Douglas fir for furniture

[Phillip Mitchell]

I would totally use Doug Fir for certain furniture applications if it was clear vertical grain, older growth and tight grained. Concerning the Janka hardness of Doug Fir compared to Western Red Cedar (mentioned above), the fir (650-700) is nearly twice as hard as WRC (~350).

Doug fir can be splintery to work with, though. I have worked Doug fir many times during timber framing and you always have to be conscious and careful when cutting joinery and using a chisel aggressively. It can take on a beautiful finish with Tung Oil based stuff, in my opinion. I'm currently building a Roubo workbench using salvaged/orphaned drops from previous timber framing projects and am using Doug fir for the legs and stretchers. I think it will be plenty strong and hard enough for that application.

[Matthew Bradburn]

Well, I agree that fir and maple are close in color when newly milled, but of course the fir darkens a lot over time and the maple darkens just a little. I have maple floors vs. fir trim in my house, and it has sufficient contrast now that it's aged for a few years. My fir has a solvent-based finish, which may give a darker tone than water-based finishes.

[Ryan Griffey]

I use it on a regular basis. I mostly paint over it with milk paint, with the exception of fine cvg. It's plenty hard enough.

[Dave Zellers]

It pretty much must be old tight ringed and vertical grain to be furniture worthy.

Exactly my thought.

[Dave Zellers]

Geeze. Now reading to the end of the thread, I see that is pretty much everyone's thought as well!

[Jaze Derr]

Thank you, everyone, for your thoughts. If/when the pieces ever get built, I'll post pics!

[Bob Falk]

I have made some beautiful pieces from old DF bleacher seats. Old growth, tight vertical grain. DF tends to splinter and chip, but painters tape helps with that. Funny how under appreciated this wood is. I have a bunch of 20' and 15' long vertical grain boards that I have been trying to sell for $3 a bf (about what I pay for red oak around here) and no takers......

[David Helm]

I have made some beautiful pieces from old DF bleacher seats. Old growth, tight vertical grain. DF tends to splinter and chip, but painters tape helps with that. Funny how under appreciated this wood is. I have a bunch of 20' and 15' long vertical grain boards that I have been trying to sell for $3 a bf (about what I pay for red oak around here) and no takers......

Here in the Northwest, CVG Doug Fir runs $7 to $8 per board foot. Obviously people in Wisconsin don't know what you are trying to sell.

[Mike Heidrick]

I would make sure it is dry enough from a BORG. Get a moisture meter.

[Joe Samorodin]

I use fir for a lot of projects as well, I often try to use it in such a way as the tannins bring out the colour and continue to deepen as it ages. I use rift,quarter,and flat depending on circumstance. It is not the easiest to work but I always like the results. Also I have been using a lot of hemlock for its grain diversity, using it in cabinet doors with a wash so the grain
is not obscured and the flat grain gives a tactile feel.

[Bob Falk]

Here in the Northwest, CVG Doug Fir runs $7 to $8 per board foot. Obviously people in Wisconsin don't know what you are trying to sell.

David, I agree that the Cheddarheads are not appreciative of this old growth wood. The only offer I had was for less than a buck a foot....
I have about 80 planks and a storage problem, so not sure what to do.

[Stuart Muncer]

Doulglas Fir is fine wood for furniture. I have build several small end tables and small cabinets for friends that look great. I have also used a s a complimentary wood both mahogany and cherry. It compliments the dark red growth rings in the Douglas Fir.

Douglas Fir does splinter easily so one wants to be careful when working in long grain direction. Pay very close attention to gain direction.

As several have already stated Douglas Fir ages beautifully.