Traditional European Workbench Build

[William Fretwell]

Kris,

One of the downfalls of the shoulder vise is horizontal as well as vertical racking. It really only works if the piece can be clamped directly behind the screw.

With this in mind the tolerance of the ear that slides between support and filler block can be made in such a way as to limit this effect. My mistake was I rounded the ear too much think this would make the vise work more smoothly. The problem is a severe amount of wobble and racking that makes the vise useless unless the piece being clamped extends to right behind the flange. Of course, this can be remedied by reworking the vise face which to date, I have been either too busy or too lazy to do. I've found for the problem no big issue I can either use the tail vise or clamp between dogs.

Bottom line: If you keep the ear square and make the face nice and thick (2 - 2 1/4"), I think it will minimize this problem. Of course it may not be an issue for you and you will determine this when you actually start using the vise.

Good idea on countersink the threaded rod nut and washer. I wish I had done that.

I think my shoulder arm dims are 3 3/8 W X 4" H so you should be alright.

The tab on the face vise will not stop wracking, even a thick one. The force will round it's edges due to the extreme leverage advantage of the vise face. It could damage the groove it sits in.
Countersinking the rod nut & washer does weaken the arm retention. I countersunk the washer only.

[Sam Layton]

Looking good Kris. Brings back memories of how much work a bench is. However, it will last a lifetime.

Sam

[Kris Cook]

Been out of town for a week. Went to SC to see some family and spent a few days in Charleston also. Was nice to get out of -5 degrees and spend some time in the sun 70+ temps. Back on the bench this weekend.

Kris

[Mike Heidrick]

Kris. Great thread. Thank you for making it.

[Kris Cook]

Made up a bunch of walnut dowels to pin the mortises

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Pins installed

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Base is done - Assembled with two coats of equal parts: PTO, mineral spirits, and polyurethane

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In the picture below I have mocked up my shoulder vise assembly. I am planning to recess the nut flush with the front arm. This will give me about 5-3/4" opening (with a 7/8" thick chop). I think I can live with that amount of opening. I don't want to recess the nut further into the arm because I am concerned about strength, and I really don't want to add more thickness to the front arm. This will also leave some of the screw sticking out in front of the arm (I guess I can always cut the screw down if it bothers me).

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Kris

[William Fretwell]

So if you add 1 & 1/4" to the front of the arm you could have the full 7" of opening?

[Kris Cook]

Accounting for the chop (7/8" to 1" thickness) the most capacity I could realize would be 6-1/2"). The only additional capacity I could gain would be to also recess the "swivel" on the end of the screw (which would require recessing the nut further). This would yield an additional 3/4". Doesn't really seem worth it to me.

Kris

[Kris Cook]

I am finishing up the shoulder vise and debating on whether to pin this joint. The spacer block and end cap are not glued, nor do I plan to glue them, as I want to be able to disassemble the shoulder vise in the future, if needed. The dovetail is pretty snug, and it seems like the only load on the joint will be to push it closed because of the geometry of the shoulder vise. If I did pin it I wouldn't glue it in for the reasons stated above.

Does anyone that has built/used one of these shoulder vises have a suggestion?

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Thanks in advance.

Kris

[William Fretwell]

Kris, do I understand you are not gluing the pin or the dovetail? That would be strange. The spacer block I understand, it is just a spacer; glue would achieve little.

You have to commit to glue! I can take my traditional tail vise apart as the moving parts can wear and need some work in 20 years, but the joints are glued forever and pinned.

The arm vise is not in line with the threaded rod so there is a twisting of the arm in use, that will want to open the dovetail. I would pin the dovetail twice in the middle of the joint from underneath, not all the way through so it does not show.

I love the dovetail look, but I used finger joints for the much greater glue area with epoxy and pinned from underneath. I did the same on my tail vise joints; they are never coming apart!

Shoulder vises pull the rod through the bottom of the bench on old benches. With a double pinned dovetail I doubt you will see problems if the vise is not seriously abused. Use a double washer under the bench.

[Robert Engel]

Kris, I've seen the DT's pinned but IMO it is not necessary because the threaded rod is what gives strength.

I do not understand what William is talking about re: twisting the threaded rod should be in line with the vise screw.

Looks good so far. I'm glad you countersunk those bolts. I didn't do that and which I had.

[William Fretwell]

I do not understand what William is talking about re: twisting the threaded rod should be in line with the vise screw.

Looks good so far. I'm glad you countersunk those bolts. I didn't do that and which I had.

Hi Robert,
The threaded rod and vise screw are almost never in line. Because they are not, there will be some tendency to twist the arm out from the bottom when using the vise. A strong arm will resist this twisting, the joint (DT or Finger) provides additional resistance to twisting.

If you really want to countersink your bolts you should still be able to. I'm hoping to find some bronze acorn nuts some day.

[Kris Cook]

Thanks guys for the input. I understand the concept William you are trying to get across- because the vise screw is centered in the arm, and the through bolt is in the upper part of the arm the through bolt will essentially be providing a "hinge-point" that under load will put uneven pressure on the arm, and result in a twisting action that would pull on the bottom of the dovetail.

Here is what I am doing. I am not going to glue the dovetail, as I want to be able to disassemble the joint in the future, if needed. I am going to put two 1/2" maple pins through the DT.

After posting the question yesterday, I looked at Tage Frid's "Book 3" and he recommended not gluing the DT and pinning it.

I have put finish on the bottom of the slab, and the top is prepped and ready for finish. I am going to mount the top on the base today and get the finish started on the top, finish up the shoulder vise and tail vise.

More pics to follow.

Thanks
Kris

[William Fretwell]

You are reaching the fun part! I look forward to more photos.

[Robert Engel]

Here is pic of mine it's maybe 3/4" off.
IMG_0227.jpg

Kris the pins are fine but not necessary but it's fine. Personally I would glue it even with pins. You should never have a need to take it apart. Frank Klausz glues the joints as well as the other references I used.

As for concerned about twisting joint apart, I promise you'll never generate enough twisting force to open up the corner joint so don't give a seconds thought.

Exciting when it all come together!

[Kris Cook]

I decided to replace the standard tail-vise handle with a hand wheel. Even though I am left-handed it seemed awkward to use my left hand to turn a handle. The wheel does stick up above the bench a little but I don't think it will be an issue on that end of the bench. I didn't modify the factory hardware so I can always go back to it if I don't like it.

Drilling out the hub
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Next size up
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Drilling the hub for the retaining bolt
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Tapping the hub
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Tapping the maple slab for the sliding block
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Here is a close-up of the threads in the hard maple
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Sliding block installed- it is solid
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Tail vise installed on bench today
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