Shellac

[David Ragan]

Hi,

Am toying w shellac-superblonde dewaxed.

My current project, a small box turned out good, I suppose--my standards for a finish are probably low.

I have several questions:

1) Am using BORG DNA-good enough? If I get everclear or Bekhol , will that result in a harder finish? BORG DNA has too much water in it?
2) Instead of the oil-free steel wool 0000-is the superfine Mirlon pads good enough? I just did use this Mirlon, and it turned out OK.
3) does the processing to get superblonde dewaxed degrade your final product? I have read that the chemical processing of taking out the color results in shorter shelf life, or softer finish(?)
4) Also, I read that when I get it from the freezer, and open it w/o waiting for it to come to room temperature, all the ambient moisture condenses on my flakes---and-----that will degrade my finish. Do you all make/put dessicants in the container or let it sit out for hours to warm up before opening?

Thanks!

[Bill White]

I fully admit to using Seal Coat instead of flakes, and have had no probs using DNA from the borgs as a thinner.
There are the purists who might obsess on some of the shellac details, but I just can't quite imagine using quality Ever Clear as a thinner.

The condensation issue is WAY above my pay grade, but I'll betcha that the old masters didn't worry a great deal when mixing flakes.


I use non-woven pads often, and have had no issues.


Be safe.

[John TenEyck]

Same as Bill. I use Sealcoat and borg DNA. Never had a problem. Seal coat lasts at least 2 years and costs much less than 2 lbs of flakes and a gallon of DNA. When I want color I add Transtint dye to it.

John

[Prashun Patel]

I think you found the three unabashed sealcoat users here on smc. It works for me well.

[Jim Becker]

Make that three Sealcoat users. It's actually good stuff. Brushes well and sprays beautifully right out of the container with my HPLV conversion gun. I'd use flakes if I needed something different, particularly in darker colors, but for general shellac sealing and/or finishing...Sealcoat gets the nod from me. For small projects, the spray-bomb cans are also useful and economical.

[David Ragan]

Well, let's hear it for modern industry.

If I want to have a go @ FP, then the flake/DNA route is the way to go, right?

[John TenEyck]

Well, let's hear it for modern industry.

If I want to have a go @ FP, then the flake/DNA route is the way to go, right?

Sealcoat is shellac. You French polish with shellac. ......

John

[Jon Nuckles]

One more person who uses Sealcoat without shame, even for a french polish.

[Jim Becker]

Yup...Sealcoat is just pre-dissolved de-waxed "blond" shellac...

[Frederick Skelly]

Another for Sealcoat. Onnly difference is I buy DNA at the paint store because that's convenient for me.

I have the impression some people go for everclear, not for better results, but more to reduce exposure to whatever toxins are in DNA. Not sure how thats different/better than wearing glove, but I havent researched it at all.

Glad to see you posting David! Give my regards to Mr. Bathurst if you see him!
Fred

[Alan Lightstone]

I think Woodcraft now sells DNA that's a much greater percentage of ethanol, and less methanol. I got mine on Amazon.

Look for Kleen Strip Green DNA. Works great with shellac. I haven't seen it in BORGs anymore. The BORG DNA is getting more and more methanol percentage every year.

[David Ragan]

So-the methanol is bad news w the visual toxicity. Skin absorption, inhalation.

I just checked the price of Everclear. 190 proof, 95% 1.75 L is $40. I guess the other 5% is water.

That would be $80 a gallon. Gulp. (figuratively)

In regards to 0000 steel wool v Mirlon super fine-is there any advantage to either one besides that the steel wool is cheaper?

Can you rejuvenate Mirlon pads by washing them?

[glenn bradley]

I lost count so I will just say I am another person who has used Seal Coat for over a decade and have no desire to change when a "clear" shellac finish is what I'm after. Not-so-hidden benefits are use as a sealer, blotch control, tints well with Transtint dyes for coloration, 3 year shelf life, sealer between incompatible or questionable materials, etc.

I keep three cuts in squirt bottles; a light cut (2:1 DNA:shellac out of the can) for sealing and general tasks, a "thicker" (1:1) cut for most of my use and a full strength (2lb cut) when I want more body so I can work the shellac during application. the BORG DNA I use is KleanStrip. Even the "green" KleanStrip is 80 -90% ethanol.

The only reverse-problem I have had with Seal Coat is shelf life . . . it lasts so long you can keep it long enough to have the water in the DNA cause the can liner to fail. Normally I consume it at a steady rate but, there was this can at the back . . . BTW, Zinsser replaced the can without question when I emailed them. I now transfer my Seal Coat to glass containers . . . only to protect myself from myself ;-)

[Prashun Patel]

David,
Steel wool can leave tiny shards that require careful dusting if you are putting anything on top of the shellac besides wax.
Have not used Mirlon, but I have not had good luck with similar synthetic type pads. For me, they are either too aggressive or not aggressive enough. I have never been able to make the 'white' pads work well.
I suggest that you throw Abralon pads into consideration. These are fine abrasive ROS pads that have a foam backer. They are extremely durable and reusable if you treat and lube them properly. I use these by hand and with 5" and 3" ROS's. They're versatile and polish extremely well.

[John TenEyck]

Glenn, I've had pin holing of the can happen on a nearly new, full can of Sealcoat (based on manufacturing code). I don't think water is the problem, unless it was in the can when manufactured, or maybe there is more than one failure mechanism. Now I keep my cans in a plastic bucket, just in case.

John