Still struggling with G0555 tension now w/ pics

[Dave Macy]

Yes, the bandsaw worked when I got it but it only had a fine tooth 1/4" blade that was completely shot. It came out of a small furniture maker's shop. He had other big ones in there. The arms aren't bent and when the blade is off, the wheel tilts in and out fine in fact I took it off just to look. Here's what I know although it isn't much:

I've tried with a few blades including the one that was on. I have the same problem all of the time so I know it's not the blade.
The problem started when I switched out springs and took out the tension pieces.
I know the bottom lock bushing is what creates the tension - when it hits the casting it draws on the square bottom nut and tensions the spring.

What I don't know is, what pulls up the casting?

I also noticed the new tension rod I got from grizzly is about 5/8" shorter than the original one, so I put the old one through a die and am back to using that since the threads have been restored... but it still feels like it may not be able to create the tension because it skips when it starts to get tight.

So while I can get tension on the spring, I am not getting tension on the blade.

If I thought I could dump this and get at least some of my money back I would and get something else. I'm a student though so don't have much money. I have a neighbor who asked me to make something for him for his wife for Christmas that would be my first money making piece but I don't think that's going to happen now.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dave,

The sliding bracket is that piece with the blade size markings on it. At the top of it is the lower lock collar. The lock collar has a set screw in it. Flip the tension release lever to the up position. Then turn the tension knob slowly until you see and can untighten the set screw in the lower lock collar. After backing that set screw partially out, screw the lower lock collar up the tension shaft until it lightly touches the bracket the upper lock collar is resting on. Then turn the tension knob and see if you can add tension to the blade.

BTW, an easy way to measure the bandsaw blade. Lay the blade on the floor teeth up. Take a piece of string and some masking or painters tape. Tape one end of the string to the outside of the blade. As you wrap the string around the outside of the blade every foot or so put another small piece of tape to hold the string in place. Mark the string where it passes or touches the end taped to the blade. Now remove the string and measure in a straight line from the end to the mark on the string.

[Dave Macy]

Thanks. I'll try again. I stopped for the night since my dad asked for help with Christmas lights. I'll be back out there after church tomorrow.

[Geoff Crimmins]

I know the bottom lock bushing is what creates the tension - when it hits the casting it draws on the square bottom nut and tensions the spring.
What I don't know is, what pulls up the casting?
.

Dave, this isn't quite correct. When you tighten the tension knob it it causes the square bottom nut to move up, which causes the spring to move up, which causes the tensioning casting to move up, which causes the upper wheel to move up. Eventually the blade becomes tight around the wheels, so the upper wheel can't move up any further. At that point, tightening the tension knob more will cause the spring to compress.

I believe the upper shaft collar rides on the quick-release arms, and is what holds the threaded tension rod in position so it can lift the square nut. I'm not sure what the lower shaft collar does, but it should not be touching the tensioning casting. If it does, it will prevent everything from moving up correctly, and you won't be able to tension the blade. I think it's the position of this lower shaft collar that is causing your problem. (It's hard to be certain without being able to see the saw in person.)

--Geoff

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dave, this isn't quite correct. When you tighten the tension knob it it causes the square bottom nut to move up, which causes the spring to move up, which causes the tensioning casting to move up, which causes the upper wheel to move up. Eventually the blade becomes tight around the wheels, so the upper wheel can't move up any further. At that point, tightening the tension knob more will cause the spring to compress.

I believe the upper shaft collar rides on the quick-release arms, and is what holds the threaded tension rod in position so it can lift the square nut. I'm not sure what the lower shaft collar does, but it should not be touching the tensioning casting. If it does, it will prevent everything from moving up correctly, and you won't be able to tension the blade. I think it's the position of this lower shaft collar that is causing your problem. (It's hard to be certain without being able to see the saw in person.)

--Geoff

Geoff is dead on. I agree, the lower collar needs to move up.

They upper collar riding on the arms of the quick release lever is the device pulling the sliding bracket up via the shaft, spring and square nut. In doing so, it puts the tension on the blade. The shaft for the upper wheel is on the other side of the sliding bracket. As the sliding bracket moves up so does the upper wheel shaft.

The lower collar is there to limit the amount of movement probably to reduce the chances of over-tensioning the blade and damaging the upper wheel shaft IMO. If you watch the video on blade tension adjustment http://www.grizzly.com/products/The-...-Bandsaw/G0555 , they move it all the way up to the top collar until the blade is tensioned and tracking properly. Then they screw the lower collar down until it 1 or 2 turns from the upper wheel sliding bracket where they tighten the set screw to hold it in place.

There really is nothing magic about this. The upper collar rides on the two arms of the quick release lever. The upper collar is locked to the shaft of the tensioning rod by a set screw. Thus when you turn the tension shaft you are either pulling the sliding upper wheel bracket up to increase blade tension or pushing the sliding upper wheel down to reduce tension on the blade. On one side of the sliding upper wheel bracket you have the window to see the nice new yellow spring and the washer/pointer to set the tension to the gauge on the bracket. On the other side of the upper wheel sliding bracket you have the upper wheel shaft hinge.

Over tensioning the blade could conceivably bend the wheel shaft. Whether or not it could prevent you from tensioning a blade of proper length, I don't know. But it could certainly cause some tracking problems.

