Stanley #79 Side Rebate Plane.

[Stewie Simpson]

Its been a while since I have had to use this plane, but when the job requires it, its a handy tool to have at your disposal.

As you can see from the following 2 photo's mine requires a bit of a clean-up and resharpen, to bring it back to a serviceable condition.





After being soaked in a bath of Evapo-Rust for 24hrs. All parts were then cleaned down with WD-40 to nuetralize any further reaction from the R-S, before being re-assembled. The leading skew angle on both the blades were slightly out of spec, so they received a light grinding, before the cutting edges were honed to a very sharp edge.



For demonstration purposes on how to use a Stanley #79, I chose a short length of hardwood that I had previously worked a 1/4" groove on using my Record 043 Plough Plane.



Putting aside any controversy on how to use a Stanley #79, I will just forward the way I was taught to use it. If that doesn't seek favour, then use what ever method chooses your fancy.

To increase the width of the groove from 1/4" to 3/8", 1st I scribe a line to the required distance. The direction of the long grain is then accessed, and the appropriate blade is then adjusted to the required depth of cut and tightened into position. Check to insure the spare cutter is fully retracted, then adjust the depth fence to the correct height and tighten in position. To commence the cut is no different to using the Record #043, you start from the far end of the groove, and work your way back, repeating the same process until you have reached your targeted scribe mark, along the full length of groove. My personally preference is to adjust the cutter for the final pass, taking a full length light shaving. After widening the groove (or rebate, or rabbet, whatever takes your fancy) the bottom floor may need a light clean out with a hand router.



Hopefully someone found this information of relevant value.

regards Stewie;

[Bill Houghton]

Thanks. I own one but haven't yet had occasion to use it; your tutorial was helpful.

[Curt Putnam]

+ 1 .

[Phil Mueller]

Thank you posting this, Stewie. Wasn't familiar with this plane. With the opposing cutters, I assume it can be used left or right handed, however, I can't see how that would be done. I guess I can't tell how the piece holding the cutters can be positioned with the guide bars/"handle" piece to be used in either direction.

[Stewie Simpson]

As to the easiest method to correct an out of alignment skew angle on both blades; 1st remove the depth stop and both blades, on the underside of the blades mark an area close to the cutting edge with a dykem or permanent marking pen, slide the blades back into position and tighten with cutting edges fully exposed, use a small 90 degree engineers square and scribe mark the return angle on the back of the blades nearest to the cutting edge with the rest side of the square hard up against the bottom skate of the plane, remove both blades and grind a new fresh skew angle to match the scribe-d lines, if you have an adequate set up on your grinders tool rests you can reduce the time taken on the honing stones, finish off the sharpening process by honing the blades to a very sharp cutting edge, re-install both blades and depth stop.

Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

Thank you posting this, Stewie. Wasn't familiar with this plane. With the opposing cutters, I assume it can be used left or right handed, however, I can't see how that would be done. I guess I can't tell how the piece holding the cutters can be positioned with the guide bars/"handle" piece to be used in either direction.

Phil; does this photo help answer your question;

[Jim Koepke]

My #79 was sold a few years ago. It was a good user, but having a #98 & #99 made it an extra tool that mostly sat unused.

Most of the time my side rabbet planes are used to clean up the edges of a slot, rabbet or quirk from a molding plane. They are a handy addition to the tool chest for such.

jtk

[Greg Krummel]

As a tip for anyone who finds one in good condition but missing the depth adjustment and back screws, they are both pretty reasonable to remake with the right tools. The fence is a punched and bent sheet steel form, and I remade mine out of a small sheet of 14 gauge aluminum to make it easier to form. You can also make other angled fences for different trimming purposes (I made a 45 degree fence for trimming an undercut).

The screws are bit more difficult to replace since they require lathe time, and the thread is a Unified Special thread (#10-28). Thankfully a few die manufacturers still make that thread size (how I made mine), and the blade holder screws are the same thread size as the fence screws (so they can be interchanged).

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I'm not sure about the original fence, but I found sometimes the new fences slipped under the new smooth screws. Adding a matching rubber washer under the screw head helps give a little more hold.

[Stewie Simpson]

My #79 was sold a few years ago. It was a good user, but having a #98 & #99 made it an extra tool that mostly sat unused.

Most of the time my side rabbet planes are used to clean up the edges of a slot, rabbet or quirk from a molding plane. They are a handy addition to the tool chest for such.

jtk

Jim; all good your personal choice of side rebate plane, but this thread is focused on the #79.

regards Stewie;

[Phil Mueller]

Sorry, Stewie, I get it. I reread your post more carefully...I was misinterpreting the photo of the Record 043 thinking it was somehow a part of that...

So the depth guage assists in depth, of course. The distance from the edge is either first established with the 043, then widened free hand...or without the 043, the entire groove is just free handed between scribe lines. Is that correct?

[Stewie Simpson]

Phil; the initial groove was completed using the Record 043 plough plane, fitted with the 1/4" wide blade. (4th photo) In the example shown I have described the process of increasing the width of that groove from 1/4" to a slightly wider 3/8". That was achieved using the Stanley #79 side rebate plane. (5th photo) No attempt was made to deepen the existing groove.

regards Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

Phil; lets go with another example of when the #79 side rebate plane comes in handy. Your making up a sliding draw for a piece of furniture. You have the front, back, and both side boards cut to length, and have just added a bottom groove on each of those boards to receive the plywood bottom. When you test fit the plywood bottom you realize you haven't allowed enough room within the grooves width to allow for later expansion. Your next course of action is to increase the width of those grooves slightly using the #79 side rebate plane.

Stewie;

[Phil Mueller]

That woud have come in very handy with a recent box project...thank you. Given what I had, I slightly adjusted the guide for my router plane...but the #79 would have been the better/quicker solution.

[Stewie Simpson]

Phil; good to hear.

regards Stewie;

[Jim Koepke]

Jim; all good your personal choice of side rebate plane, but this thread is focused on the #79.

regards Stewie;

Okay...

That was achieved using the Stanley #78 side rebate plane.

regards Stewie;

#78

jtk