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Thread: 3D Printing Engraving Fixtures

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt McCoy View Post
    Did you reproduce by scanning the existing fixture and then model?
    I just took some measurements off the original and drew it up in Corel. Then I "3D-ized" it with FreeCAD. I didn't want it exactly the same as the original. I needed it to hug a 2" disc better, which my version does.
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  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Null View Post
    Good news that they appear to be durable. Given the excessive prices Gravograph and others charge for those things, you may have just found a nice little business.

    I use mine frequently and usually have to jerry rig something to adjust to the various small items I engrave. I do gold and silver medallions and they are so thin that unless I elevate them in the holder, I can't engrave the full surface. I also cut a notch through the jig to allow the jump ring to center.
    The prices on these things are ridiculous.
    I'm probably going to make several more versions for various things. Now that the basic design is done, making different edge sizes and patterns is a breeze.
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  3. #18
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    Great work Brian,

    What is the max size of the part you can produce with your 3D printer?
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  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt McCoy View Post
    Very cool. If it's ABS with a good infill, it should be pretty durable.
    I used to prefer ABS over PLA but now it really depends upon the item I'm making. PLA is very strong, the interlayer bonding is generally better than ABS. PLA is also significantly stiffer than ABS. PLA is also waterproof and does not crack when making large parts like ABS is prone to.

    The downside of PLA is that it is not good for parts that will be outdoors (exposed to UV) or parts that will be subjected to high heat. PLA will soften and deform at a lower temperature than ABS. When it comes to just durability though, I think PLA has the edge.
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  5. #20
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    PETG is the way to go, all the strength of ABS none of the absorbing moisture problems or print layer separation issues. I think I have about 6 rolls of PETG and maybe one of ABS left on hand. Switched over a year ago.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa: Master Electrician, HVAC commercial, Hobby metal Fab and Machine shop and more... , Ray Fine 20w Galvo Fiber laser , LightObject 40w CO2. MakerGear M2 3D Printer. Qe60+ Vinyl cutter.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Harman View Post
    I used to prefer ABS over PLA but now it really depends upon the item I'm making. PLA is very strong, the interlayer bonding is generally better than ABS. PLA is also significantly stiffer than ABS. PLA is also waterproof and does not crack when making large parts like ABS is prone to.

    The downside of PLA is that it is not good for parts that will be outdoors (exposed to UV) or parts that will be subjected to high heat. PLA will soften and deform at a lower temperature than ABS. When it comes to just durability though, I think PLA has the edge.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill George View Post
    PETG is the way to go, all the strength of ABS none of the absorbing moisture problems or print layer separation issues. I think I have about 6 rolls of PETG and maybe one of ABS left on hand. Switched over a year ago.
    Thanks guys.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Lenkic View Post
    Great work Brian,

    What is the max size of the part you can produce with your 3D printer?
    Thanks, Tony. The largest I can print is 220 x 220 x 240. This is in millimeters, of course.
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  8. #23
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    I've printed nothing but PLA to this point. I want to do PETG, but I think I need to upgrade to an all metal hot end for that. I want to try nylon out as well.
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  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Leavitt View Post
    I've printed nothing but PLA to this point. I want to do PETG, but I think I need to upgrade to an all metal hot end for that. I want to try nylon out as well.
    If you do ABS you can do PETG. About 245 C on the extruder and heated bed a little cooler than ABS at 70-80 C and I get most of my filament off Amazon.
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  10. #25
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    That's good to know, thanks. I can do ABS no problem.
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  11. You guys might want to consider OnShape for 3D design. It is free for public documents and is pretty quick to pick up. I tried to use Freecad but gave up because of the state of its sketching mode.

  12. #27
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    Brian, Would you be willing to share the make and model of your 3D printer? Assuming it isn't Glowforge of course!

    BTW....I have turned my Brother Inkjet Printer into a 3D printer by first printing on a flat sheet of paper, and then using Origami to come up with the 3D side of the equation!! Brilliant if I do say so myself!!!! Watch for it in the trades......its gonna be Yuge!!!!
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  13. #28
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    HA! I've turned my Laser into a 3D Printer, can you top that?

    Actually, pretty simple to take a 3D stl file and using 123D make, slice into your material thickness and export into dxf in order to laser it up.
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  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Somers View Post
    Brian, Would you be willing to share the make and model of your 3D printer? Assuming it isn't Glowforge of course!
    No Glowforge for me!

    My printer is an Anet A8. I've done some upgrades to it and it actually prints quite well - as good or better than prints I've seen come off much more expensive machines. I'm just getting started with PETG filament. I typically print PLA, though. PETG is a different animal, I'm finding out. I've been able to get decent prints with it, but I need to do something about heat bed adhesion because the PETG does not seem to like the blue painters tape I've been using.
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  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Lifer View Post
    Actually, pretty simple to take a 3D stl file and using 123D make, slice into your material thickness and export into dxf in order to laser it up.
    I did a skull out of engraving plastic using this method, a while back. It was pretty neat. I just heard that 123D Make is going away, though.
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