sales and auctions for clamps and added Jorgensen f clamps, and Bessy K bodies. I bought about 12 Jet parallels during their 50% off Black Friday sale last year and the year before. Just picked up a couple Bessy's and Woodcraft parallel clamps for $5 each at a garage sale.

What I'm saying is buy what you need for the project, and you can afford. You don't need parallel clamps to make nice stuff. Parallel clamps are sweet but expensive, and if you're just starting out you probably can spend you're money in more worthy areas.

[Ted Prinz]

Lots of good responses and info on this one. Personally I have all kinds of clamps and I use different ones all the time. I agree 100% with those who have said to purchase what you need when you need it or grab a deal at a garage sale, etc.

About the only things I'll add are to - 1) Be sure to work up a storage/clamp management plan. And - 2) the parallel clamps have a place in the shop. But they aren't perfect and they can be HEAVY. Moving a big panel around after clamping up with them can be a challenge.

[Robert Engel]

I like what DaveCav ^ said.

Starting out, I definitely think pipe clamps are the way to go. I used nothing but pipe clamps for years quite successfully. The only draw back to them they do not clamp parallel so panel glue up require some technique. Alternating clamps and/or using cauls are a must (no big deal). And you have to make very sure the glue line does not contact the pipe.

One huge advantage to pipe clamps other than economy is you can put together a clamp as long as you need, using pipe couplers.

Don't poo poo those HF aluminum bar clamps. They are plenty strong enough for panel glue ups but they tend to bow quite a bit. You have to use a bunch of them that's all. Some put a length of hardwood inside the bar to increase the strength.

Aside from these, you will need a good assortment of F clamps. You need 12", 6" and 4" I would say at least 8 of each. You can often find Bessey sets on sale at Home Depot this time of year. I also have a few cheap Pittsburgh F clamps from HF that work ok.

I think a set of Irwin quick clamps are also very handy when trying to clamp with one hand.

Once you get into a project and find you need more clamps that is the time to buy more.

[Greg Hines, MD]

You should also search here for making cauls for your clamps. They can help smooth out some of the problems with cheaper F-style clamps. The old adage is that you can never have too many clamps. A corollary to that is that you never throw them away either. It is a virtual guarantee that as soon as you do, you need just one more for your project.

Doc

[Wes Ramsey]

I don't have much clamp advice, but maybe a bit of wisdom a friendly woodworker shared with me several years ago might help. Keep a list of shop needs and set aside a bit of money here and there as you get it and buy those tools when you come across a deal you can't pass up. You might find a great buy on new clamps next year or a steal on a used bandsaw or jointer that you've been eyeing that you may not NEED right now, but you know you will later. Waiting to buy until you need something will usually run you close to full price, but if you have money already set aside when a deal appears you can jump on it. I've watched some killer deals pass me by when I just didn't have the money and ended up paying much more later when I really needed it.

This approach has other benefits - when you buy a new tool in the middle of a project because you need it right then you have to stop work to set it up and learn how to use it. If you buy it when the need isn't immediate you can do all that between projects. You also get to be more picky when buying used gear - if the deal or the tool isn't just right you can pass it up without regret.

[Sam Murdoch]

Clamping technique is important too. Lots of new woodworkers tend to tighten their clamps with as much pressure as they can muster. Over clamping is not useful - squeezes out too much glue and very often leads to misshapen projects.

Make certain your joints are fitted properly so that the clamps need ONLY HOLD the boards together rather than pulling them into submission.

With pipe clamps and board glue ups as with table tops - it is best to alternate your clamps from one face to the other to equalize the pull of the clamps. Alternatively use cauls (do a google on cauls if this is a new term). The cauls are very useful to maintaining flat glue ups.

My typical technique, using Bessey parallel clamps, is to stand my table top/shelf type glue ups on edge. I alternate my clamps apprroximately 12" apart and check the entire assembly for flat. Loosen my clamps and retighten as needed to generate flat and or add front to back cauls, that I made, in circumstances that require more flattening. This method allows me to set one clamped up assembly aside (on the floor even) to allow room on the bench to do more glue ups. I really love the Bessey parallel clamps with the flat clamp heads for this reason. Mine were made in WEST GERMANY - likely no longer available . I have some made by Gross Stabil too. Those don't operate as smoothly as the Besseys but they are useful nonetheless.

[Dennis Peacock]

I don't have much clamp advice, but maybe a bit of wisdom a friendly woodworker shared with me several years ago might help. Keep a list of shop needs and set aside a bit of money here and there as you get it and buy those tools when you come across a deal you can't pass up. You might find a great buy on new clamps next year or a steal on a used bandsaw or jointer that you've been eyeing that you may not NEED right now, but you know you will later. Waiting to buy until you need something will usually run you close to full price, but if you have money already set aside when a deal appears you can jump on it. I've watched some killer deals pass me by when I just didn't have the money and ended up paying much more later when I really needed it.

This approach has other benefits - when you buy a new tool in the middle of a project because you need it right then you have to stop work to set it up and learn how to use it. If you buy it when the need isn't immediate you can do all that between projects. You also get to be more picky when buying used gear - if the deal or the tool isn't just right you can pass it up without regret.

I agree with Wes here...especially if you are wanting to save money over the long haul.