Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 25

Thread: Nicholson workbench build

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Apex, NC
    Posts
    549

    Nicholson workbench build

    Alright, everyone. I've heard that when you make commitments to others, you tend to be more faithful in following through, so I'm starting my workbench build thread as incentive to get this done!

    I just hauled 404.7lb of DSS SYP into the basement (*pant*pant*pant*) and stickered it to dry. In another thread I mentioned that I found an builder's supply place just 5 minutes up the road from me, so I called and convinced them to sell me some select SYP. The pricing worked out to less than BORG prices for #2! Given that we just had a lot of snow and these were stored outside, it'll likely take a couple of weeks for everything to dry, but in the meantime I'm going to start planning out the cuts/etc.

    My plan is to build two benches: a Nicholson for me and a mini-Nicholson for my kids. I'm going to follow the design/plan from Mike Siemsen's Naked Woodworker DVD with a couple of minor modifications that I will document as I get to them. I'm thinking to make mine 7' long and the kids' one 3' - 4' long...that depends on where I decide it will stay.

    I thought about things a lot and have been planning a Roubo build for a couple of years, but for three reasons decided on this:
    • First - it's far more budget friendly. I bought the SYP for ~$120 and need to pick up some 1-by lumber for ledgers/etc., so I figure ~$150 for lumber for BOTH benches.
    • Second -I have a Moxon vise I built ~4 years ago, so my work holding requirements are less than the Roubo provides. I mean, yes, a leg vice would be nice, but for now, I can use a crochet because any work on vertical boards can be done with the Moxon vise.
    • Third - this is really my first "real" workbench. I've had flat surfaces to work on for years, but this is the first woodworking workbench I'll be building. I'd like to get to know how my methods evolve before building the bench to end all benches.
    • Fourth - I'm a lefty, but have been working at the right side of my bench (facing the wrong way) for a few years because of space limitations/etc. I want to figure out how I work with a real workbench before deciding where to place a leg vice.

    I'm going to try to be brutally honest during the build, noting where I make mistakes, because I want to learn from you guys and from my experience. I've been a hybrid woodworker for the last several years, but this build will be as much neander as I can.

    Anyway, that's my public commitment. Gonna build a workbench, stay tuned for updates and pictures!


    daniel
    Not all chemicals are bad. Without hydrogen or oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital ingredient in beer.

  2. #2
    Keep us posted-I don't know why more people don't try to build this work bench. Seems like an entirely rational bench to build.

    Also, I love the Roubo, but after seeing eleventy billion of them, looking at something else would be nice. Nail the proportions and it should be a good lifetime bench.

    Would love to see a nice hardwood Nicholson also, preferably something set up for actual work and not just a highly finished show piece bench...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Austin Texas
    Posts
    1,957
    SYP works just fine for me. Carry on Daniel and please post about it whenever you can.
    David

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    27,347
    Blog Entries
    1
    I wish we could get SYP out here on the left coast.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,209
    I have pretty much decided my next bench will be the Nicholson design. I will follow this with interest.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Hachet View Post
    Keep us posted-I don't know why more people don't try to build this work bench. Seems like an entirely rational bench to build.

    Also, I love the Roubo, but after seeing eleventy billion of them, looking at something else would be nice. Nail the proportions and it should be a good lifetime bench.

    Would love to see a nice hardwood Nicholson also, preferably something set up for actual work and not just a highly finished show piece bench...
    I have one with a maple top. It can be a pain sometimes without a permanent vise, but for the most part I enjoy using it.

    FB_IMG_1473895085918.jpg

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Edmond, Oklahoma
    Posts
    1,749
    Hi Daniel,

    Good to hear about your bench. Great to see folks finally get a "real" bench, and someday I hope to join you. At any rate I am looking forward to watching your progress with the project. As others have said above, please keep us up to date.

    I hope it goes well!

    Stew

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Apex, NC
    Posts
    549
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel lane View Post
    Fourth - I'm a lefty, but have been working at the right side of my bench (facing the wrong way) for a few years because of space limitations/etc. I want to figure out how I work with a real workbench before deciding where to place a leg vice.
    Wanted to clarify - I'm a lefty but work on the "righty" (left) side of the bench. Working on the actual right side will be new to me!

    Pics or it didn't happen....here's the lumber:

    IMG_0604.JPG

    You'll note that there is a mix of 2-by lumber, including some 2x4s. Since I sold my table saw last year, I decided I didn't want to get into buying all 2x10s or 2x12s and ripping them to width. I'm hoping my decision to purchase select SYP will help offset this decision.

    While I can't say I'm upset, I'm a bit disappointed that some of the pieces are dirty and/or clearly have some bark. I was told absolutely under no circumstances could I pick through the lumber (company policy, makes sense when you think about it), plus it was EXTREMELY muddy and nasty due to the snow melt. Should have waited, but got too excited at the prospect of doing this.

