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Thread: Blade or table saw problem ?

  1. #16
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    Stopped at Harbor Freight on the way home this evening and used my 25% Super Coupon, good only until Sunday. The dial indicator did not clamp tightly to the mag base arm, but I fashioned a couple washers from some gasket material. That allowed the dial indicator to be fastened to the arm without moving.

    I measured the arbor flange run out about 3/32" to 1/8" from the outside edge of the flange. Super flat, less than .0002. Probably closer to .00012 ~ .00015. Hard to say with certainty as the dial indicator is marked only to .001.

    The blade is a different story. I did the measurements just below the bottom of the gullets with the blade raised to its highest position. I picked a random spot, marked it and zeroed the dial. I was getting variations from + .003 to - .005~6. In my opinion that is way too much for an expensive blade. Still not as much variation as I am getting in the throat plate. Can this blade flex upon start up ? I bought the blade earlier this year at the Tampa wood show and it has a thirty day return policy. So no sending it back. Can the blade be straightened ? Is it worth the money for shipping both ways and the charge to fix it ? I guess I will call Ridge Carbide and see what they say.

    I need to do the measurement on the teeth again. I was getting tired and sloppy, but the teeth edges are out also. Maybe due to the disk not being flat.

    I also took a bit of tension off the drive belt, it was really tight. I will try loosening it a bit more, as I think it is still tight enough that it will not slip while cutting wood.

  2. #17
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    So your saying the needle didn't move at all on the arbor flange? .0002 on an indicator that is graduated in .001 is going to be hardly a wiggle. I have difficulty believing the arbor is that perfect. Is this like your indicator?

  3. #18
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    Run out should be tested at speed. Bearing causes won't show up with hand turning. My worst 16" blades will typically make a kerf .004-.006 wider than the tooth so the runout is half of that. The flanges are 5" and ground so the deviation is all blade. Dave

  4. #19
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    Speed of sound is about 767 mph. Outer edge of 10 inch blade @3450 rpm travels at about 103 mph. Some 10 inch models have a blade speed faster than this, but none come close to the speed of sound. A 10 inch blade would have to spin over 25700 rpm for the outer edge to reach the speed of sound.

  5. #20
    The measurements are interesting but does anybody have a zero clearance insert they have used for awhile that shows NO areas where the teeth touched at startup or shutdown? Absolutely straight sides with no nicks? If you do, maybe not all saws do it. If there are no examples, then I think you have to just say this is normal. Magnitude maybe varies for the reasons discussed (blade looks a little suspect but I like Ridge for resharpening blades and I think they come back better than Freud made them).

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Neel View Post
    Speed of sound is about 767 mph. Outer edge of 10 inch blade @3450 rpm travels at about 103 mph. Some 10 inch models have a blade speed faster than this, but none come close to the speed of sound. A 10 inch blade would have to spin over 25700 rpm for the outer edge to reach the speed of sound.
    That is what I as saying earlier, the PM 2000 spins 4300 rpm but still in the 140 mph range.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Dwight View Post
    My saw is very different from yours, a BT3100, but it does this too. I think the blade goes through a harmonic during startup that causes the flutter. I haven't calculated the speed of the outer diameter but I think it's above the speed of sound. So it could just be passing through that. I don't think it's bearings or the blade. I suspect all saws do this. Bearings will not prevent all movement of the outer portion of the blade if the system vibrates. It only takes a split second to impact the zero clearance plate a tiny amount.

    My "solution" is to use one zero clearance plate for normal work where it isn't critical that it really have zero clearance and to use a new one for the rare situation where I really need it to have zero clearance. I make them of scrap so it isn't a big deal. (I use a zero clearance all the time after having a cutoff fall into the little belts of the BT3100 ruining them - they are a pain to change)
    I was thinking harmonic as well. Pretty good sized hunks of steel can flutter if the right things go wrong, I know of a solid steel shaft about 1/38" in diameter with high precision machining that if it runs for any period of time at certain RPMs will flutter and me$$ the bearings up. Actually that's more like me$$$$$ things up.

