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Thread: dust collection help in small shop

  1. #16
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    Feb 2008
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    E TN, near Knoxville
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    It sounds to me like you MIGHT be able to rearrange and consolidate things and be able to fit another circuit somewhere for the DC.

    If it was mine, I'd probably sit down and make a good diagram of all the panels, breakers, and exactly what is connected to what. While at it, I might double check the breaker requirements for the large components to make sure they don't have larger breakers than required, regardless of the wire size. I also like to hook a clamp-on amp meter around the hot line in the box (not a good idea unless comfortable working in a hot breaker box) and write down what each large device is actually pulling at full load. Just for information.

    With this map in hand, an electrician could more easily double-check and review your entire wiring installation and give advise on easily done options.

    JKJ

  2. #17
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    Jan 2017
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    St Louis, MO
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    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    It sounds to me like you MIGHT be able to rearrange and consolidate things and be able to fit another circuit somewhere for the DC.

    If it was mine, I'd probably sit down and make a good diagram of all the panels, breakers, and exactly what is connected to what. While at it, I might double check the breaker requirements for the large components to make sure they don't have larger breakers than required, regardless of the wire size. I also like to hook a clamp-on amp meter around the hot line in the box (not a good idea unless comfortable working in a hot breaker box) and write down what each large device is actually pulling at full load. Just for information.

    With this map in hand, an electrician could more easily double-check and review your entire wiring installation and give advise on easily done options.

    JKJ
    I need to get someone out here i guess, My current DC is running off the breaker my door opener is on, why they have a 20 amp circuit for a door opener is beyond me LOL i ran it 15 feet down the wall into the IVAC contactor and it works great

    i use 14/2 but doing the amp calc that should be fine for a short 15 foot run

  3. #18
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    Jan 2017
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    St Louis, MO
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    so not saying im a JDS fan boy or anything, but has anyone tested the claims here? they claim 1000CFM @ 12"

    that seems insain number from a 3HP with 15.5 inch impeller

    http://jdstools.com/product/3hp-cyclone-3100-ck/

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Coppell, TX
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    Ok so JDS have a similar size motor and impeller as the Oneida V-3000 and a smaller motor than the Clearvue but are claiming about another 800CFM max flow? Not sure why anyone would have any issue with their claim :-) Should also note their 1 micron filter is not great for your health

  5. #20
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    Jan 2017
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    St Louis, MO
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Giddings View Post
    Ok so JDS have a similar size motor and impeller as the Oneida V-3000 and a smaller motor than the Clearvue but are claiming about another 800CFM max flow? Not sure why anyone would have any issue with their claim :-) Should also note their 1 micron filter is not great for your health
    That's what I was thinking. looks like the CV are the best one out right now, and should be fine if i run 6inch piping now so i wont need to upgrade later

  6. #21
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    Aug 2012
    Location
    Elgin, TX
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    Sure would be nice if they would post how many amps the motor pulls. I find this true with all the China motors in the different DC units. I noticed some of the harbor Freight units list as 15 amps and some list as 20 amps but the motors look the same. There is no listing as to the actual amp draw on the motor. I would think true 2 HP would be a 220 volt unit only. I have a Baldor 2 HP motor and it draws 24 amps on 110 volt. So you can't plug it into a standard wall plug.
    Last edited by lee cox; 01-09-2017 at 1:32 AM.

  7. #22
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    Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by lee cox View Post
    Sure would be nice if they would post how many amps the motor pulls. I find this true with all the China motors in the different DC units. I noticed some of the harbor Freight units list as 15 amps and some list as 20 amps but the motors look the same. There is no listing as to the actual amp draw on the motor. I would think true 2 HP would be a 220 volt unit only. I have a Baldor 2 HP motor and it draws 24 amps on 110 volt. So you can't plug it into a standard wall plug.
    It must be convention for manufacturers to be vague about the specs. To compare motors they would have to measure the current under equivalent loads. Should they give number for a free running motor? One under full load? (whatever "full load" is) There may be a convention for this, someone may know.

