How often do you sharpen your joinery saws?

[Joe A Faulkner]

In a recent thread on which western joinery saws a beginner should consider, it was suggested that learning to sharpen handsaws should be something that accompanies this action. While we all fully expect to hone new chisel and plane irons, I've never expected to need to sharpen a new joinery saw from any of the usual vendors (LN, LV, Bad Axe, Bontz, Wenzloff, Gramercy). On the LN web site they state: "Our saws will stay sharp for a long time, but eventually they will need to be resharpened. You can do it yourself or send it to us. "

I know that the circumstances vary from one wood worker to the next, and some of you have multiple saws that you may chose from for the same general operation, but in general how long do you go between resharpening your joinery saws? I recognize that there are a number of factors (frequency of use, species of lumber, size of project, expectations for what is sharp) that contribute to the need to resharpen. So maybe you can include your factors in your response (I work primarily in domestic hardwoods, and primarily build xyz. I usually complete n projects per year and sharpen my saws every ...).

I personally am a hobbiest, who works primarily in cherry, red oak, maple, walnut and hickory. I'm lucky to complete four or five medium-sized projects a year, and since I use a combination of power tools and handtools my handsaws are used sparingly. I own the LN dovetail and carcass saws. I've had them for a couple of years and used them sparingly on three or four projects. At my current rate, I suspect it will be a few years yet before I even think about sharpening these saws. I own a few other Disston backsaws, including a 24" mitersaw with a Langdon miter box that has also been used on these projects.

I'm trying to get a sense of what the urgency is for an owner of a new premium handsaw to develop saw sharpening skills. My gut tells me that of all of the skills to master in hand tool work, saw sharpening is one that can wait if you are starting out with sharp saws. So maybe some of you long-time handsaw users can share your sharpening frequency experiences? Thanks.

[Sergey Petrov]

I use old Disston saws and find that I sharpen them quite often. It depends on how much you use them. It is also a matter of how you like your saws. I hate it when mine become a little dull (within reason, to prevent losing too much saw material due to unnecessarily frequent resharpening). What I have also found is I have gone with less and less set on my saws and I cut much neater cuts with less drift. Also, hard woods and my kids tend to cause saws to go blunt quickly

To try provide a number off you, I would say I sharpen up after 7-10 days of intensive saw use.

[Nick Stokes]

It's like any other sharpening you would do. A quick, light filing will sharpen your saw. It doesn't have to be a long thorough session, jointing, shaping, setting, sharpening... Just a quick pass.

When to do it? When you're no longer happy with how its cutting...

[Joe Kasier]

It is hard to explain, but I can hear when the saw needs sharpened. It starts to make a chattery noise instead of a smooth buzz.

I am the same as you. I get maybe 6-8 hours a week in my shop, and build 3 medium size projects a year, plus maybe a dozen small ones. (Think picture frame or pencil box) I touch my saw up every 8-10 weeks. By touch up I mean I just run a file between the teeth for 1 maybe 2 strokes. I don't joint and set unless I feel like I need to

[Jim Koepke]

In a recent thread on which western joinery saws a beginner should consider, it was suggested that learning to sharpen handsaws should be something that accompanies this action. While we all fully expect to hone new chisel and plane irons, I've never expected to need to sharpen a new joinery saw from any of the usual vendors (LN, LV, Bad Axe, Bontz, Wenzloff, Gramercy). On the LN web site they state: "Our saws will stay sharp for a long time, but eventually they will need to be resharpened. You can do it yourself or send it to us. "

Mine was one of the recommendations to purchase an inexpensive saw for use as a sharpening trainer. This was meant to be a way of establishing experience. When it comes to saw sharpening it would be better to have some experience when a saw purchased new needs fresh teeth.

Some of my inexpensive saws from the mid to late 20th century only went a couple of years before needing to be resharpened. It isn't because of my high productivity. It is more likely the saws are of a softer metal.

Another aspect of learning to sharpen a saw is being able to change the cutting characteristics. If one's saw is hard to start, change the rake or have a progressive rake. If one has progressive rake, after learning to start a saw they may want to equalize the rake.

If one has a joinery saw filed for crosscutting it will likely wear faster depending on the fleam angle and which woods are used.

Finally, many saw users learn to enjoy the different qualities of saws with various filing. With experience filing and knowing how a well made saw works, one might become less hesitant of picking up bargain saws at yard sales to take home and sharpen.

The time to buy and use a sacrificial saw of learning is well before one's new saw needs sharpening.

jtk

[Robert Engel]

How often? When they need it.

Its pretty easy to sharpen a hand saw however if I had a very expensive one, I would send it off.

I have a set of saw files and sets I practice on my old handsaws. Its a good skill to learn.

[Frederick Skelly]

Joe, I saw that same thread and did a double-take, myself. Ive had my LVs 3 years and they still cut well. When they dont, I will send them out. Personally, I just dont have the interest to learn this skill. To each his own, though.
Fred

[Kees Heiden]

Not nearly often enough and this is a good reminder to touch up my crosscut saws. I have been doing the shuffle of grabbing the next saw when one becomes dull, but I am running out of saws now.

I can't really give a number, I have no idea how much work I can do on one sharpening.

[Chris Fournier]

Your question is use related and can only be answered in context. In this case the context is your use. There are many ways to tell if a saw is sharp, not as sharp as it was, or dull. Use and eyballing the teeth are the best ways. Sure you can send your saws out. I chose to learn to sharpen my saws because this is the way I am wired. I sharpen my LN saws too. Honestly, my LN saws didn't cut as well as saws that I sharpened and set that were one third the price. Sure I could also make a saw worse if not careful. I tuned up my LNs and they were considerably better in the cut. Increased set was really the big improvement for me.

[Jim Koepke]

[edited]
I tuned up my LNs and they were considerably better in the cut. Increased set was really the big improvement for me.

Hi Chris,

I am curious about the wood you use. Is it mostly softwoods?

I find a little more set helps with softwoods and a saw with minimal set for dry hardwoods may tend to bind.

On a different note, this thread had me paying a bit more attention to my saw out in the shop yesterday. It seems my most used Disston D8 crosscut saw cuts well but is showing a few shiny tops to some of the teeth. I guess it is time for a sharpening session on that one.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

Since I learned to sharpen saws, I sharpen mine when they need it, including my Lie Nielsen saws. I have old saws that now think they are Lie Nielsen saws.

See Ron Herman's Sharpening Handsaws

[Bill McDermott]

Joe, The idea of practicing on an old saw worked for me. Touching up your better saws is easy compared to rehabbing a worn saw. If you can get an old saw to cut well -- and straight -- then you have learned to sharpen, set and tune a saw. I believe that experience will make you much more confident about when and how to maintain your good saws. May I also recommend a felt tip marker and some drug store magnifying glasses?

All, I can tell when a chainsaw needs to be sharpened by looking at the chips, as they become less chunky and most dusty. Do any of you diagnose a handsaw by examining the chips? Is there any use to that?

[Jim Koepke]

[edited]

All, I can tell when a chainsaw needs to be sharpened by looking at the chips, as they become less chunky and most dusty. Do any of you diagnose a handsaw by examining the chips? Is there any use to that?

On a rip saw the chips will be little curls when the saw is good and sharp. They become more dust like when the saw becomes dull.

jtk