Watch the video. See how the pros at Grizzly recommend it be done!

[Dave Macy]

I've watched that video so many times I think I can quote the whole thing haha. I'm getting closer, see pics. I know what I need to do now but didn't get much chance since we got our tree and I had to work on a term paper for school.

I moved both bushings much further down and I'm now closer. I think here's why:

When the bottom bushing (lock coller) hits the casting, this is what draws the nut up and tensions the spring.

What the top bushing does, and only after it hits the arms, is draw up the casting.

So I have them all way too far up the rod. I only figured this out from using what I learned in scouts when navigating... build in an intentional error. So what I did was move everything too far down and try that, then move everything up too far and try that and see which is closer. I think right now I'm almost there, but need to move both a bit lower and keep the existing gap the same distance. I think if I go back out there tonight my mom is going to kill me though since I have to work on my paper.

Thanks for all the help, especially you Mr Fitzgerald. Thanks for all the time you spent on my problem.
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[Ken Fitzgerald]

Is the blade getting more tension on it? That is the question. I could care less what that scale reads. Is the blade tensioning....getting tighter?


Work on your paper. Education is more important!

I disagree with your analysis. Notice in the video, after they have adjusted blade tension and blade tracking, then and only then, do they adjust the lower locking collar down to the casting and then adjust it up 2 turns before they lock it in place with the set screw. The lower collar is there to set a range. It's not designed to put tension on the casting or the blade. Watch the video and follow it exactly.

The upper locking collar lifts the sliding upper wheel bracket (casting) and in doing so raises the wheel.

Good luck!

Get the paper done in good fashion too! Education is more important!

[Geoff Crimmins]

I would recommend removing the lower shaft collar and seeing if you can properly tension the blade without. If so, then you can replace the collar and find the correct position for it so that the blade still tensions correctly.

--Geoff

[Van Huskey]

There is a lot going on here and I personally don't have a clear enough picture in my mind to know the solution BUT I am curious did you compare the height of the Iturra spring to the original? I have seen significant height differences in OEM and aftermarket springs and significant variations in OEM springs from year to year.

[Dave Macy]

Well it looks like removing the lower bearing to see if I can tension the blade without it wasn't a good choice for me. As it tightened, the casting broke. So here goes more money into the saw and even more lost time. At this point I'm tempted to put it out with the trash but I can't afford anything else on my budget, especially with the holidays coming up. I'm so frustrated. Even after chilling for a few days not thinking about it, I go back in tonight and within 10 mins this happens. Maybe I should take up video games and make other bad choices after school.... I won't, but it seems like it would be easier.

[Ronald Blue]

That's unfortunate. Without seeing it welding or brazing might be an option. Backing up you said this tensioned the blade that came on it. If after you reassembled it you either have something together in the wrong order or just the wrong position. Lean on Van Huskey here. He is extremely knowledgeable about bandsaws and most everything else as well. Get a lot more photos so it's clear how things are assembled and set. I am a heavy equipment mechanic. From time to time when I put something back together and it doesn't work I backtrack and examine everything I did. When it worked before I "fixed" it and then doesn't afterwards I know most likely I made a mistake. When you are dealing with small orifices in valves and the like inverting a piece can cause something to no longer function or funtion incorrectly. Good luck.

[Van Huskey]

Well it looks like removing the lower bearing to see if I can tension the blade without it wasn't a good choice for me. As it tightened, the casting broke. So here goes more money into the saw and even more lost time. At this point I'm tempted to put it out with the trash but I can't afford anything else on my budget, especially with the holidays coming up. I'm so frustrated. Even after chilling for a few days not thinking about it, I go back in tonight and within 10 mins this happens. Maybe I should take up video games and make other bad choices after school.... I won't, but it seems like it would be easier.

By removing the bottom bearing do you mean the bottom guide?

Which part broke?

When you get the correct part in I suggest reassembling the saw with the original tension spring as you know the saw worked with it and you remove the variable of the new spring.

I am sorry you are having so many problems and I know what you mean about being frustrated but it is a problem that can be sorted out but you aren't the first nor the last to be stymied by a machine.

[Myk Rian]

The bracket may be bent. Common problem caused by over-tension. Part # 35-3

I'm still betting on this.

[Van Huskey]

I'm still betting on this.

The tension bracket is indeed a very big potential issue here and very well may have been bent and now has broken.

[Dave Macy]

Here's the update. I took some time, a lot of money, and ordered almost every part of the tension system new from grizzly. New rod, bushings, sliding tension bracket and even a new shaft with hinge and had to drive in the pins. Now I am right back where I started only much less money to buy more wood. The upper wheel will not move up anymore than it has. The new hinge with shaft has a piece that sticks out and hits the hole in the frame so it won't go any higher. I've had almost the whole thing apart.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't pour gas on this thing and just try to blow it up? Yes, I'm kidding. I'm ready to almost junk it but only problem is it would take months to save up enough money to get something else even used off Clist. it's as if the blades are all too long but I know at least the one fit when I got it although doesn't now. Man I hate this thing, and I've spent so much time on the phone with grizzly reps although several have given my conflicting directions. Ok my rant is over, but man I'm just so angry.
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