Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: Design suggestions and critique _Assembly/Outfeed Table

  1. #1

    Design suggestions and critique _Assembly/Outfeed Table

    I have a thread posted about t-track in an assembly/outfeed table, so I wanted to start a new thread on my ideas for building an assembly/outfeed table and hopefully get some ideas from fellow Creekers. I don't have a lot of room to spare, so the table needs to be a workbench, assembly table and an outfeed table. I have 2 @ 4' x 8' sheets of 3/4" Baltic birch which I was planning on using for the top, probably Formica on top. For the legs, I was going to glue up some 5/4 Ash boards to make 3.5" square legs and 1" x 3.5" aprons. I would like the drawers at the 'front' to be flush with the aprons and top, perhaps dog holes in the front of the legs as well as the top. Dog holes in Baltic Birch? I'm thinking about drawer slides for the drawers, but need to figure how and where to mount on the interior of the table. Can the the aprons be set flush with the outside of the legs? The sides and back facing the saw could have the aprons set back, closer to the center of the leg. Would there be any benefit in having the top overhang the table on the sides, maybe for clamping pieces to the top? I need something for holding projects for both hand and electric tools. I would do a Sketchup design, but don't have the time to learn right now. Any suggestions, critiques, or recommendations to make the table an all-in-one piece would be appreciated.


    Assembly_Outfeed_front.jpgAssembly_Outfeed_side.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
    Posts
    1,225
    Look at some of the workbench designs out on the internet or read Chris Schwarz's The Anarchist's Workbench (it was free to download in the past and may still be). You certainly don't need to utilize his plans, but it will give you a myriad of ideas as to how to implement different holding technics and his reasons for overhangs etc

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
    Location
    Tracy, CA
    Posts
    645
    I have a router table that I use as a worktable and I use the overhang to clamp down material ALL THE TIME. I think it's a very useful feature and you should design that into your top. I would put about 4" overhang for clamps.

    The other thing for out feed table is to make sure you build in some kind of leveling adjustment feet for the legs. You might cut a perfect 33-7/8" height, but concrete floor is not always perfectly flat and you would need to adjust exact height to make it coplaner to the table saw top.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Eagle, WI
    Posts
    131
    The Down to Earth Woodworker outfeed table is similar to the design that you are proposing.

    https://youtu.be/99Vg19bTR58

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,494
    Blog Entries
    1
    So many variables. What you do and how you do it will determine your end design. You are doing right in asking for everyone's input. This is the method I use for some things as well. I take all the info, keep what suits me best and toss the rest. All the following is just my view on things and your requirements may be different.

    I agree with Aaron that a top edge that you can clamp to is a must. I would want this edge to be flush or proud of the cabinet and full thickness. That is, I would not change to a single layer / decorative edge as you show unless you prefer looks to function (which is fine). If you will use dog holes you will want an open area between the lower surface of the top and the top of the drawer unit so you can reach under. I would sacrifice a couple of drawers to get this if I had to.

    TS-Outfeed (38).jpg . TNNW End Vise (22).jpg

    You will want your drawer pulls to be recessed from the edge of your top so that long material can be clamped to the side without interference. I have used dogs in a double layer of 3/4" ply with a 1/8" tempered hardboard top laminated to it for years without issue. My main bench is a laminated plywood / MDF top BUT it is 3" thick. With the 2 plywood layers on the bottom for structural strength the MDF dog holes have been fine for years of tough use. Your double 3/4" ply should be fine with a laminated top sheet of hardboard or Formica.

    Being an outfeed table as well as a work / assembly surface you will want to be able to level the surface (as well as align it to your saw). Since my outfeed is also an assembly surface I set the outfeed height to the bottom of the miter track for clearance instead of routing grooves into it. This is a trade off. I get a less interrupted surface but have a 3/8" drop as material leaves the tablesaw top. This has worked well in practice for me although a level outfeed surface has advantages. You will have to choose your own trade offs BUT make the height adjustable for leveling and height changes should you move your saw or rearrange your shop.
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 11-04-2022 at 10:28 AM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  6. #6
    Thanks for the great suggestions! I am going to plan on a 4" overhang for the top on the left and right sides, and the top thickness will be 2 @ 3/4" pieces of Baltic birch, except where the top meets the table saw rear rails. Drawers will be flush to the front face with grooves routed on the bottom of each drawer instead of a drawer pull. I will also install adjustable feet on the legs. The top will have round dog holes with a space beneath the top to accommodate work-holding and clamping accessories. The area beneath the top will be 3-1/2" with plywood separating the area from the first drawer. Does 3-1/2" sound like enough, or should I go for 4 or 5"? The open area for the dog holes - I was figuring on having it open on the front and back only, enclosed on the left and right sides with an upper rail, and a center rail runningOutfeed_Front2.jpgOutfeed_Sideview2.jpg from front-to-back.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
    Location
    Tracy, CA
    Posts
    645
    You don't seem to have a 4" overhang on the front where the legs are. This might be a blocker if you need to clamp exactly at the leg position (I suspect you are wanting to use that clearance under the top for clamps).

    On the back edge, where it backs up against the saw, I would put a very mild chamfer or a small 1/8" round-over on that edge. It will help when you push wood through on the table saw. If it is a hard edge corner, your wood may catch on that edge from the table saw.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Madison, Wisconsin
    Posts
    489
    Here is a mobile height adjustable outfeed table I made several years ago.

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....t=#post2893550

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    Formica is horrible on an assembly table--way too slippery. Plus you can't screw stuff down to it. Much better is a replaceable sheet of tempered Masonite. Keep it simple.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  10. #10
    My .02:

    - Make both layers of the top overhang
    - As other have said- overhang on all sides, 2 1/2" is enough IMO.
    - No plastic laminate.
    - Make fewer and deeper drawers. Make the drawers as separate units that can be modified.
    - Leave some open shelf area for power tools, etc..
    - I also favor having the outfeed lower than the table saw. This makes a stop to plane against among other things.
    - Leave a gap between the saw and the outfeed table. Place for offcuts & debris to go, and more options for managing workpieces as they go through the saw.
    - Skip the middle legs and make the rails and bottom deck full length. add smaller middle support if necessary.
    - Make the table narrower i.e. 36-38". 48" is too wide to reach work piece from both sides & much wider than the table saw.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    My main assembly/outfeed table is 48" x 96", covered with a replaceable sheet of tempered Masonite. My other outfeed table is a solid core door, also covered in tempered Masonite.

    Last edited by andy bessette; 11-07-2022 at 11:34 AM.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
    Location
    Tracy, CA
    Posts
    645
    Quote Originally Posted by Cameron Wood View Post
    - Make both layers of the top overhang
    - As other have said- overhang on all sides, 2 1/2" is enough IMO.
    I recommended 4" because the largest jaw on my clamps measures about 3-5/8". I think 2-1/2" is too short for overhang.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Inami View Post
    I recommended 4" because the largest jaw on my clamps measures about 3-5/8". I think 2-1/2" is too short for overhang.
    A large overhang interferes with accessing the drawers immediately beneath.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    A large overhang interferes with accessing the drawers immediately beneath.

    Yeah, I had a set up like that years ago - 4x8 outfeed table with ~4" overhangs. Good for working stance, but quite awkward for reaching stuff underneath.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
    Location
    Tracy, CA
    Posts
    645
    It's up to you. I have had instance where I need to put the entire jaw of my clamp onto the table. In that scenario, a small 2-1/2" overhang would not work. Pick your battle. Either better clamp overhang or more convenient drawers.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •