Hmmm, might have goofed?

[steven c newman]

In the course of rehabbing a very stubborn Fulton #3 ( nee Sargent 408) I maybe have ground the wrong bevel. Was having trouble, getting a nice square to the sides, edge. Turned on the grinder and had a tub of water handy.....Forgot to recheck the angle set on the tool rest. Turned out to be....~ 35 degrees....

Oil stones and 1.5K wet&dry paper. Back was flat and mirror bright. Got the chipbreaker to FINALLY sit there without a gap....yep, miracles do happen.

Set the chipbreaker back from the edge about~1mm or so. Set up a White oak test track...
test track.jpg
Hmmm, got the grain running the wrong way....oh well, try to plane it anyway..
test cut.jpg
White Oak shavings seem to always look like ribbons to me. That test track above? Photo was taken after a few test runs of the plane. Zero chatter, zero tear out

So, things I might have done wrong? Bevel angle @ 35 degrees, did not use a ruler trick ( no ruler on hand) did not strop the edge. And..plane against the grain.
Did I goof?

[Jim Koepke]

A 35º bevel still gives an adequate clearance for most work.

My recollection is Oak is what is called an open grained wood. There is space between some of the cellular structures. That is what gives the ribbon like appearance. When ribbons start to appear on pine, it is usually time to sharpen the blade.

jtk

[bridger berdel]

35 degrees primary is pushing it on a 45 degree plane to have enough clearance angle left after honing. that *might* be a part of your problem.

turn the board around and try the other direction, you silly boy.

[James Pallas]

Steven, You have way too much fun. At your age you should not be showing off in such a fashion.
Jim

[Pat Barry]

Aren't you supposed to be resting your knee? Up and down those stairs probably not what the doctor ordered.

[steven c newman]

I figure one trip each way per day....and call it PT for the knee. Takes awhile, going one step at a time...

[Stewie Simpson]

Steven; a couple of comments. The 35 degree ground bevel shouldn't account for any reduction in tear-out, but is likely to add some improvement with longevity of the cutting edge. The cap iron clearance set at around 0.8 - 1mm falls within my own findings on what's required to control tear-out, but doesn't lessen the need to follow traditional practice of checking the grain direction prior to work commencing.

regards Stewie;

[steven c newman]

When I turned the board around, the grain was running downhill away from me.....wound up turning the board over..
IMAG0002.jpg
Found a big, old knot, too. I then tried a pine board..
IMAG0004.jpg
And got rid of most of the saw marks.
We'll see how the edge lasts, as I have a bunch of resaw boards coming up.....

[Patrick Chase]

So, things I might have done wrong? Bevel angle @ 35 degrees, did not use a ruler trick ( no ruler on hand) did not strop the edge. And..plane against the grain.
Did I goof?

I think your only "goof" here is to reignite the eternal "clearance angle" flame.

IMO 10 deg of clearance is plenty for a harder wood like White Oak, assuming that 35 is the edge bevel at the tip and that you didn't add much more while honing the secondary (if any).

[steven c newman]

I don't use secondary bevels, have a hard enough time getting a decent single bevel. Back is flat, and mirror shine. Finally got the edge square to the sides. Will keep an eye on how well it holds up during the next project. Bevel is flat all the way to the edge.