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Thread: Wooden Try Plane Refurbishment.

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    The list of work to complete this Try Plane's refurbishment has narrowed considerably. A filler block has been glued in place just forward of the rear tote with a matching 10 degree bevel to help lock it in place with the later application of Titebond Liquid Hide Glue.

    The pin marks for the missing strike block indicate it was previously flush mount, and rectangular in shape. I will be using a 4x shouldered mortise and tenon joint for the new strike block. Unlike the tote, the joint needs to withstand the demands of ongoing impact with a mallet, so a different type of Titebond Glue will be used. https://www.timbecon.com.au/joinery/no-drip-no-run-glue

    The mortise for the new strike block has been done, ready for the next stage of shaping the tenon to fit using an off-cut of Walnut.

    Stewie;

    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 01-09-2017 at 1:08 AM.

  2. #32
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    Nov 2013
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    United Kingdom - Devon
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    367
    Looks great!

  3. #33
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    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    Its was a warm as a Turkish Sauna in the workshop today. Was able to finish shaping the front strike block and give it a test fit. Good to go. Courier arrived with a package of Titebond Glue's. I can start work on gluing in the tote and strike block tomorrow morning.

    Stewie;



    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 01-10-2017 at 1:54 AM.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graham Haydon View Post
    Looks great!
    Thanks Graham; very close now to being completed.

    Stewie;

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
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    12,361
    I have always made my strike knobs from a single piece of wood,with the grain going vertical. That is,you strike the end grain of the wood used for the strike block. Nothing to pop loose from a hammer blow.

    Looks nice,Stewie!

  6. #36
    I don't think the plane ever had a strike block

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    USA
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    4,612
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Mickley View Post
    I don't think the plane ever had a strike block
    If that is the case it's a nice addition!

  8. #38
    I have heard about those English planes with a leather patch nailed to the top in the position of the strikeblock. I don't know if that was ever an original factory option, or if it was a popular users modification. I think the latter.

    But nothing wrong with a nice solid strike block of course.

    The plane looks good Stewie, but I still prefer the original patina

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    I have always made my strike knobs from a single piece of wood,with the grain going vertical. That is,you strike the end grain of the wood used for the strike block. Nothing to pop loose from a hammer blow.

    Looks nice,Stewie!
    Thanks George; I agree on the end grain orientation for a strike block.

    Stewie;

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Mickley View Post
    I don't think the plane ever had a strike block
    Hi Warren; the original pin marks tell a different story. From the pattern of those pins marks I was also able to ascertain the original strike block was rectangular in shape.

    Stewie;

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Sebastopol, California
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    2,050
    Stewie - you're removing a field-applied corrugated sole???

    Good looking plane; I bet it'll be lovely when it's done.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Crystal Lake, IL
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    305
    Very nice write up on this. The plane looks great to me, and if it works as well as it looks, you've got a fantastic tool. Thank you for posting.

    Original or not, and I believe you've done your due diligence, the strike block is great. I install one on all my plane builds, jack to jointer. I've been using up bits of a large timber of blackwood, endgrain up (and down).
    Jeff

  13. #43
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    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    Thanks Jeff. I think we can all agree this woodie has a strike block now. The rear tote and strike block were glued in place this morning. No issues encountered. I will let it sit for 12 hours to allow both glue types to harden up, before applying 2 clear coats of Danish Oil. I also need to recheck the sole flatness with the double irons installed, before giving this Try Plane a test drive..

    For applying Liquid Hide Glue into tight gaps that show within the fit of the rear tote to its mortise , I can recommend the use cheap disposable Syringes. (seen within the previous photo posted).

    Stewie;
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 01-10-2017 at 11:03 PM.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Houghton View Post
    Stewie - you're removing a field-applied corrugated sole???

    Good looking plane; I bet it'll be lovely when it's done.
    Bill; if it were my woodie from day 1 that sole would not have reached such a corrugated state. Its one of the benefits of a wooden soled plane. So much easier to flatten compared to metal soles. They also give a totally different sound to metal soles, allowing greater feedback to the user.

    Stewie;
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 01-11-2017 at 12:47 AM.

  15. #45
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    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    How to raise a sweat with your woodwork. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N97nZLCNhG4
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 01-11-2017 at 4:34 AM.

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