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Thread: Solid Oak Porch Colums

  1. #1

    Solid Oak Porch Colums

    I'm getting ready to build a porch roof on the front (gable) end of my house. I do business with a hardwood sawmill and could have access to some rough cut 6x6 oak for very cheap compared the cost of the pre-fab column sleeves or wraps I've seen out there. I will be painting them white and I think it would be a pretty cool look to have the porch framed with the beefy rough cut timber. I know from experience rough cut oak boards from the mill tend to shrink a fair amount over time so my question is will I be ok using these for columns? How should I approach this? I really don't have a long time to wait and let them sit as I'm trying to finish this project before summer. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    River Falls WI
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    490
    If it is white oak, they are very decay resistant. If Red Oak, maybe if painted. If Kiln dried, you will be in good shape. Dan

  3. #3
    Your posts are likely to develop radial cracks as they dry

  4. #4
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    They are also go to weigh a lot.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    New England
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    Large checks in green oak 6x6 posts are a given but they won't affect their strength in any way. Since you are painting them, you can fill the checks on the second painting or just let them be.

    White oak will be your friend here.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Alpharetta, GA
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    I would suggest a different route. Those nice square 6x6 oak timbers will twist, check, warp and bow over time unless they are old growth recovered timbers. Even with paint. If they are red oak they will start rotting within a year with ANY end grain contact with water.

    I suggest a standard 6x6 pressure treated posts wrapped with mitered MDO. Its easy to do with a decent tablesaw and with good primer coat on all eight sides of EVERY board will last (and stay perfectly straight) for years.

  7. #7
    I agree with all the replies. Disagree with Webb that the look will be beefy with a 6 by 6. But it could be adequate. Would only use them with a simple small moulding top and bottom ,not elaborate or big trim,since they might twist some and then too much size advertises the twist.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Williamstown,ma
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    You don't say where you are located, but unless in a very arid area, White Oak only for exterior. Red Oak rots very quickly.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Mnts.of Va.
    Posts
    615
    One method we use(certainly not the only)...

    4" round steel columns,which pass most residential codes(but check load calcs).Before welding top plates on...
    take plywood squares,with holes bored on center.Get the spacing figured out on how many.Now slide them on,let'm drop to the bttm.Weld top plate on and install.Trimming them becomes easy peasy,slide them up wherever spacing requires.If installing rails,throw an extra in as extra meat at rail location.Keep the trim bds off the deck,concrete,finished floor.The bases are a wear item,easily replaced every 20 years or so.

    Don't make the holes real tight.Columns need airflow,so provide for it,bases and capital.

    Edit to add;corner columns can have asymmetric holes,don't have to be centered.
    Last edited by Brian W Smith; 02-14-2017 at 9:31 AM.

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