I also vote for moderately thinned TB 3, doing the glue up on a cool and damp morning can buy you another 5 minutes easily - but then, if I leave a door open this time of year the glue would probably freeze before it sets .
I also vote for moderately thinned TB 3, doing the glue up on a cool and damp morning can buy you another 5 minutes easily - but then, if I leave a door open this time of year the glue would probably freeze before it sets .
Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
Dennis -
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In addition to all of the above, since you have helpers, you can speed things up by assigning one person just to spread the glue via roller and have whomever is remaining of the team at their spots ready to add the cauls and clamps. Refreshments can sometimes provide additional helpers... I'm sure you're already doing this, but it really does come down to having a "system" for each iteration to keep things fast, but still accurate. I didn't have helpers when I did my kitchen island top and it was a royal pain...and that's a much smaller surface than you're working!
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
This is my favorite glue, Lee Valley cabinetmakers glue, and it has 15-20 minute open time.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...10,42965,45104
I would test this at several open times. Glue small scraps from the batch of wood you'll be using for the top. Keep an accurate record of times and temperatures.
I had a new jug of properly dated Titebond fail on a small job years ago, so I learned a lesson.
Now I test all glues old and new before any important project.
"Whether you think you can, or you think you can’t - you’re right."
- Henry Ford
When we made some tops for government we found it was faster and easier to stack glue 2x8 material then slice off on bandsaw ,face, plane ,joint and edge glue. Trying to glue 2 by 2 pieces was really messy and produced some open ends. Time was saved at wide belt sander since the tops were much flatter than the ones made from moulder run pieces ,many of which were too crooked to use. They told us they were the best ones they had ever bought.
I use epoxy for long open time. You can easily have thirty minutes or more, depending on the temperature in your shop, and which catalyst you choose. And unlike urea-formaldehyde, there's no concern about carcinogenic outgassing. I use West Systems epoxy. System Three is equivalent.
I used Titebond Extend to glue up a maple bench top - strips of 4/4 maple 7'x2-1/2" glued in sections. Was able to get glue on 4 faces well within the open time without going crazy. Bench is about 5 years old and top sill looks great
Plastic resin glue should be your go to. PVA is very inferior for your application compared to plastic resin. In fact I would use the powdered pre-cat product and have done so on large cutting board runs. 70 degrees F min!