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Thread: Kanna get some help, please.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hiawatha KS
    Posts
    25

    Kanna get some help, please.

    Here is my situation. Best description of kanna is $65 from Stu purchased approx. 5 years ago. I am able to plane softwood and get a glorious sheen however I can't get a shaving when going with the grain on hardwood. I can get a shaving when I go against the grain in hardwood, but it is not a good looking one in. The shaving almost seems thicker when I go against the grain. When going with the grain in hardwood. I can get about a quarter inch and then it seems to disengage. I thought maybe there was a convex on the bevel so I reworked the blade to 30 degrees and made sure I kept it flat. Had some pretty tough stiction going on if that matters. I thought that would be a sign of flatness. I tuned up the sole so that it was flat in front of the blade and flat across at both ends of the plane. No wind in it. I did this with the blade/chipbreaker installed. It fits very nicely. No hump behind the blade.

    Any idea's? I purchased the T Odate book on recommendation (love it) but didn't find a solution. Thanks - Paul

  2. #2
    30 degrees is somewhat steep for the bevel if the plane is bedded at 38 degrees, only 8 degrees clearance so unless the blade is supersharp it will not cut. I would lower your bevel to 27 degrees.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,707
    I agree with Brian. Its like advising a 35 degree bevel on a 45 degree bed. There's little room in margins.

    Stewie;
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 01-09-2017 at 4:45 AM.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Bent View Post
    Here is my situation. Best description of kanna is $65 from Stu purchased approx. 5 years ago. I am able to plane softwood and get a glorious sheen however I can't get a shaving when going with the grain on hardwood. I can get a shaving when I go against the grain in hardwood, but it is not a good looking one in. The shaving almost seems thicker when I go against the grain. When going with the grain in hardwood. I can get about a quarter inch and then it seems to disengage. I thought maybe there was a convex on the bevel so I reworked the blade to 30 degrees and made sure I kept it flat. Had some pretty tough stiction going on if that matters. I thought that would be a sign of flatness. I tuned up the sole so that it was flat in front of the blade and flat across at both ends of the plane. No wind in it. I did this with the blade/chipbreaker installed. It fits very nicely. No hump behind the blade.

    Any idea's? I purchased the T Odate book on recommendation (love it) but didn't find a solution. Thanks - Paul
    Check to determine if the blade is still projected below the mouth. At times it can creep up the mouth again especially on hard wood. I have a video on tuning a Kanna. But it does not cover this situation....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hiawatha KS
    Posts
    25
    Thank you very much, gentlemen. I'll follow up this evening.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hiawatha KS
    Posts
    25
    Changing the angle helped quite a bit and now I have a different issue. Soft woods absolutely gorgeous; however, in hard woods my blade does not stay wedged in position but rather backs out of setting. I have filed my pin so that only the center third of the chipbreaker initially touchs. Full engagement when tapped into final position. I am wondering if I should bend the ears a little more to create more force on the wedging of the blade. Thoughts?

    On another note, I get a very, very tightly rolled shaving in softwood and I do have my chipbreaker ramp edge pointing up towards my face. Suggestions?

  7. #7
    Paul,

    Cut a sheet of paper, the same width as the bed, but a little long, then when you install the blade, install the paper behind the blade. It'll tighten up the fit considerably.

    The chip breaker does not hold the blade in place, just itself. The fit should be not especially tight, but sort of tight when tapping it into place
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hiawatha KS
    Posts
    25
    Will do, thanks Brian.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Bent View Post
    Changing the angle helped quite a bit and now I have a different issue. Soft woods absolutely gorgeous; however, in hard woods my blade does not stay wedged in position but rather backs out of setting. I have filed my pin so that only the center third of the chipbreaker initially touchs. Full engagement when tapped into final position. I am wondering if I should bend the ears a little more to create more force on the wedging of the blade. Thoughts?

    On another note, I get a very, very tightly rolled shaving in softwood and I do have my chipbreaker ramp edge pointing up towards my face. Suggestions?
    If the blade is sliding out. It generally means that the contact btw. the blade and bed is not sufficient. Try to test it out where the blade and bed does not mate.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hiawatha KS
    Posts
    25
    The paper trick worked well. I saw a Jay V A youtube today where he was striking the body of the kanna sideways in what appeared to be shifting the blade left to right. Is this the preferred method of lateral adjustment?

  11. #11
    Excellent! I use a mallet and tap the blade. Or hit the back of the dai off center.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Bent View Post
    The paper trick worked well. I saw a Jay V A youtube today where he was striking the body of the kanna sideways in what appeared to be shifting the blade left to right. Is this the preferred method of lateral adjustment?
    Yup that works very well! Striking the side blade works too. Just becareful with the side body as the wall is thin in comparison to the back back of the kanna.

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