    My thoughts are to let the lumber dry a bit, then see about taking a brush to try to remove some of the mud and crap. I'm thinking I'd like to almost skip plane everything just to clean it up, but I expect if I do that, I'll have to replace my planer knives.

    Quick question - would it be best to start cross cutting pieces now, or wait until everything is drier? In my head, cross cutting now could minimize twist or warp and speed up drying, but for some reason I'm thinking it could be a mistake if I'm not going to start fabrication ASAP.

    Oh, and the clamps are all spread out in the background because I just unpacked them and am looking to locate my clamp racks and get them mounted. Something to do while the lumber dries! You may also note that I'm drying lumber on carpet...my basement is finished, half carpeted, half laminate flooring. The workshop will be on the laminate flooring side, mostly. Pics of that once I get more unpacked and move the exercise gear...


    d
    Last edited by daniel lane; 01-14-2017 at 9:41 AM. Reason: Adding details
    Not all chemicals are bad. Without hydrogen or oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital ingredient in beer.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    South Central Indiana
    Posts
    220
    When I made my Nicholson bench I cut all my lumber to rough length while I was letting it dry. I see no harm in doing so, although I can't vouch for it speeding up the drying time. I marked in pencil which pieces I intended for which parts so I wouldn't get confused later on. I did some planning to make sure knots and other defects ended up in invisible locations - standard practice, really, but a good habit to work into your rough sorting phase.

    BTW I'm a lefty but I worked on other peoples' RH benches for years and I decided to stick with that when I made my own bench, instead of re-learning how to plane. I'm not advocating that, everyone should build to suit themselves, however I really like sawing left-handed off the left end of the bench, with the face vise conveniently located and no tail vise in the way on the end. I really don't know how right-handers manage.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
    Posts
    7,655
    Blog Entries
    1
    I did not know there was a designer for the workbenches at Homestead Heritage when I took classes there. They look like The Nicholson Bench. At this point I'm not surprised. Paul Sellers ran the school there and the bench is an English design. It is a comfortable bench to work on.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Lafayette, Indiana
    Posts
    1,378
    I don't know about others, but from my perspective, you've done the hard part - committing to a plan and your lumber species. I spent months going back and forth. You've selected a proven design that gives lots of options for work holding. This bench is going to serve you very well. We all love a bench build, so keep the pictures and posts coming. Look forward to seeing your bench come together.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
    Posts
    7,655
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    I wish we could get SYP out here on the left coast.

    jtk
    Jim, what do you frame houses with, Fir? Finding straight SYP boards can be a challenge. House framers will saw a kerf on the bow side of a crooked stud and toe nail it thru the kerf to straighten a stud. We used to go through the house straightening studs after the house was dried in. I don't use much pine. If I do, I have to joint it prior to cutting out what ever I'm making.

    Of course, these are kiln dried framing lumber. The best rafters I ever had on a project were kiln dried fir.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Apex, NC
    Posts
    549
    Well, the lumber seems to be drying very quickly! I've got a dehumidifier in the basement because with the recent snow it was feeling a bit damp in there; I think it's helping to dry the wood quickly. I don't have a moisture meter (really need to get one...), so I may be wrong, but I'm wondering if I'll be able to start this week. Maybe I'll start with Mike's saw bench just to pass the time...
    Not all chemicals are bad. Without hydrogen or oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital ingredient in beer.

  14. #14
    Daniel, A week to dry might be too soon. I would start by calling the folks you bought the lumber from and asking if they can tell you to what percentage they kiln dry the wood. That should give you a good starting point. If it is typical construction lumber it might only be dried to 19% and that is way too wet. I would want it about half that moisture content to avoid warp, twist, shrinkage, and other problems which would play havoc with your joinery. I would sticker the lumber and wait at least 2 months even with a dehumidifier.

    If you can find out what percentage the wood was to start with you can cut off a small piece and weigh it on a very accurate digital scale. Remeasure at 1 month and then 2 months and you would get a good idea of relative moisture content from when you started. It's not real accurate, but a lot cheaper than buying a good quality moisture meter.
    Dave Anderson

    Chester, NH

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Apex, NC
    Posts
    549
    Dave, I didn't mean I thought they'd be dry in a week, but they are nowhere near as wet as they were and some of the parts can be cut and assembled still slightly wet (according to Mike). I don't see me knocking out the whole bench in a day, so I was thinking I might start cutting some of the leg parts/etc. to assemble and let them dry as an assembly. Given that lengthwise shrinking is far less of an issue than width-wise, I can get leg assemblies with stretchers assembled and they shouldn't give me too much of a problem, I wouldn't think.

    That said, I'm swamped this week with some work and likely won't be doing much next week, since the kids are on track break and we're headed out of town for a mini-holiday...so the wood will likely get at least 3-4 weeks of sitting before I do much with it.

    Update to follow once something interesting happens. (Nobody wants to sit around and watch wood dry...)
    Not all chemicals are bad. Without hydrogen or oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital ingredient in beer.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •