Table saw died

[Malcolm McLeod]

Yes 240, know where to check in the motor?

You can get a multi-meter that will suit the task from the BORG-esques for $15-$20.

Unplug the saw.

Open the cover on the motor's electrical box and there should be 3 wires coming from the switch (2 hot and 1 ground). The hot wires may have wire nuts or bayonet-style connectors. Make sure that you can safely get the multi-meter's leads into contact with the hot wires, but not expose yourself to shock or short a hot to the frame. (You can disconnect the hot wires and leave them 'hanging' free, if necessary.)

Reconnect the saw's power plug. Press the start button. Use the multi-meter to measure voltage on the hot wires at the motor for 240V power. Also measure each hot to ground (120V).

Unplug, reconnect, and re-install covers as needed.

If you have 240V between the hot legs, the problem is in the motor.

If you don't have 240V (hot<>hot) and/or no 120V (both)(hot<>gnd), the problem is in the switch/starter/wiring.

It will be much easier to provide further assistance, once you have 'split' the potential problem sources in half.

[peter gagliardi]

If its a contractor type saw- motor hanging off the back, with no cabinet base, look on the end of the motor opposite the pulley, there is a little recessed button- usually red. Push it in, that is the overload.

[Chuck Mayuski]

Thanks so much,I'll give it a shot

[Charles Lent]

I no nothing about your Jet table saw, but every 3 hp saw that I've ever had experience with has had a motor starter, which is nothing more than a big relay in a box, usually on the back of the saw cabinet and two buttons in a small box on the front of the saw labeled start and stop. Frequently, the stop button contacts get dirty or sawdust gets in the box and between the switch contacts. The stop button contacts are normally closed (on) connecting the wires together and open when the stop button is pressed. If this circuit opens due to bad contacts, dirt, or sawdust, the saw will stop like you describe. It may also only operate while you are holding in the start button and stop immediately when you release the start button. This sounds to me to be the most likely source of your problem and it's quite easy to fix.

Charley

[Chuck Mayuski]

I will gladly take any advice you can give me.The stop and start do nothing and there is power to the switch. It is a magnetic switch if that makes a differance. the buttons don"t "catch" in either on or off,you can just push them and nothing...as if maybe the contacts are open.????? grateful for any advice you can give but I'm kinda thinking its the switch assembly.

[Arthur Fleming]

By any chance, do you live in or near, Massachusetts? I'm an electrician, and would take a peek at it for you.

[Brice Rogers]

I have a different thought.

I own a newer large Grizzly lathe and the on-button "catches" if the machine is plugged in. That is, if it is plugged in and I press the start stop safety switch is clicks and stays in. If the machine isn't plugged in the start-stop switch just moves in and out and no click. The switch actually has a small relay built in it. If it is running and I hit the emergency stop, it interrupts the little internal relay and removes power. So, if your old switch used to click but doesn't any longer, then the power switch is likely the culprit.

[Robert Engel]

If you have 240V between the hot legs, the problem is in the motor.

Reading between the two hots will be zero.

You have to check both legs to ground.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Reading between the two hots will be zero.

You have to check both legs to ground.

Robert, if you have a 240V plug in your shop, please use a meter to check the voltage between the hot legs and let me know what you get.