Drill Press Motor......

[Dennis Peacock]

I have an old Craftsman drill press that is a really good drill press. My issue is that I have bearings that are going out on the motor.
Sears says they no longer have the replacement motor, so I'm asking here to see if I can find a generic replacement motor.
Frame Type: 48
RPM: 1725
HP: 1/3
120v 1Ph
CW Rotation
MFG Model: C55EDA-2599
Sears Model: 71425

I've tried looking stuff up on the web but there are so many choices that...simply put...I get confused on what I truly need to be looking for.

[lee cox]

Take the motor to a electric motor shop and have them replace the bearings. It will be cheaper than a new motor.

[Erik Manchester]

Dennis, you can likely replace the bearings in the motor without any issue, if you can get the right ones. No need to get a motor shop to do this. Are you certain the bearing noise is the motor? Just remove the belt and see if the motor still makes noise to be certain it is not the spindle bearings.

Does the motor have ball ball bearings in it, lots of older small motors had sleeve bushings vice ball bearings and if yours is one of those it would be worth sourcing a used 1/2 hp TEFC motor to replace yours with. If there are provisions to oil the bushings there won't be bearings there. Key things to look for are 1725 rpm, arbor diameter the same as your motor, likely 1/2", and reversible so that rotation direction is not an issue. Frame size 56 are very common and would likely work OK if you cannot find a 48. Even rotation is not an issue as you can always use a longer belt and put a twist in it if the motor is otherwise perfect. I had an Atlas DP that had one like this as the replacement motor I had was TEFC and free, but rotation was CCW and not reversible.

[Dennis Peacock]

Dennis, you can likely replace the bearings in the motor without any issue, if you can get the right ones. No need to get a motor shop to do this. Are you certain the bearing noise is the motor? Just remove the belt and see if the motor still makes noise to be certain it is not the spindle bearings.

Does the motor have ball ball bearings in it, lots of older small motors had sleeve bushings vice ball bearings and if yours is one of those it would be worth sourcing a used 1/2 hp TEFC motor to replace yours with. If there are provisions to oil the bushings there won't be bearings there. Key things to look for are 1725 rpm, arbor diameter the same as your motor, likely 1/2", and reversible so that rotation direction is not an issue. Frame size 56 are very common and would likely work OK if you cannot find a 48. Even rotation is not an issue as you can always use a longer belt and put a twist in it if the motor is otherwise perfect. I had an Atlas DP that had one like this as the replacement motor I had was TEFC and free, but rotation was CCW and not reversible.

Erik,
The motor has sealed ball bearings in it. I took the belt off last year to see where the noise was coming from and it was the motor. I am handy with mechanic work and don't mind taking it apart, just didn't know that I could.

[Ray Newman]

Agree with what Lee Cox posted 'bout taking it to a motor shop. Once they have it apart, they can see if anything else needs attention.

[Gregory King]

Dennis, the motor shop will give you a cost of the repair first. Then you can decide if it's worth it.

[Dennis Ford]

I think the cost of labor will make having the bearing replaced prohibitive on such a small motor. If you can do the work yourself, bearings should not be too expensive (usually fairly simple to replace bearings).

[Matt Day]

It's a pretty easy DIY project especially if you're mechanical as you said. I just replaced the bearings in my TS motor last week. Mark the ends of the housings so you put it back with the same oriemtation, and start tearing it apart. You'll need a bearing/gear puller too to get the old ones off, and some properly sized pipe that you can use to pound the bearing on from the inner race of the bearing. Put the new bearings in the freezer for a couple hours beforehand and they'll install easier.

Check out YouTube too.

[John T Barker]

Why not go to that motor shop and see if they have a good used motor for sale? A motor for that purpose is not that hard to come by.

[Matt Day]

But bearings will cost $10 and you get to see the inside of your motor.

[Mike Henderson]

I think the cost of labor will make having the bearing replaced prohibitive on such a small motor. If you can do the work yourself, bearings should not be too expensive (usually fairly simple to replace bearings).

I absolutely agree with Dennis and several other posters. If your motor runs, there's nothing else that could be done to it except change the starting cap - and you don't need to do that unless it's bad (and then it won't run). So don't take it to a motor shop. Change the bearing yourself. It's a pretty simple job and there's really nothing you can mess up. You just take the two ends off and that's where the bearings are. You don't even have to take the rotor out if you don't want to - but most people do for convenience.

A bearing puller is a nice tool to use and if you don't have one, buying it will be cheaper than what a motor shop will charge. But if you don't have one, and don't want to buy one, you can drive the old bearing out with a piece of wood and a mallet (since you don't care if you damage it). To put the new bearing in, use a block of wood that covers the outside of the bearing and tap it lightly until it seats. I've never had a problem doing it that way.

If you're a turner you can turn two pieces of wood, one to take the bearing out, and one to put it in.

Mike

[Ole Anderson]

Ah, just toss the old motor and put a 1 hp on it. Binford probably has one that fits...can't have too much HP.

[Lee Schierer]

The motor bearings are likely sleeve bearings and they are relatively easy to replace. Look at the motor ends and see is there are little plastic plugs. If there are, these are for oiling the motor bearings. Sleeve bearings cost maybe $5 each.

[Bruce Wrenn]

But bearings will cost $10 and you get to see the inside of your motor.

in idler pulley on daughter Honda that has over 100K on it. Why the heck does this site go back to previous line to finish sentences as it has here? The line below is start of post, but end here above
If it's a 5/8" shaft, then most likely there are 6203's, the most common size of ball bearings. I pay about $2 for them at Fastenal. As for quality, I have one

[Lee Schierer]

in idler pulley on daughter Honda that has over 100K on it. Why the heck does this site go back to previous line to finish sentences as it has here? The line below is start of post, but end here above
If it's a 5/8" shaft, then most likely there are 6203's, the most common size of ball bearings. I pay about $2 for them at Fastenal. As for quality, I have one

If you are using a lap top with a touch pad, most likely it is because your thumbs came too close to the pad while typing. It happens to me all the time.