Member
I have a 70's Unisaw, right tilt, and just move the fence to the left of the blade for bevel cuts. No biggee. I picked mine up for $200 and did nothing more than a tear down and clean up. 3 HP and it runs like a champ. No plans to replace it any time soon. I have been using the MJ splitter for a while now and it really does the job well. I would like to have a riving knife, of course, but the splitter is ok.
Contributor
Paul
I have both in the shop,and to be brutally honest I don't see much difference.
My left tilt has a slider to the left of the blade, so the wood could get "pinched" by the blade on a bevel cut, but so far I haven't had any issues. I also don't do enough bevel cuts on a table saw to really be concerned about it.It makes sense that I should install the slider on my right tilt, to the left of the blade, but,,,,,,,
As to the price of the saw?
It's a nice saw. I have no idea what one sold for new, but by the time you add a mobil base, the extended wing, and an upgraded fence, and the cost of shipping for a new saw, to a similar Grizzly, you're probably about even, if not slightly ahead just for the saw. There are plenty of aftermarket riving knife setups available,and any machine shop could make a custom one. The seller doesn't mention blades in the ad, so maybe???????
If the DC hasn't been upgraded and is still a filter bag, you may want to factor the conversion to a canister into the equation, or converting it to a Thein setup.
As far as new machine warranties are concerned? It's never been an issue for me personally. It either works or it doesn't, and in a home garage setup it's likely that it will be out of warranty, before it gets used enough to encounter a problem. Generally I tear every machine down brand new and rebuild them anyway, adding better fasteners, and making sure that everything really is aligned properly.
Don't let parts support hold you back either. There are still plenty of OEM parts available and people routinely "part out" machines and sell the parts on eBay, or Craigslist. Additionally, most new manufactured saws are virtual clones of older units, and parts can at times be direct fit. Bearings usually are the first items to go, and any bearing distributor can find a replacement bearing for virtually any machine.
I guess my bottom line is that if you like that saw, go for it. Offer the seller a couple hundred less in cash and go from there. You'd definitely be up and running quick, and sometimes that can have a value associated with it.
Last edited by Mike Cutler; 12-03-2016 at 10:46 AM.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Member
1 vote for left tilt. I used to make a long post 'wraps' out of 1x material and found I always had better results with the finished side up as with a left tilt vs the tearout on a right tilt and finished side down.
Moderator
True sliding table saws typically are right-tilt because of how the material is handled. Any chance you could switch the sliding setup you have over to your right-tilt saw?Originally Posted by Mike Cutler
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Contributor
Jim
I could switch over easily, and should, not just for the safety aspect.
My shop is only 9' wide, and having that Mast-R-Slide hanging off the left side of the saw get's in the way. When it's not in use, the slide and fence are off the saw and stored on top of the planer. My first table saw feeds onto a Delta shaper and then that feeds onto the second table saw, which is set up for cross cutting. It's a pretty big cast iron island in the middle of a 9'x19' area.
Now that I have had both shoulders and my knee fixed, I've been re-arranging things so that I can work more easily, so the Mast-R-Slide may move.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Member
It really boils down to preference. Right tilt bevels toward the fence on a standard bevel cut, which is considered less safe than if it beveled away from the fence. You can move the fence to the left of the blade for safer bevel cuts, but that makes it a non-standard operation, which is still not quite as safe as a bevel cut on a left tilt saw. On Left tilt saws the blade bevels away from the fence with the fence on the right of the blade (standard location), which is considered safer.
The downside of a left tilt saw is that any changes in blade thickness will skew the zero reference on the tape measure because the left side of the blade registers on the right side of the flange (the same direction as the tape measure reads). This can be adjusted by recalibrating the cursor, always using blades of the same thickness, using shims as spacers, or just measuring by hand. Blade thickness changes make no difference with a right tilt saw because the right side of the blade registers against the left side of the flange, so changes in blade thickness don’t impact the tape measure. Here’s another difference that will also be a matter of preference – the arbor nut on a right tilt saw gets applied from the left side of the blade and uses a reverse thread orientation, which is typically done with your left hand. The arbor nut on a left tilt saw goes on from the right side (easy for right handers) and uses a normal thread orientation.
Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....
Contributor
My Unisaw is a lot like that saw, except no mobile base on mine.
It looks to be in excellent condition.
Personally, I wouldn't pay more than $1,000 for it.
Member
I like left tilt. With 48" of table on the right side of the blade, I can miter big sheets if needed.
[OP]
Member
Hey All,
Thanks for the great information! I had not even considered a riving knife as being a factor. I don't have one now, nor do I have a splitter. I'm very, very attentive when using any of my tools, but we all know it only takes once. Although I really like the machine in the listing, I'm leaning now toward the Griz 1023 because of the safety factors. Plus I've read a bunch of very positive comments on the Griz.
Are there any tricks or tips you folks can share on the issue of having to recalibrate the cursor with blade changes?
Thanks again - this is a GREAT collective resource of very knowledgeable people!
Regards,
Paul
Contributor
Most of my blades are full kerf so i swap them out without issue. If i use a dado or some other blade I just measure. Recalibrating the cursor is no big deal. Rip a board, measure with a caliper. Loosen up the cursoe an move to the appropiate measurement. A couple minutes max.
Member
Me, I think thats way too muc for that saw. A grand max. Myself I don't like my blade tilting into my fence never have. For that reason all mine tilt away. I'm sure others will prefer it the other way.
Member
I think the 1023 is a lot of saw for the money. There are a few tricks I've tried for offsetting blade thickness changes - recalibrating the cursor, always using blades of the same thickness, using dado shims as spacers, or just measuring by hand. With a 3 hp saw, there's little need for thin kerf blade, so it's easiest to buy 1/8" full kerf blades, but if you still have some TK blades around, set the cursor for the full kerf blades and add an appropriately sized shim from a dado set against the flange when using the TK blades....worked out great til I replaced most of my blades with the same full kerf width.
If you need more rip capacity from the 1023, you can also very easily slide the front rail farther to the right by one bolt hole. No drilling, but you will want to fill the space between the front and rear rails to support the fence.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Last edited by scott spencer; 12-04-2016 at 7:49 AM.
Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....
Contributor
If the saw is in excellent shape, I would buy the saw. Fence in great shape ,etc. Mobile base,dust collector and a power hookup and your set.
You can sit around looking for a perfect deal but it's not going to be easy. We are selling a Powermatic at work for $1700. I know it's in good condition but I would buy that Delta first as it's probably doesn't have near the miles on it. You can always make an offer on the spot.
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Contributor
Paul
I've never found them to very accurate across the scale. Repeatable, but not accurate. There are probably better aftermarket tapes available, but I've not found a need for them. If I set mine dead on for 12", it doesn't mean it's dead on at 24". It's just a silkscreened, plasticized tape.
Mine is set to get me within a 32nd or so and then I have a 6' Starrett machine rule to make my final measurement.
Best way to keep the adjustment repeatable is to always use the same kerf blades.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Moderator
Riving knife would always be a priority with me...the fact that it stays on the saw 100% of the time and moves with the blade means it's always there doing it's job, whether the operation is a through cut or something embedded in the workpiece. Splitters work...when they are on the saw, but a "substantial" number of folks never put them back on after they remove them for a non-through cut.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
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