  8. #23
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    I've had 3 table saws & many blades & all have done that to some degree. Looks pretty normal to me.

  9. #24
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    Does every blade do this?
    Measure twice, cut three times, start over. Repeat as necessary.

  10. #25
    Yes you need to do measure the teeth. I don't think 5 thou is that bad for any ww'ing machine.

    Personally I wouldn't consider Rigdid a high quality blade.

    My suggestion is pop a Freud blade in there and see what you get.
    Last edited by Robert Engel; 12-10-2016 at 12:08 PM.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Dwight View Post
    The measurements are interesting but does anybody have a zero clearance insert they have used for awhile that shows NO areas where the teeth touched at startup or shutdown?
    I am interested in seeing answers to this. I have been wondering to myself if I am expecting too much from this new saw. It absolutely is leaps and bounds above my prior saw, a Bosch TS3000.

    Robert, This is not a Ridgid blade, rather a Ridge Carbide blade. Different companies and products.

    Greg, every blade that has ever been on the saw has done this. One blade is all that has ever been on this saw. I have a WWll on its way to me, but will not see it until next week. I have three Diablo blades hanging on the pegboard from my Bosch saw. They have a thinner kerf than the Ridge blade though and I currently have only one zero insert. If I was not playing on the computer I could be out in the shop making homemade throat plates right now to test other blades with. Maybe tomorrow morning. I have a 30 amp 220 circuit to run today for my yet to arrive dust collector.

  12. #27
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    I had a similar situation a few years ago with a new Freud Premier Fusion Blade (1/8 curf), but it would occur on deceleration, when the centrifugal switch closed and the motor decelerated abruptly. Talked with Freud and their response was that the anti-vibration technology slots are designed allow considerable lateral flexibility to the plate so it runs true at speed providing a polished cut by their improved tooth geometry. Freud exchanged the blade and the second one wasn't quite as bad.

  13. #28
    I have had a defective blade on a hand held saw that when it started to heat up, would behave like a wobble blade. I like the Tenryu blades from Carbide processors.

  14. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Hayward View Post
    A new PM2000 table saw, new Ridge Carbide 40 tooth blade and what was a new Powermatic zero clearance throat plate.

    Each time the saw is started I get a little flutter, waver or what ever you want to call it causing the fresh cut in the zero clearance plate to widen ever so slightly. The widest being wherever the blade teeth are, then tapering back to the normal 1/8" wide kerf closer to the arbor. The happens for only a split second then the blade runs smooth and true. The plate is being cut slightly less than a 1/32" wider at the teeth. Each time the blade position is changed the plate gets cut again upon startup.


    What are your thoughts, blade problem or PM2000 problem ? Or maybe normal ?
    I have a Ridge TS2000 blade that makes those widened kerfs, except it happens randomly while cutting wood. It even occurs on flat, smooth MDF which has no grain or internal tensions which could cause a blade to wander. Worst blade I ever bought.
    Even though many people recommend them, I won't based on my experience.

  15. #30
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    The WWll blade arrived with Mondays mail and I could not make the time Monday evening to put it on the saw. I did not have much more time this evening but did manage to put the blade on the saw, do a very quick run out check and another very quick run of the blade.

    From a low spot of -1 off reference to a high spot of slightly less than +3 for run out. Pretty good in my opinion, .004 variance. I put the chewed up zero clearance plate on, cranked the blade up and down while hand spinning the blade to check clearance against the Ridge blade kerf in the throat plate. No problems so I put the new blade in a fresh spot in the plate. Pushed the switch and got just a momentary whisper of a kiss against one side of the insert. Tried the same in two more fresh spots on the throat plate with the same results. I will do a more thorough test this weekend, but as far as I am concerned the verdict is in. The problem was the Ridge Carbide blade.

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