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Thread: Hammer K3

  1. #1

    Hammer K3

    I recently took delivery of a K3 table saw. All went fairly well until I tried dialing in the blade and fence.


    The blade stops at .5 degrees and won't go any further.
    IMG_1290.jpg

    And the the fence comes out of square when it is clamped against the main cast iron piece.
    IMG_1291.jpg

    Ive tried felder customer service but I've already been waiting a week for them to get back to me. Anybody with similar issues or suggestions. The manual is basically fire starter.

    not sure why the pictures rotated?

  2. #2
    Ryan, my C3-31 had the same issue with the angle pointer being off by 0.5 degree. I wonder if it's intentional (ie - they calibrate it while standing off to the left side - by the angle crank wheel - and from there it looks correct?). In any case, check if the blade is actually 90* to the table. If not, the 90* positive stop is a stop collar on the threaded rod which connects to the angle adjustment handwheel. If you pull the cover off like you were trying to change the blade, you'll see it. If it's just the indicator that's off by 0.5*, you'll see that there is a bolt holding that indicator in place that can be loosened to adjust the pointer. That's what I did.

    Not sure about the fence. Looks like you might have to shim out the bottom of the cast iron piece.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,248
    Ryan, Dan has the blade adjustment covered.

    Is the aluminum fence extrusion is supported by 4 flat head machine screws on the head? If so these are the adjustment for square.

    Is your guide rail parallel to the table top and 17mm below the surface? (Check that dimension in case it's no longer 17mm that's specified.

    Regards, Rod.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Virginia and Kentucky
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    3,364
    My K-3 was the same way and it adjusted the way Dan and Rod explained. I also use a Wixey and don't depend on the degree marking (on the decal) on the saw itself.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Coppell, TX
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    908
    My angle scale on the C3 is the same as Dan's. I ignore it as the blade at the stop is 90. My rip fence is also slightly bowed vertically (similar to yours, Ryan). I had to adjust the fence extrusion as per Rod's comment. At least on the C3 its still 17mm. I made a simple plywood depth jig as its a lot easier to adjust the extrusion relative to the cast iron top with the jig.

  6. #6
    Thanks for the info. I'll be curious to see what felder says about the fence if I ever hear back.

    Also, does anybody know what this is for? It's rigid plastic with some slots routed in the back side.
    IMG_1305.jpg

  7. #7
    I had that same question, Ryan My "pile of parts I can't identify" kept shrinking until that was the last piece remaining.

    It's the "ZCI" for when using a dado stack.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    north, OR
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    1,160
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs View Post
    I had that same question, Ryan My "pile of parts I can't identify" kept shrinking until that was the last piece remaining.

    It's the "ZCI" for when using a dado stack.
    It also works quite well as a template for making your own ZCI's ... I admit to having kept mine pristine on the side for that purpose

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,248
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Griffey View Post
    Thanks for the info. I'll be curious to see what felder says about the fence if I ever hear back.

    Also, does anybody know what this is for? It's rigid plastic with some slots routed in the back side.
    IMG_1305.jpg
    That's a table insert for your dado cutter.............Regards, Rod

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    It's important to remember that quite often, combo machines and other "industrial" tools need careful setup adjustments once delivered and put together after un-crating. It's a normal thing...and left to the buyer to do or hire out. I know I was warned about that when I bought my stuff a number of years ago, but sometimes the message gets lost in the process or the excitement. And as already noted, the "documentation" isn't always very helpful...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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