Lens/Mirror

[Bill George]

The K40 either being sold as a K40 or Micro mark uses the cheapest components they can find.

[Bert Kemp]

Mark I know you already have this laser, and you think putting ,mirrors, lens, control brd and the like will make it better and yes it will but its a never ending money pit. Next will be the cheap rubber rollers will start to wear and that will cause problems that you will wonder whats going on, then the belts wear our it goes on and on and on. By time your done you ave 5 or 6 k in it and it still isn't as good as a Chinese import for 3 K. Sorry I keep telling you this but I'm just trying to get you to give up that micromark and get a real laser you'll be so much happier and the money you spend on it only hurts till your lasering away pain free .lol. Trust me I know. I cringed when I spent the money for my rabbit, more so then most cause it doesn't make me any money. But it runs and I don't have to spending money fixing it all the time. Sell this one on CL for what ever you can get then add a few bucks and get something half way decent.

[Mark Taylor2]

Kev,
The first picture was an overhead shot as straight down as I could get it. The mirror was removed to see the burn spot which is at the 2 o'clock position in the tube.

Bert,
I know deep down inside that you are right. I'm considering that as a possibility. Just need to figure this out for the knowledge and so whoever I sell it too, doesn't give me grief that it's not working properly.


Currently, I found the adjustments for the mirror/laser carriage. Every screw was loose. I've re-tightened them and checked, double-checked everything to get things square. It appears that the mirror needs shimming, but with the de-lamination on it, I'm holding for now. I think I need a few beers and consider what's the best way to shim and also to consider Bert's suggestion.

[David Somers]

Mark,

It is hard to tell, but my eye brows go way up when you say the mirror needs shimming. That suggests things are not just off, but wayyyyyyyyy off and you need to go back to square one. and if you do have a mirror that is delaminated there is no sense fussing until you replace it. That is like putting a brand new tire on a car whose wheel alignment is way out. Pretty fruitless.

I think someone earlier suggested the Rabbitlaserusa.com web site (Ray Scott) for a good explanation of aligning your mirrors from laser tube on to the cone. all you need is some masking tape to do it. Since it is an inexpensive laser, Once that is done I would check to be sure your table surface is on a plane that is parallel to the XY axis. And I do mean it needs to be on the money if you are going to get consistent cutting from every corner of the machine. The focus on any laser is VERY shallow and it doesnt take the table being off by a smidgeon to affect things adversely and drive you crazy. (I love the word Smidgeon!! Dont know why!! <grin>)

Dave

[Mark Taylor2]

I've been listening to the sage advice here and reading other related topics. What struck me was Dave's comment about "level" on the machine itself. I have the laser on a Skill folding work table.. one of those plastic/metal things and my curiosity kicked in. I leveled the machine when I first set it up. Rechecking everything from the chassis up says "not anymore". I dug out a piece of 3/4" MDF particle board and set it on the table and then reset the machine on it. It's now level from bottom to top and all the internal spots I can find to set a bubble level on. Hmm... <facepalms> I'll let thing sit overnight before going any further with the tape/cash register paper alignment checks. I have learned through experience to wait 24 hours after resetting anything (taking things out of jigs is most notorious for me) to let things settle a bit.

[David Somers]

Mark,

The key isn't so much that it is level as it is that your honeycomb surface is absolutely on the same plane as the XY axis of your gantry. Though certainly having the machine itself on the level is helpful. Annoying to have things rolling down hill all the time! <grin> If the honeycomb is not on the same plane as the gantry then your point of focus will vary from corner to corner to corner and you will get variable performance all over the table. A small amount makes a BIG difference. The depth of field on a 2" lens is very small.

[Gary Hair]

I've been listening to the sage advice here and reading other related topics. What struck me was Dave's comment about "level" on the machine itself. I have the laser on a Skill folding work table.. one of those plastic/metal things and my curiosity kicked in. I leveled the machine when I first set it up. Rechecking everything from the chassis up says "not anymore". I dug out a piece of 3/4" MDF particle board and set it on the table and then reset the machine on it. It's now level from bottom to top and all the internal spots I can find to set a bubble level on. Hmm... <facepalms> I'll let thing sit overnight before going any further with the tape/cash register paper alignment checks. I have learned through experience to wait 24 hours after resetting anything (taking things out of jigs is most notorious for me) to let things settle a bit.

What you actually need to do is to ensure the distance from the lens to the bed is the same across the entire bed - that is what most people refer to when they ask if your bed is level - but it's actually parallel and has nothing to do with level. My guess is the first person to use the term "level" didn't know how to describe it correctly and thought "level" sounded right... If the laser is sitting at an obvious angle then it could be an issue, but otherwise it just needs to be on a flat, secure, fairly level, surface, but it's certainly not that critical to get any part of it level.

[Kev Williams]

You could mount the laser from the rafters in your garage and get the laser to work perfectly, as all the mirrors can be adjusted to make the beam hit the lens dead to rights centered and perpendicular anywhere within the machine regardless of the beam's origin...

It's just easier if the laser tube IS fairly level

[Bill George]

Of course the thought for the day either if its level or parallel with the table or whatever is the machine built good enough to stay where its set? If you move it does it hold those settings? Sometimes you need to stop, step back and think.... what is my time worth? Why do I put up with this? Believe me I have had those moments.

[Mark Taylor2]

I just want to say thanks for the help and input on this problem. I've solved it by tightening and checking every nut and bolt and re-aligning and adjusting. It was a learning experience but everything seems to be steady even after sliding the workbench out from the wall and back several times.

As for the future... this machine will probably be replaced or supplemented by a BossLaser or something equal once we learn the status of my wife's health. I've been encouraged to get into custom cutting for a very niche hobby and am working on learning all I can including some of the more "obscure" features of CorelDraw.

Anyway, thanks again. Sawmillcreek members are a very special breed because of their willingness to help out.

[John Lifer]

I'll say again, that I've been pleased with my Chinese laser from Ray Fine. You can get a 400x 600 80 watt machine for under $2k delivered to us port. You're in Oregon, so freight on up from LA wouldn't be much and duty/fees would only be a few hundred. Well under $3k. (Shipped to me in Arkansas would have been about $2900 total). I'd do that rather than keep spending on a k