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Thread: Table saw accessories

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Jonesborough, TN
    Posts
    70
    I have been cleaning up my old saw. Got the table smooth, but haven't gotten the stains out yet. I will try some of the suggestions above. Also cleaned off the blade, as it had residue from cutting vinyl siding on it.
    I took out the table insert and was surprised at how thin it is. While reading up on Zero Clearance Inserts(ZCI), most cut them out of thin ply and run the saw blade up through them. My OEM insert measures .091" with a micrometer. What do you use that is that thin?

    Chuck

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Pickering View Post
    I have been cleaning up my old saw. Got the table smooth, but haven't gotten the stains out yet. I will try some of the suggestions above. Also cleaned off the blade, as it had residue from cutting vinyl siding on it.
    I took out the table insert and was surprised at how thin it is. While reading up on Zero Clearance Inserts(ZCI), most cut them out of thin ply and run the saw blade up through them. My OEM insert measures .091" with a micrometer. What do you use that is that thin?

    Chuck
    There should be set screws to help level the insert to the table top. Measure the depth of the recess and it is identical to the thickness of Luan underlayment. Cut an oval of Luan and then determine where the blade will cut up through it. Then glue a rib of wood (3/4" square) to the right of the blade slot to give support to the Luan once you cut through it. Depending on your metal working skills you can make a better insert like this.
    Lee Schierer - McKean, PA

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  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Jonesborough, TN
    Posts
    70
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    There should be set screws to help level the insert to the table top. Measure the depth of the recess and it is identical to the thickness of Luan underlayment. Cut an oval of Luan and then determine where the blade will cut up through it. Then glue a rib of wood (3/4" square) to the right of the blade slot to give support to the Luan once you cut through it. Depending on your metal working skills you can make a better insert like this.
    I've read and re-read that thread, Lee. I just may have to try that. Wish I had your friends... I have the insert out and tomorrow I'll try making a pattern of the inside of the step. May try making one from ply and som material I have left from making a backsplash fir my cooktop.

    Chuck

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Oakley, CA
    Posts
    250
    Regarding home made PALS, I saw a picture of a set and know I could make one fairly easily. I don't remember the specifics, but I had a piece of 1" angle iron 3/16" inch thick. I just cut pieces about 1/2" wide, drilled a hole in one of the sides for the bolts that mount the table top, drilled and taped a hole on the other side for the alignment bolt. I can't remember for certain, but I think I also had to slightly modify some standard bolts to use them for the alignment bolts. It wasn't that difficult to make them.


    Wayne

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Jonesborough, TN
    Posts
    70
    I found the piece of Formica I had, but it's too thin to make the throat plate from by itself. Still looking. Might use one of the Dado plates to make a ZCI by gluing some ply to the bottom.

    Chuck

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Pickering View Post
    I have been cleaning up my old saw. Got the table smooth, but haven't gotten the stains out yet. I will try some of the suggestions above. Also cleaned off the blade, as it had residue from cutting vinyl siding on it.
    I took out the table insert and was surprised at how thin it is. While reading up on Zero Clearance Inserts(ZCI), most cut them out of thin ply and run the saw blade up through them. My OEM insert measures .091" with a micrometer. What do you use that is that thin?

    Chuck
    My C-man 113. saw also had this thin insert. I just used 1/2" BB ply and rabbeted around the outer edge to create a lip of the appropriate thickness. I needed the thick plate to support the MicroJig MJ Splitter I used for this saw. The thickness also allowed me to put a cut off 8d nail in the tail to emulate the spring on the original. I also used a little leftover material as a beaver tail. Both methods worked fine.

    ZCI-2009-004.jpg
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