anti seize on light bulbs

[Dave Macy]

My dad is in the hospital so I don't want to bother him with this. The light bulbs in my ceiling fan in my room are hard to replace when they burn out. I found some Loctite c5-a copper anti-seize (the solid kind that's in a screw out stick) in the garage. Would it be ok to put a light coating on the threads before I put the new bulbs in? Seems crazy that a light bulb is hard to replace. But when they get stuck it's tough because my hand is too big to get a good grip on it inside the actual light thing that surrounds it. Thanks

[Lee Schierer]

My dad is in the hospital so I don't want to bother him with this. The light bulbs in my ceiling fan in my room are hard to replace when they burn out. I found some Loctite c5-a copper anti-seize (the solid kind that's in a screw out stick) in the garage. Would it be ok to put a light coating on the threads before I put the new bulbs in? Seems crazy that a light bulb is hard to replace. But when they get stuck it's tough because my hand is too big to get a good grip on it inside the actual light thing that surrounds it. Thanks

I wouldn't. Get some spray silicone and spray some on the light bulb base before you screw it in when replacing them. Make sure you are using the proper wattage bulbs. Most ceiling fans with multiple bulbs are limited to 40 watt bulbs.

[John K Jordan]

My dad is in the hospital so I don't want to bother him with this. The light bulbs in my ceiling fan in my room are hard to replace when they burn out. I found some Loctite c5-a copper anti-seize (the solid kind that's in a screw out stick) in the garage. Would it be ok to put a light coating on the threads before I put the new bulbs in? Seems crazy that a light bulb is hard to replace. But when they get stuck it's tough because my hand is too big to get a good grip on it inside the actual light thing that surrounds it. Thanks

I understand some anti-seize compounds contain metal particles. From an engineering web site I found this just now: "Most anti-sticking compounds consist of a solid lubricant dispersed in a grease or binder. The anti-seizing material provides an insulating barrier or layer between metal components and allows for the easy dismantling of fasteners and parts. Material composition largely dictates thermal performance. Material composition largely dictates thermal performance. Aluminum, copper, nickel, molybdenum disulfide, and graphite powders are common slip agents. Anti-seize compounds that contain metallic particulates and graphite powders are also used."

I don't know if this would cause them to be conductive enough to short out the 110v but if so, it could be a problem on an electrical socket if some got in the wrong place.

What I use is dielectric grease, available at any auto parts store or in a larger container/applicator at an electrical supply store. And probably at WalMart, I didn't check. In the house I use it on light bub sockets/bases and on contact points in my breaker boxes. In electronic/electrical devices I use it on contacts for connectors and inside switches I repair. For automobile, tractor, mower, 4-wheelers, and trailers I use it everywhere two electrical things make contact - bulbs, connectors, etc. This stuff has saved me a lot of grief.

JKJ

[Robert LaPlaca]

I agree with JKJ, I use conductive grease on exterior low voltage lighting, we have some low voltage lights that have bayonet style bulbs halogen that love to get stuck in the socket. Applying a light coating of conductive grease to the base of the bulb has made the stuck bulbs a thing of the past.

[Rich Riddle]

No, you should not use it.

[John Lanciani]

Silicone grease is the correct thing to use; https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-2205.../dp/B000AL8VD2

[Robert Delhommer Sr]

I have the same problem with my lights on my ceiling fans & I put a light coat of silicone dielectric grease on the thread of the new bulbs. I have been doing that for years and no problems.

[Dave Macy]

Thanks. Will get some dielectric grease.

[Bob Grier]

Use silicone paste (grease). Get from electrical supply store or ship (boat) chandlery. Also, can be found in auto stores. I wouldn't use the spray silicone which works great for plastic zippers.

[Jim Koepke]

There is actually a product made specifically for this:

bulb Grease.jpg

Home Depot, Walmart, all the usual suspects carry this or another brand.

jtk

[Terry Wawro]

I learned this trick from an old electrician years ago and it works. Believe it or not, you can rub the back of your ear or the side of your nose then rub the metal base of the bulb. This light coating of oil from you skin will make the bulb very easy to screw in and prevent it from seizing for many years.

[Yonak Hawkins]

This shouldn't be so challenging. I would try something you, likely, already have around the house. Try just a dab of Vaseline. See if that works. If it doesn't, nothing lost .. try something else, but I bet it'll work fine.

[Kev Williams]

Vaseline will work fine, smear a little on, wipe off the excess.

[Roger Feeley]

I always use some dialectric grease on my edison base light bulbs. I've taken flourescent tubes out of service and seen evidence of minor arcing there.

My new house is pretty much all LED. I would guess that I won't need the grease much longer. Yay!

[John K Jordan]

My new house is pretty much all LED. I would guess that I won't need the grease much longer. Yay!

Roger, If any of your LED lights have edison bases you might still want to use the dielectric grease. The brighter LED bulbs can get pretty hot. Last week one of the two LED lights over my bathroom sink got flaky. I had to clean the brass inside the fixture to remove a bit of corrosion. A thin coat of dielectric grease and it's stable again.