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Thread: Wolverine setup on 8 inch Baldor grinder

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    North East, PA
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    Wolverine setup on 8 inch Baldor grinder

    I just received the wolverine sharpening kit to install on my 8 inch Baldor with CBN wheels. The instructions call for the base to be mounted no more than 6 1/2 inches from the wheel centerline. This will require removing the guards entirely from the Baldor; is this an issue at all since I'm using CBN wheels? I'm sure others have already encountered this and can offer their experience.

    thanks!

  2. #2
    Not an issue with CBN wheels.

  3. #3
    Well, it is a bit of an issue. The inside part of the wheel guard covers the wheel bearings. You do want to keep the wheel bearings covered. In order to get the dust port on the bottom up or clear, then as near as I can tell, you have to cut or grind it off. I have heard that you can rotate the guard enough to slip the Wolverine under it, but when I looked, I couldn't see how it could be done. I have heard that you can angle the Wolverine platform, but if you use the long arm for the SRG instead of a platform, then that might cause problems. Steve Worchester ( think that is his correct last name) over on the AAW site has them set up. I did see another set up where the turner used extended posts on his jigs, which would also work. Not sure of any other methods though. I do keep the inside part of the wheel guard on. Yes, there is no risk of the wheel blowing up, but there is a lot of fine dust that comes off and floats around the shop like wood dust. I had to put a machined washer, 5/8 inch thick, with a slot to slip over the key pin on the axle to space the wheel out far enough so I could tighten up the outside nut. There are pictures of it on my CBN wheel article on my web site.

    robo hippy

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reed Gray View Post
    Well, it is a bit of an issue. The inside part of the wheel guard covers the wheel bearings. You do want to keep the wheel bearings covered. In order to get the dust port on the bottom up or clear, then as near as I can tell, you have to cut or grind it off. I have heard that you can rotate the guard enough to slip the Wolverine under it, but when I looked, I couldn't see how it could be done. I have heard that you can angle the Wolverine platform, but if you use the long arm for the SRG instead of a platform, then that might cause problems. Steve Worchester ( think that is his correct last name) over on the AAW site has them set up. I did see another set up where the turner used extended posts on his jigs, which would also work. Not sure of any other methods though. I do keep the inside part of the wheel guard on. Yes, there is no risk of the wheel blowing up, but there is a lot of fine dust that comes off and floats around the shop like wood dust. I had to put a machined washer, 5/8 inch thick, with a slot to slip over the key pin on the axle to space the wheel out far enough so I could tighten up the outside nut. There are pictures of it on my CBN wheel article on my web site.

    robo hippy
    Thanks Reed. I just got back from removing the inner guard and right away realized it was protecting the bearings and needs to remain in place.

    This may require a bit of finaging to figure out.........

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Near Springville, AL
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    >"there is a lot of fine dust that comes off and floats around the shop like wood dust."

    Those finds are very fine steel particles and whatever comes of the wheel. Not at all good for the lungs.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Southern Maryland
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    166
    I put a strip of magnetic tape, the kind with a sticky back, under the CBN wheel along the tube the jig slides in. It does collect a considerable amount of dust and black stuff so I guess it does help the dust problem a bit.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    I just finished grinding off the dust port part of the cast iron inner wheel guard. Dirty work but it had to be done to mount the Wolverine base the way I wanted it. I think this setup should be smooth sailing now........

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Atikokan, Rainy River district, Ontario
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clay Fails View Post
    I just finished grinding off the dust port part of the cast iron inner wheel guard. Dirty work but it had to be done to mount the Wolverine base the way I wanted it. I think this setup should be smooth sailing now........
    A little late here, but why not bring the receiver cup up by setting/clamping or welding a angle piece of steel in it as high as needed to get to the height you want to achieve ????
    Have fun and take care

  9. #9
    Can't remember, but my tool rests on the Baldor are up about 1 1/2 inches compared to about 3/4 inch on more 'standard' grinders. The dust port in the back angles down, so you can angle the Wolverine base, I think, to get it under that dust port, but I think both the wolverine and grinder work better if you have them both level.

    robo hippy

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reed Gray View Post
    Can't remember, but my tool rests on the Baldor are up about 1 1/2 inches compared to about 3/4 inch on more 'standard' grinders. The dust port in the back angles down, so you can angle the Wolverine base, I think, to get it under that dust port, but I think both the wolverine and grinder work better if you have them both level.

    robo hippy
    Reed I am assuming that the grinder has to be brought up for the Wolverine base to fit under the grinder, let’s say the grinder sits now at 7” or 7 ¼” rather than 6 ½”, by welding a receiver cup like the one that is on the arm ½” or ¾” higher you are all set without cutting the grinder.

    The other thing that could be done is, cut the cup from the arm and weld a ½” or what’s called for piece on the arm and the cup on top of that, either way you are at the height that is required.
    Have fun and take care

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Bangor, PA
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    1,853
    My 8" baldor has ports like Reed's. They are angled down toward the back. That puts the chutes squarely in the way of raising the jig high enough. Setting it as high as possible still made the tool rests too low. I cut and inserted (welded) a piece of 3'4" square stock on the upright portion of the tool rest to get it high enough. As for the arm and cup, I did exactly what Leo suggested.
    A few months ago I had occasion to use someone's Baldor slow speed grinder. The chutes were straight and did not interfere with the proper placement of the base.

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