Avoiding tearout when chamfering edges

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, Brian.

Would the Lee Valley tool work? See below. It has a chipbreaker.

I don't see a chip breaker, I recommend looking for a true mentori ganna.

[Tony Wilkins]

Thanks, Brian.

Would the Lee Valley tool work? See below. It has a chipbreaker.

It shoukd work. It's basically a Japanese plane with a notch cut in dai/wooden base. That said if you need a guide there is also the Lee valley block plane (the older version). But don't assume you need a guide if any sort.

[Terry Beadle]

I use a small block plane that I made and it has a 50+ angled bed. The blade is a $10 Mujingfang I bought from Japan Woodworker. ( high carbon steel )
They take a really sharp good lasting edge. It has a sliding front mouth piece like Steve Knight's planes had/have.

No tear out.

Made from scrap cherry. After several years of use, I've tuned it only moderately and am very satisfied I've gotten my $10 worth...hoot!

Enjoy the shavings.

[Tony Wilkins]

I don't see a chip breaker, I recommend looking for a true mentori ganna.

Is this one Brian?

http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/...roducts_id=770

[Derek Cohen]

In addition to high angle planes and/or chipbreakers, it is important to read the grain. Where small planes (such as the HNT Gordon Palm Smoothing plane) are helpful is that they can easily be reversed when the grain direction changes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lowell holmes]

In addition to high angle planes and/or chipbreakers, it is important to read the grain. Where small planes (such as the HNT Gordon Palm Smoothing plane) are helpful is that they can easily be reversed when the grain direction changes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

That's why I use a small spoke shave to round the edges on difficult wood. That allows me to respond to tear out.

[Brian Holcombe]

This is what I had in mind;

http://www2.odn.ne.jp/mandaraya/kaku...yuu-saika.html

Tehiba Masanori is the proprietor of that site.

[Bill Houghton]

Block plane.

[Matt Evans]

This is what I had in mind;

http://www2.odn.ne.jp/mandaraya/kaku...yuu-saika.html

Tehiba Masanori is the proprietor of that site.

Google translation of that page gave me a bit of a chuckle:
"16600 yen In stock
With the making of a popular plane "Ayaka", I made free-angle chamfering planes. Even if it is small, you can wear clippers in the arrow feathered with hammerheads.

Even if you take each side with a router or trimmer, the gloss will not rise so it will be scraped off with bean flat planes, but the narrow side is easy to grasp and can not be cleaned beautifully.

Also, as for the horse riding surface, if there is no gap in the size of the surface, gaps will be created, so this plane will demonstrate its power at such times.

In order not to reduce the number of units, it is advisable to scrape up to a finished surface in advance with a rough plan and finish it with this plane several more times in advance"

Sorta curious how big the furniture is if it has a horse riding surface. . .

[Patrick Chase]

I am putting a 1/8" chamfer on all the arrises of parts for a piece I am building in cherry. I used a simple 2-cutter RadiPlane to do edges of the legs and am getting tearout, even when carefully examining for grain direction and taking test cuts with a small plane set to cut very little, to verify direction.

Is there a better tool to be using?

Two words: Card scraper.

A finely tuned plane with a cap iron (what some call "chip breaker") would also work, but that takes some specific skills to set up and use.

What "small plane" did you use, and specifically what was its cutting angle? If it was a typical low-angle block (25 deg bevel + 12 deg bed = 37 deg total) then that's a recipe for tearout even when taking fine cuts. If you did use a low-angle plane of some sort then you might want to increase the secondary/micro-bevel such that the cutting angle is at least 45 deg and try again.

[Patrick Chase]

That's why I use a small spoke shave to round the edges on difficult wood. That allows me to respond to tear out.

I find that bevel-down spokeshaves (45 deg cutting angle) work reasonably well for that, though they lack a cap-iron and so aren't quite as capable of mitigating tearout as a bench plane. With that said I've had good luck with an LV BD shave, with the blade shimmed (with thinner ones than LV provides) to tighten the mouth to a few mils.

Bevel-up shaves as typically configured (~25 deg bevel, minimal bed angle) are horribly susceptible to tearout IMO, and not really suited for the sort of job the OP describes.

[lowell holmes]

I find that bevel-down spokeshaves (45 deg cutting angle) work reasonably well for that, though they lack a cap-iron and so aren't quite as capable of mitigating tearout as a bench plane. With that said I've had good luck with an LV BD shave, with the blade shimmed (with thinner ones than LV provides) to tighten the mouth to a few mils.

Bevel-up shaves as typically configured (~25 deg bevel, minimal bed angle) are horribly susceptible to tearout IMO, and not really suited for the sort of job the OP describes.

The shave I use is Lee Valley's Replica Cast Round Spoke Shave. I don't recall ever having tear out with it. But then I know how to use it. It also is kept razor sharp. Why would tear out
occur rounding edges? I don't recall ever doing that. I strive for translucent shavings whether using a spokeshave or plane

[Brian Holcombe]

Google translation of that page gave me a bit of a chuckle:
"16600 yen In stock
With the making of a popular plane "Ayaka", I made free-angle chamfering planes. Even if it is small, you can wear clippers in the arrow feathered with hammerheads.

Even if you take each side with a router or trimmer, the gloss will not rise so it will be scraped off with bean flat planes, but the narrow side is easy to grasp and can not be cleaned beautifully.

Also, as for the horse riding surface, if there is no gap in the size of the surface, gaps will be created, so this plane will demonstrate its power at such times.

In order not to reduce the number of units, it is advisable to scrape up to a finished surface in advance with a rough plan and finish it with this plane several more times in advance"

Sorta curious how big the furniture is if it has a horse riding surface. . .

Google translate makes some very interesting connections in Japanese, lol.

[Patrick Chase]

Why would tear out
occur rounding edges? I don't recall ever doing that. I strive for translucent shavings whether using a spokeshave or plane

For the same reasons tear out always occurs. There's nothing magical about edge-rounding that makes it any more or less susceptible than any other cut (except of course that you're working a very small area of the wood and can therefore avoid reversals "across" the cut).

[Pat Barry]

Two words: Card scraper.

A finely tuned plane with a cap iron (what some call "chip breaker") would also work, but that takes some specific skills to set up and use.

What "small plane" did you use, and specifically what was its cutting angle? If it was a typical low-angle block (25 deg bevel + 12 deg bed = 37 deg total) then that's a recipe for tearout even when taking fine cuts. If you did use a low-angle plane of some sort then you might want to increase the secondary/micro-bevel such that the cutting angle is at least 45 deg and try again.

A card scraper can break the edge and create a chamfer of course, but, it's not going to provide a consistent chamfer along the edges of the piece like a tool designed to create chamfers. That's the idea for the Radiplane. A small block plane fitted with a guide to reference off the surface and create the chamfers would work as would a tricked up spokeshave.