    I tested my 5hp cyclone with a clamp-on amp meter. The amperage is very different depending on how much air is moving through it. Open all the blast gates, the impeller works hard and the current is high. Close all the blast gates causes the impeller to run in a partial vacuum, the current is quite low.

    JKJ

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Indiana
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    3,078
    I guess that JDS has found a secret with 1000 cfm at 12" SP and 3 hp.

    I tested my 5 hp Oneida Super Dust Gorilla with a 15" impeller and got 400 cfm at 12" SP.

    It would be so nice if the mfg had a standard measurement and were honest.

  9. #24
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    Jan 2017
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    St Louis, MO
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Frank View Post
    I guess that JDS has found a secret with 1000 cfm at 12" SP and 3 hp.

    I tested my 5 hp Oneida Super Dust Gorilla with a 15" impeller and got 400 cfm at 12" SP.

    It would be so nice if the mfg had a standard measurement and were honest.
    yes i wish they would regulate this a little, it is very frustrating !!

  10. #25
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    Feb 2013
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    Tippecanoe County, IN
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    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    It must be convention for manufacturers to be vague about the specs. To compare motors they would have to measure the current under equivalent loads. Should they give number for a free running motor? One under full load? (whatever "full load" is) There may be a convention for this, someone may know...
    Yes, there is a convention for this. It's industry standard NEMA MG 1-2016. Motor current is measured with rated voltage and load while operating at maximum ambient temperature after warm up to full operating temperature. There's nothing vague about this. It's all clearly listed on the NEMA Nameplate.
    NEMA Nameplate.jpg
    Of course if the motor is part of an appliance like a washing machine or hobbyist woodworking machine there's a good chance it doesn't have a NEMA Nameplate.

    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    ...The amperage is very different depending on how much air is moving through it. Open all the blast gates, the impeller works hard and the current is high. Close all the blast gates causes the impeller to run in a partial vacuum, the current is quite low.
    The slight drop in air density you get at typical DC pressures causes only a correspondingly slight drop in viscous losses. What your ammeter is showing is the change in the mass of air being moved.
    Imagine filling a watering trough with a five gallon bucket. A full bucket takes some effort to lift up over the rim of the trough. An empty bucket is easy. Open blast gates nearly fill the bucket. Close them and the bucket's empty.
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  11. #26
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    Jan 2017
    Location
    St Louis, MO
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    was at my local farm stoar they have teh S&D pipe 6inch 10 feet long for 13$ each, this really brings the cost down and I am just going to get the CV1800 for my shop if my shop grows or shrinks it will still work just fine thanks for all the help

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew R Miller View Post
    was at my local farm stoar they have teh S&D pipe 6inch 10 feet long for 13$ each, this really brings the cost down and I am just going to get the CV1800 for my shop if my shop grows or shrinks it will still work just fine thanks for all the help
    I don't think you will be sorry! A local industrial plumbing supplier had the S&D. He also had a pile of 6" that had some cracks an damage (the stuff doesn't take banging around well). He said I could have all the damaged one I wanted so I got a bunch of useful shorter pieces.

    BTW, around here the fittings were expensive at the plumbing supply. Where I found the best prices: at the local ACE hardware down the hill! Any fitting they didn't have they could usually get sent to them in a day or two.

    JKJ

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    I don't think you will be sorry! A local industrial plumbing supplier had the S&D. He also had a pile of 6" that had some cracks an damage (the stuff doesn't take banging around well). He said I could have all the damaged one I wanted so I got a bunch of useful shorter pieces.

    BTW, around here the fittings were expensive at the plumbing supply. Where I found the best prices: at the local ACE hardware down the hill! Any fitting they didn't have they could usually get sent to them in a day or two.

    JKJ
    from what i can find the CV has the best flow at 10" and 12" SP on the market

    the filter is merv 16 now

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