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Thread: Repair Oak Table Finish?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Launier View Post
    Jim, I suspect you and other married individuals know what i speak of.
    I believe one of Jim's posts years ago was the first time I ran into the acronym SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed).

    Since a new table is a possibility you are free to take a whack at it. Try an inconspicuous spot and put a drop of DNA on it, count to 20 and rub it off. If it melted the finish, your top coat is shellac (although not likely on a commercially finished dining table if that is what you have). If it is poly, the repair becomes more fussy than a total re-finish IMHO. Strip it, finish it and move on .
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  2. #17
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    Dec 2012
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    Looks like I was lucky as I left the DNA on for only a few seconds. I had just read Bob Flexner's book "Wood Finishing 101" & read his article on "Easy Finish Repairs". Since nothing else was working & I wasn't enthused about stripping/sanding/refinishing to match the other table sections I decided I had nothing to lose if I tried a quick shot with a lightly DNA damped cloth. I was surprised it worked, and so quickly. Immediately afterward I wiped it with soap & water to remove ant residual DNA, then let it dry for a few hours & re-applied the furniture polish. It now looks just like the rest of the table. Mission accomplished ..... as small as it may be.
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  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    If the table was made commercially the finish is not polyurethane which only used by amateurs, except for some two part (2k) mostly used in Europe. Its most likely a lacquer of some sort.

    Finger polish remover is a stronger solvent than needed. I'd use denatured alcohol or even 90% isopropol alchohol. Wipe lightly just dampening the surface, not wetting it. It may take several passes.

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