Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Small sideboard beading and molding design

  1. #1

    Small sideboard beading and molding design

    Hello,

    I am in the middle of making a small walnut sideboard for an entry way. I have the basic case made and I am to the point now where I am trying to figure out what beading and molding pieces would look good on the cabinet. I really need to figure this out first before going much further with the case and drawer systems, as the beading in particular changes the door and drawer openings.

    Currently nothing is glued up, so some of the pieces have gaps and don't fit quite right. I put the door pieces together with blue tape and made some test bead strips and a few moldings to see what it would look like.

    With the current photos I am thinking that the foot at the base of the leg is not quite tall enough and possibly too wide. I also am not sure about the cove and bead molding going horizontally around the bottom of the entire piece in the third photo and if that should be removed as it is in the second photo. I have a sample bead at the bottom and top of the lower rail and beading that would go around the door opening. I think this would look good, but I think the bead that runs vertically could use a small flat section between the bead and the leg. The one molding I am sure I like is the one at the top of the piece that would sit directly below the top.

    Any thoughts or suggestions would be great!

    Thanks,
    Dan.

    Sideboard Case.jpgBottom without bead and cove.jpgBottom with bead and cove.jpgTop.jpg

  2. #2
    I don't like the third photo bead on top of a good bead and cove moulding, bead and cove alone would be better. The foot treatment is a Marlbourough foot and you can use google pics to see lots of examples to compare with what you have now. The treatment under the top has too many small parts too show up well. I will enjoy following the project.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    2,162
    All the ideas are good except for the foot. Some form of shaping is good but it needs to get finer at floor level. Great work. Pics when it is finished? Cheers

  4. #4
    Thanks for the reply. I looked into the marlbourough foot design, but couldn't find much that didn't have fluted legs, which I don't want on this piece. The only other search that came up with some ideas was "block foot" I think slightly taller and thinner will work for this.

    I think the treatment at the top also needs a half round routed into the bottom of the top to make treatment at the top more visible.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Lomman View Post
    All the ideas are good except for the foot. Some form of shaping is good but it needs to get finer at floor level. Great work. Pics when it is finished? Cheers
    Perhaps a slight taper in at the bottom.

  6. #6
    Got a bit further on this project. Added the top molding along with the top, added all of the beading on the case, and added the two drawers. I still cannot decide on the foot design, or perhaps to go with no feet at all and just leave it as is?

    Something is still off to me, as far as the middle drawer goes. I wonder if the panel section of the drawer needs to be larger so that the rail and stile of the drawer front are smaller or closer to the size of the rail and stile that the top drawer has. I'm sure there is a rule of thumb with sizing, such as the panel needs to be equal to or taller than the combined width of the top and bottom rail?

    DSC_1802 (Medium).jpgDSC_1805 (Medium).jpgDSC_1801 (Medium).jpg

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •