water trap

[steve tomaselli]

Hi all, I am thinking of purchasing the hvlp woodriver brand gravity feed spray gun that Charles Neil recommends for spraying some target coatings em 6000 water based lacquer.My question is I don't have a water trap on my compressor and was wanting to know if I should get an in line filter or a filter that goes by the regulator on the compressor. Thanks

[John K Jordan]

Hi all, I am thinking of purchasing the hvlp woodriver brand gravity feed spray gun that Charles Neil recommends for spraying some target coatings em 6000 water based lacquer.My question is I don't have a water trap on my compressor and was wanting to know if I should get an in line filter or a filter that goes by the regulator on the compressor. Thanks

To trap water in the air it first needs to condense. Water is typically a gas when it exits the compressor and changes to a liquid as it cools. Because of this it is best to put a centrifugal water separator (the small cheap ones sold at retail stores) as far from the compressor as possible, something like 20 ft. When I first installed my air compressor I put a water separator just a few feet from the tank and guess what, it never collected any water!

However, for dry air I think it is best to use a desiccant "filter" that actually removes moisture from the air. It will remove both liquid and water vapor. I bought one through Amazon. The cartridges are expensive but I found I can take them apart and dry the desiccant beads to "recharge."

All of my shop air passes through a gravity water trap i made, a centrifugal water water separator, then the large cartridge type desiccant dryer. In addition, when I use my plasma cutter I use a small disposable in-line desiccant dryer right at the machine since plasma cutters really like dry air.

I don't spray finishes and have no idea about how much moisture in the air your water-based lacquer will tolerate. Perhaps you could try a test between straight air, air through a water separator, and air passed through an in-line desiccant filter. I bought some of these at Northern Tool.

JKJ

[Wayne Lomman]

Steve, all you will need is a simple in line water trap. Fit it just after the regulator at your compressor. It will easily do what you need and will cost maybe $20. If it is humid, drain it more often. This is sufficient even for 2 pack polyurethane and epoxy coatings. Water-borne coatings are definitely no problem. Cheers

[Bill White]

One more plus for Wayne.
I do use a water filter on line with my guns, but find it very important to drain the comp. tank often.
My compressor is a 37 year old C'man oiled unit, and I've used it with both types of guns (pressure and siphon).
Keeping the lines and the tank clean are a major secret.
Even the HF HPLV stupid gun works if the regulator and gun are set correctly.
Bill

[Brian W Smith]

You didn't mention the size of the compressor/tank volume.

A larger 60-80g will spray a LOT without much run time.Vs a smaller unit.The more the run time,the more you have to deal with heat,and subsequent "mayonnaise"....which is water and oil(blow by) emulsion.The latter obviously dependent on comp condition.

Just for giggles,Google Franzinator.Yes,they work...heck,ours took it to the next,logical,step,and is water cooled.The reading you do should clear up some questions on not only where and how mayonnaise forms but,"why" it(Franzinator) is located.

You can also make desiccant dryers with cheapy cat litter.I forget the brand,too lazy to go look....but it gets thrown in the oven once saturated.Here,you can also look at how household water filters work for further study.

"Fruitjar" style traps are useless anywhere near the compressor....they need to be well down stream from the heat.

Also look/search,"air polishers".These are used down stream of tank.