How to secure 2x4's onto block-foundation wall for a cantilever lumber rack?

[Minh Tran]

I would like to build and install a cantilever lumber rack similar to the one in Fig 1 (attached), except made out of 2x4's. Fig 2. is a photograph indicating where I would to install the rack.

Though I doubt I'll weaken the wall by drilling a couple of holes into it, I just wanted to check that it is safe to do so. Additionally, I'd like some advice on the type of fasteners I should use to temporarily (but securely) attach the vertical 2x4s onto the wall. I was thinking of using Tapcom screws.

Fig. 1
Fig1.jpg

Fig. 2
IMG_3940.jpg

[Rick Moyer]

I would consider wedge anchors, or more likely sleeve anchors for a block wall. Also, can you fasten the vertical boards to a ceiling joist or sill plate too?

[Andrew Kertesz]

Based on the picture and the joints of the block it looks like you may have issues with water. If so I would address those problems first, the joints are darker which to me indicates they are wet... Just my .02 cents.

[Larry Frank]

I would anchor the uprights on the ceiling joists and the bottoms on the floor.

If the wall has significant water or seepage issues, I would not want to anchor to it.

[Bill Adamsen]

Putting anchors into a concrete block wall in what is essentially "tension" would likely limit the loading of the rack to below the manufacturer's spec (the Portamate is 110# per level). If there is a foundation sill plate on top of the wall could that be used with a long joist hangar to mount a 2X (braced against the floor) onto which the rack could be mounted? Or the 2X could be through bolted on the foundation wall depending on what is on the other side.

[Robert Hayward]

Yes, you can use Tapcons to anchor a 2X4 to a masonry wall. That is one of the things a Tapcon was designed to do. How many and what size to use can be found on a Tapcon box, or it used to be there. I have used thousands of Tapcons to anchor various things to concrete and block walls.

I would be more concerned about how you plan to make the connection for the arm to the wall mounted upright.

[Bill Space]

I would anchor the uprights on the ceiling joists and the bottoms on the floor.

If the wall has significant water or seepage issues, I would not want to anchor to it.

X2 on this..

Anchor or the uprights to the floor joists above the basement floor.

You hardly have to worry about anchoring the bottoms of the uprights, as the weight of the stored wood will tend to push the bottoms of the uprights against the block wall. A 2x4 across he bottom of the uprights will be enough to keep them in position laterally.

I could not really tell from your picture but it looks like you should be able to attach the uprights to the floor joists above. If not, disregard this post!

[Minh Tran]

There are meshes of wires running perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Also, the joists are pretty old and flakey (I'm living in an old apartment) so I'm reluctant to put any load on them. There isn't a foundation sill in sight and the basement is below-ground.

The water damage was from 2 summers ago where it rained particularly hard for a week straight and some flooding occurred (a side effect of a hurricane passing by some 200 mi off-shore). The water now normally doesn't penetrate the walls when it rains. I'd re-paint the basement but then I'd just incite a family discussion on why "it's a waste of time and money because it's not our house".

@Robert The arm will measure 2'. I'm thinking dados (+Glue and a counter-sunken lag screw from the back into the arm).

[Andrew Kertesz]

That may answer your question: if it's not your house would your landlord be OK with anchoring something in the block wall?

[Minh Tran]

That may answer your question: if it's not your house would your landlord be OK with anchoring something in the block wall?

He's ok with it so long as the thing to be fastened can be removed if necessary (he's ok with a permanently embedded fastener). He thinks if the wood rots, the next tenant shouldn't have to struggle dealing with it -- a reasonable stipulation.

I think I'll build a framed and carted lumber storage rack out of 2Xs. That'll offer the most flexibility.

Switching gears: I would like to fasten a sheet of 4'x8' 3/4" plywood onto the block wall so I can build a tool rack onto it using french cleats or screws. Is there an embedded fastener for this that will allow me to replace the plywood if it gets damaged or something?

[Tony Leonard]

For the plywood, I would offset it from the wall by attaching blocks every couple of feet or so using the Tapcons, then attach the plywood to the blocks. That gives you good circulation behind the wood, an easy way to mount or dismount the plywood, etc. Just a thought. Lots of ways to do this.

For reference, I made a 2x4 wall with feet and attached diagonals from the top of the wall to the outer edge of the feet on each end (feet were around 24"). This wall stands on its own and has shelves that are around 18" deep. No attachments to the wall. It is pretty well loaded with lumber and has been for years. It was cheap and easy to build. I laid 1/2" plywood across the shelf supports. Sorry, no pic with me. A cart would be nice for project pieces. I wish I had the floor space for something like that. My shop is 16x20 and there is not much floor left!

I'd slap a quick coat of paint on the walls if you plan on spending much time down there! It'll make you feel better!


Good luck with your shop.

Tony