Any ML Camp Polarion users out there? Calling all 2k poly buffs.

[Mike Dowell]

I'm thinking of switching to 2k poly (from Envirovar), and I wondered if anyone here has much experience with Polarion? I was able to find one thread here, but didn't really go into detail about the stuff. Can it be sprayed in below 65 f? I know the conversion varnish will not cure properly in lower temps.

Any info and/or pictures of projects would be great. I'm also not stuck on ML Camp, so if you've got a 2k you like, what is it? I believe I've heard some good things about a SW product too.

[Wayne Lomman]

Just checked the data sheet and it's not recommended for below 68. I can't recommend a brand as we have different products in Australia. Do research and read the technology data sheets. Polarion is quite low in volume solids - 27%. Check that figure when comparing prices as that tells you how much paint you are left with when it is dried. Cheers

[Mike Dowell]

Just checked the data sheet and it's not recommended for below 68. I can't recommend a brand as we have different products in Australia. Do research and read the technology data sheets. Polarion is quite low in volume solids - 27%. Check that figure when comparing prices as that tells you how much paint you are left with when it is dried. Cheers

both excellent points. Thank you for the input. Do you use 2k poly?

[Jamie Buxton]

I don't use 2K poly, despite the good reports about the durability of the finish. I've been scared off by the health hazards of the isocyanates used in 2K poly. You might want to read up on it.

[Mike Dowell]

I don't use 2K poly, despite the good reports about the durability of the finish. I've been scared off by the health hazards of the isocyanates used in 2K poly. You might want to read up on it.

I wasn't aware of that. I'll have to check it out. I must say though, what about CV? That stuff is awful too. Matter of fact, isn't most of what we use in the finishing business awful in some way?

[Jamie Buxton]

I wasn't aware of that. I'll have to check it out. I must say though, what about CV? That stuff is awful too. Matter of fact, isn't most of what we use in the finishing business awful in some way?

Yes, but there are levels of awfulness in finishes. For instance, shellac outgasses alcohol, which many people are happy to drink. Varnish uses paint thinner, which isn't drinkable, but still isn't very dangerous. Higher on the danger scale, there's conversion varnish, which outgasses formaldehyde, which is a carcinogen. And there's 2K urethane, which outgasses isocyanates. In my area, the laws require commercial shops spraying CV or 2K urethane to use a certified spray booth which captures the hazardous gases before they escape to the atmosphere. Furthermore, painters spraying 2K urethane must wear haz-mat hoods, and breathe air piped in from outside the booth. No company makes respirator cartridges that they certify to protect against isocyanates.

[Wayne Lomman]

Mike, I use 2k poly all the time, both for timber work where high durability is required and as a top coat for 3 coat marine steel protection.

Now to some facts about polyurethane. Yes you do need a supplied air respirator as the spray mist contains free isocyanate. However, cured polyurethane is extremely safe and is used as the material of choice for huge numbers of food contact situations.

Further, polyurethane has been around for so long now that the health risks are well understood. You can be 100% confident that if you follow the procedures, you will be ok.

Let's consider shellac. How many of you have polished by hand for 48 weeks a year and then suffered the DT's for 3 weeks of the holidays while you dry out from alcohol absorbed through the skin?

All the newer finishes don't have polyurethane's history. Remember when DDT was safe? It takes time and a lot of other people's suffering to get it right.

Plenty more to say but that's enough. Just don't throw out the baby with the bathwater. Cheers

[Mike Dowell]

OK, so I don't have a forced air respirator, so 2k poly is out - for now. Here's a question that I thought of though: Is my OV respirator sufficient for Conversion Varnish? I spray mostly nitro lacquer, but I do, on occasion need the durability of CV.

[Jamie Buxton]

OK, so I don't have a forced air respirator, so 2k poly is out - for now. Here's a question that I thought of though: Is my OV respirator sufficient for Conversion Varnish? I spray mostly nitro lacquer, but I do, on occasion need the durability of CV.

Manufacturers do make respirator cartridges which they say will protect against formaldehyde. Check the label. Formaldhyde cartridges do have a limited lifetime, so you probably should put new ones in before you do a spray job.

Of course, the respirator works only if it seals well to your face. Cover the intakes, and inhale. If you can inhale, the respirator is not sealing. Fix that before you spray CV. And if you smell formaldehyde while you're wearing the mask, that too is telling you that you need to fix it.

And if you're spraying in a garage attached to your house, maybe spray on a day when the rest of the family is not around.