Beall Bowl Buff

[Paul Ray Moore]

I am looking at getting the bowl buffs for Christmas. For those who use these, do you find you use one of the sizes more than the others or do you need all 3 sizes?
Thanks,
Paul

[Bob Vavricka]

Paul, I use the Tripoli and White Diamond Buffs, but not the Carbuba wax buff. I rarely use wax and if I do, I use a little Renaissance Wax.

[Mike Nathal]

I have the 2 inch and 4 inch bowl buffs. I use the 4 inch all the time, but don't like the 2 inch, they are too hard. I also use 4 inch wheels quite a bit. I do my buffing on a stand-alone motor that runs at 1750 rpm. With 8 inch wheels that rpm is sometimes too high, the 4 inch wheels provide a softer, gentler option.

[Dan Case LR]

I am looking at getting the bowl buffs for Christmas. For those who use these, do you find you use one of the sizes more than the others or do you need all 3 sizes?
Thanks,
Paul

Different sizes work for different situations. What you need is dependent on what you turn. The buffing "wheels" work best for the outside of bowls and other vessels. The round buffs work well inside bowls and vessels (where they fit)--larger buffs for larger vessels. I use all three regularly.

I don't have a suitable motor, so I got the Morse #2 taper adapter. If you go this direction, get the extension--it gives you more working room, particularly if you have a smaller lathe (when I got my Beall stuff I had a MIDI lathe, but I still use it with my Powermatic).

In short, get 'em all. You won't regret it!

D.

I use all

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I am looking at getting the bowl buffs for Christmas. For those who use these, do you find you use one of the sizes more than the others or do you need all 3 sizes?
Thanks,
Paul

Are we talking different buffs or different size buffs ??

As for different buffs, you would not want to use the different polishes and or wax on the same buff, use and mark the buffs for the polish you use it with.

For different sizes smaller items you need smaller buffs like for inside goblets etc, as you won’t be able to use a large buff for that.

[Paul Ray Moore]

I am talking about the 2", 3" or 4" side. I know I need to have different ones for the different compounds. I want something to buff the inside of bowls.
Just wondered if a 3" size would cover most bowls. I know it will depend on what size I turn but I figure someone has an idea of the most popular size.

[Brice Rogers]

I'm totally ignorant about buffing but would like to ask a buffing question.

What types of finishes (poly, lacquer, BLO, tung oil, WTF, wax, etc.) work best with a buffing system and which finishes work poorly with a buffing system?

[John K Jordan]

I am looking at getting the bowl buffs for Christmas. For those who use these, do you find you use one of the sizes more than the others or do you need all 3 sizes?

I have several sizes but for the kinds of things I do I use the wheels (8" I think) the most. The wheels won't fit inside any but the largest bowls and then not gracefully. For general bowl use the larger bowl buffs sound be sufficient. You will probably want the extension if you use them on the lathe.

If you get the wheels another decision is whether to use the long mandrel or mount them individually. I personally dislike the 3 wheels mounted on one shaft. There simply is not enough room to maneuver a piece around the wheels when they are all mounted together. I far prefer putting them on the lathe one at a time. When I bought mine it was only available in a kit with three wheels and one MT2 mount - you were expected to remove the bolt with a wrench and change the wheel for each polishing step. I got tired of this (in my mind) before I got out of the store so I ordered two extra MT2 mounts, one for each wheel. This works very well, quick and lots of clearance on one side.

JKJ

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I am talking about the 2", 3" or 4" size. I know I need to have different ones for the different compounds. I want something to buff the inside of bowls.
Just wondered if a 3" size would cover most bowls. I know it will depend on what size I turn but I figure someone has an idea of the most popular size.

I like to use the 6 and 8 inch sizes I have, the 10 inch ones are not as much used, the small ones are only used when the larger ones can’t get into the piece.

The polishing works much better with the larger sizes, so depending on what you turn you’ll have to decide, though the more different sizes you have the better you can choose the one that works best for you.

I have several spare buffs and like in the picture buffing a 20 inch bowl would not work well with a 4 buff
buffs.jpg buffing 20%22 bowl.jpg

[Grant Wilkinson]

I have one size bowl buffs - the 3" and they seem to work well on anything that I turn that I want to buff. (I'm referring to the inside not the outside of the pieces.) I have never tried the 2 or 4, though, so your mileage may vary. As you realize, Paul, much depends on the size and shape of your turnings.

[Aaron Craven]

I think mine are the 4" buffs. I don't have the bowl buffs, though there are times I wish I had those as well.

I don't use an adapter. I just chuck up the buff directly in a jacob's chuck and make sure I seat it into the headstock firmly (I should probably be using a draw bar). Getting the right amount of material on the buff is tricky. Make sure you use a piece of scrap after applying it to make sure you don't have too much on it. If you do, the scrap piece can help clean off the excess. I have at least one bowl that is stained by tripoli that I couldn't fully remove.

[Wes Ramsey]

I have the 2" and 4" buffs, plus the 8" and the extension. I couldn't buff very many bowls without the extension. Too close to the headstock. The 2" buffs are about worthless, or maybe I say that I haven't found the right project to use them on just yet. The 4" buffs are nice to have and do the majority of my inside buffing.

I use all 3 buffs, though I do skip the WD buff on open-grained woods. If you're going for a smooth, glassy finish it really does make a difference.

As for preferred finish, I started out using them to buff poly and lacquer, but the recommended speed would melt the finish or eat it off in short order. I did, however, learn that on lacquer the right amount of pressure would soften and flatten runs, but sanding them flat is still the preferred method. I believe the recommended speed was for using on a Danish oil finish, and at that they are spectacular. Since DO isn't a surface treatment you are polishing the wood as much as the finish and it is much more forgiving.

[Bob Bouis]

I do wonder why no one makes a 6" mushroom buff.

BTW if you want to save a little money, you can get 4" mushroom buffs that fit in drill chucks for quite a bit less than the beall versions.