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Thread: Post drill question

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    New Hill, NC
    Posts
    2,568
    Brent, here are some pix of mine.

    Pic 1.jpg

    Pic 2.jpg

    Pic 3.jpg

    Pic 4.jpg

    Pic 5.jpg

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Marshall, NC
    Posts
    282
    Weeell, I have quite recently de-parted it and am working on restoring and painting it, sorry, no before pictures. It might be a week before it gets put back together. I will show pictures of the finished product when I'm finished. As far as looks, the first picture there is exactly what it looks like hanging on the drill.
    I was once a woodworker, I still am I'm just saying that I once was.

    Chop your own wood, it will warm you twice. -Henry Ford

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Marshall, NC
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    282
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott T Smith View Post
    Brent, here are some pix of mine.

    Pic 1.jpg

    Pic 2.jpg

    Pic 3.jpg

    Pic 4.jpg

    Pic 5.jpg
    Thanks Scott. What model would that happen to be?
    I was once a woodworker, I still am I'm just saying that I once was.

    Chop your own wood, it will warm you twice. -Henry Ford

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Rochester, MN
    Posts
    38
    It appears to be a model 93. It has the square table and is a two speed. The crank can be moved forward to the shaft with the larger gear. Both turn the same mechanism but of course at different rates for each turn of the handle.

    Jim

  5. #20
    Disregard. The way the thread showed it looked like you were still looking for info on the check shaft, didn't show a lot of the other replies.


    Are the two round holes threaded? If so, they may be a user addition for set screws ( or the odd manufacturer set screw option)

    I've had two drill presses set up to accept drill bits with MT2 or MT3 shanked bits. You can still get them. . .I think I bought one on Amazon a couple years ago, and I know Grainger and Fastenal have them.
    Last edited by Matt Evans; 01-15-2017 at 1:27 PM. Reason: Threaded view is a royal pain
    Making furniture teaches us new ways to remove splinters.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Marshall, NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Evans View Post
    Disregard. The way the thread showed it looked like you were still looking for info on the check shaft, didn't show a lot of the other replies.


    Are the two round holes threaded? If so, they may be a user addition for set screws ( or the odd manufacturer set screw option)

    I've had two drill presses set up to accept drill bits with MT2 or MT3 shanked bits. You can still get them. . .I think I bought one on Amazon a couple years ago, and I know Grainger and Fastenal have them.
    Yes, the bottom hole will accept a set screw. I am in the process of ordering an MT3 shank with a compatible chuck. I'll need to get a set screw for it to.
    I was once a woodworker, I still am I'm just saying that I once was.

    Chop your own wood, it will warm you twice. -Henry Ford

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,402
    I haven't read the whole thread,but those type spindles were made for drills that all had tapered shanks,such as Morse Taper shanks. I have a bunch of them,running from about 1/2" to 1 1/2". I had them up to 3",but left them for the museum when I retired. I never used a drill that large. The large lathe at work could probably have powered a 3" drill,but my 16" drill at home is only 3 H.P.,and I seriously doubt it would. In steel,at least! There are other ways to bore holes,and more accurate,too.

    If that set screw in the spindle is ORIGINAL,as said earlier,the hole may just be a 1/2" straight bored hole to take the "Silver and Deming(sp?) drills that you could get commonly from 1/2" to 1" with 1/2" straight shanks,in 1/16" steps in size. But,that elongated hole at the top usually indicated that the drills were taper shanks. The elongated hole is where you would insert a tapered "key" to knock out the Morse Taper drill shank. They could get jammed pretty tight. Blacksmith's hole drilling needs were usually pretty limited compared to those of a machinist.

    Morse taper drills came in all kinds of sizes. The smallest Morse Taper ones I have seen down to 1/8". Morse tapers start at #0(IIRC) and go up to who knows what! My 16" lathe's
    spindle hole is a #6,which is quite a large Morse Taper. The most common are the #2 MT (Morse Taper). smaller size lathes like 10" or 12" swing,including wood lathes in that size range,have a #2 in both tailstock and headstock. My 1950's Oliver is #2 M.T..

    If you needed to use a drill that had a shank in M.T.,a size or 2 larger or smaller than the one on the spindle,you can buy adapters to fit their shanks. But,I don't think the post drill could handle a drill larger than the usual #2 shank size. They top out at about 3/4" Dia.,but there are always special sizes not usually found outside the usual range of their shank size. Too large a drill on a smaller than ordinary shank could result in the flat tang,or the whole shank itself being twisted off.

    As much extra trouble as it is to make drills with MT shanks,I'd have thought it easier to just use a simple chuck. Range 0 to 1/2".

    You can buy a chuck with a built in #2 MT shank and just use that for most jobs. Those do take up vertical space,though,limiting the thickness of material that you can get under the drill bit. I can pretty much guarantee however,that you'd probably be exhausted by the time you hand cranked a 3/4" drill through a i" thick piece of steel!!
    Last edited by george wilson; 01-17-2017 at 9:10 AM.

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