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Thread: First and last table saw

  1. #1

    First and last table saw

    I'm looking to buy my first cabinet saw after getting by with a portable contractor saw for several years. I am on a budget but I want a quality saw that can last me the next 20 years. So far I've found the following three choices:

    new 3hp Delta unisaw w/52in fence $2,450
    new (floor model) 3hp Powermatic w/50in fence $2,700
    new 3hp sawstop w/52in fence $2,999

    I like the idea of the safety feature on the sawstop but obviously it comes at almost a $600 premium. I spent 3 years working on a cabinet saw in school that had neither the sawstop safety stop or even a riving knife so obviously it isn't a necessity if you take the proper precautions. What would you guys do? If anyone knows where I could find a better deal on that same sawstop I would love to go that route. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    I have a 3hp Unisaw I bought new in '98-'99. It has been a joy to use. That said, if I were shopping today, without question I would buy the SawStop.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    I would opt for the Sawstop if I were to buy a cabinet saw.

    I agree that you can mitigate most of the dangers on a saw, however for $30 a year it would be prudent insurance, in addition it's a good quality saw.

    I would opt however for the Hammer K3 saw, far safer and more capable than a cabinet saw.............Rod.

  4. #4
    The Sawstop contains the hidden costs of the brakes. If you plan on doing dados on your table saw, you will have to change your brake also. In addition, every time it fires, it's $70 for a new brake and $x for a new blade. Mine has fired twice because I was careless in keeping my miter gauge clear of the blade.

    I do like the riving knife and blade guard and find them convenient to use. The dust collection is pretty good on the sawstop.

  5. #5
    If the premium is only $600, I wouldn't hesitate to get the SawStop.

    In fact I almost laid down that much cash for a SawStop. However I didn't know how committed I was to woodworking, and ended up starting out with the Home Depot R4512 hybrid saw for $500 (which I'm quite happy with). But if I had a dedicated shop and was committed, I wouldn't hesitate for a SawStop.

    If SawStop offered something like the R4512 for $1600, I would immediately go buy one.
    Last edited by Roger Marty; 12-19-2016 at 9:42 PM.

  6. #6
    Find a used Northfield or Tannewitz. Northfields can be found in good condition for less than $1500 on the regular. You'll have a quality saw compared to the mediocre saws available.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Shenandoah Valley in Virginia
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    Recommend looking for an older Delta Unisaw or Powermatic 66... either one in decent shape will last another 25 years at least for a home shop...
    A great place to buy one is either from school auctions or someone who buys them from school or government auctions...

    I found out that most of the time it pays to buy older American made power tools (especially a tablesaw) than a newer one..

    Plus price is more reasonable and you can use savings to buy more tools...

    ((and NO I do not sell tools))

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Anyone who does not recommend the SawStop has never been to the Emergency Room after a table saw injury. The SawStop is not only a magnificent, quality saw it will keep you safe when you need it. That alone is more than worth the $600. IMO it is a no brainer.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    [QUOTE=Robert Chapman;2636106]Anyone who does not recommend the SawStop has never been to the Emergency Room after a table saw injury. The SawStop is not only a magnificent, quality saw it will keep you safe when you need it. That alone is more than worth the $600. IMO it is a no brainer.[/

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    You are absolutely right Robert, I have never been to the emergency room after a table saw injury. And no I don't own and never will own a SawStop. I have two Unisaws in my shop and have been using them and contractor saws for about 35 years. I had the benefit of a great shop teacher who taught me how to use machinery correctly and safely. If I were ever to buy another saw the only thing different that I would buy would be a slider. I would follow Ed's advice to start, or save my pesos for a slider.

  11. #11
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    Try to find some info on sliders before you pull the trigger, here on SMC, YouTube, the web in general, Grizzly, Hammer, Felder, MiniMax...
    As Rod has already said, they are safer and more capable than a cabinet saw.
    If you don't want to go there be ready to order a regular and a dado cartridge as spare for the SS if that is your choice, which will add to the initial investment.
    Politics aside, a SawStop can only protect from blade injuries if the feature has not been turned off and will never protect from kickback better than any other tablesaw, but a slider will because it'd be awkward standing in front of the blade and your hands should never be near the blade - period.

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    Among the options you have listed Sawstop is a clear cut to me.
    A slider is a different class of saw and they (quality ones) start at almost twice of your budget.
    I wouldn't buy anything from Delta as their parts/service seems non-existence fro what I read/hear.

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    Of the three choices listed, I would go with the SawStop, in point of fact, I DID go with a SawStop 3hp PCS.
    It came to pass...
    "Curiosity is the ultimate power tool." - Roy Underhill
    The road IS the destination.

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Chapman View Post
    Anyone who does not recommend the SawStop has never been to the Emergency Room after a table saw injury. The SawStop is not only a magnificent, quality saw it will keep you safe when you need it. That alone is more than worth the $600. IMO it is a no brainer.
    I went to the emergency room for a table saw accident that a saw stop would not have avoided. It was a kick back that even a riving knife would not have avoided either. had to have 9 stitches in the palm

  15. #15
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    After looking at Powermatic, Delta and other competing products I picked the Saw Stop regardless of the safety mechanism. You can certainly fire the safety mechanism by accident and that is a non-zero cost lesson. There is a bypass mode that allows you to test any questionable process to see if an activation will occur. This testing method was no help with my bonehead move of trying to saw some conductive (anti-static) UHMW material. However, I am much more aware now of what I am cutting and how ;-)

    I am a Beisemeyer fan from way back but, have to say that the Saw Stop fence is quite nice. The ease of access to aligning or changing the fence faces is a far cry from ripping the faces off of a Beis. I run an Incra miter gauge with an aluminum fence, a cast iron tenon jig and all sorts of things without issue which I hear some folks express concerns about.

    The overarm dust collection works but, is not super exciting. A larger air flow would be an improvement BUT, it is so easy to put on and off that I actually use it. I was definitely guilty of not fussing with some of the guards on previous saws as they were just a pain. Overall I am very happy and would buy one again in a heartbeat.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

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