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Thread: best way/tool to remove cabinet shelf

  1. #1

    best way/tool to remove cabinet shelf

    The late-for-Christmas oven finally showed up last week, and now comes the job of installing it in the cabinet below the new cooktop!

    I'm handy with tools, but woodworking is NOT my specialty by a longshot! A couple of issues facing me: how to 'build up' the 34" wide hole so it's the needed 27-1/2" wide, and how to remove the shelf in the cabinet...

    I'm not too worried about building-up the hole, but any suggestions are welcome! I'm mostly worried about removing the shelf. These cabinets are 50 years old, solid wood and built well. The shelf has no visible means of support so I'm assuming it was side-stapled and glued-? The only way I can think of to flush-cut the shelf out would be to use a toe-kick saw, which I don't have (but maybe HD would have one for rent?) I probably don't need the sides flush cut, and maybe it it would be wise NOT to, as the bit of shelf edge left would provide a backstop for the hole filler (3/8" plywood?) But the back of the shelf may need to be flush cut for clearance. The only saw in my arsenal that might work is a jig saw, and a recip saw with a bad battery. Harbor Freight is less than a mile away, so there's that

    DSC05930.jpg DSC05929.jpg
    Last edited by Kev Williams; 01-14-2017 at 1:27 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Will the jigsaw fit into the space? I would assume if you cut the sides as closely as possible, you'll be able to bend the shelf down to break any connection at the back relatively cleanly (probably also stapled/glued). Or at least bend the shelf down far enough to be able to lever the shelf away from the back

  3. #3
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    If I removing that shelf, I'd use the jigsaw to cut from front to back, all the way through the existing shelf, about four inches from a side. I would then bend that short section remaining, (4" piece), up and down, which will either pop it loose, or reveal if there are mechanical fasteners such as nails or screws installed. Do the same for the other end as well.

    If the ends don't come loose, you should be able to determine the location of any screws that are still holding it. If connected by nails, a prybar behind the piece will get it loose. If still held by screws, you can use the jigsaw, with appropriate blade, to cut straight towards, or just next to the fastener making these cuts will allow you to split the shelf portion away from the fastener. Repeat until you've removed all portions of the shelf. If you have all the shelf removed and end up with nails or screws sticking out from the cabinet sides, you can cut these off using an angle grinder with a cutoff blade, (that trip to Harbor Freight maybe). Seeing as your going to be installing the oven, the cutoff ends will never be seen. If the oven has enough clearance from the side, this last step may be unnecessary, but I'd probably do it to make sure I didn't catch myself, or something else, on any protruding fasteners.

    Good luck.

  4. #4
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    I was guessing it had a dado joint, but perhaps not. If you are correct about nails, I would try to use an oscillating multi-tool like a Fein, Bosch, or many other varieties. You could attempt to figure out where they use nails and only cut in those areas. It will offer a flush cut you wouldn't have to try to repair.
    Last edited by Rich Riddle; 01-14-2017 at 5:09 PM.

  5. #5
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    I agree with Rich. I would use an oscillating multi-tool. I have the Dremel model only because when I needed one, it was the only thing in town.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Riddle View Post
    I was guessing it had a dado joint, but perhaps not. If you are correct about nails, I would try to use an oscillating multi-tool like a Fein, Bosch, or many other varieties. You could attempt to figure out where they use nails and only cut in those areas. It will offer a flush cut you wouldn't have to try to repair.
    Looking at the closeup on the second picture, it does appear to be housed in a dado joint on the sides. It might lever out with the way I described still if such. An oscillating multitool will work as well. If you run into a screw, that will be some tough cutting. If it's a hardened screw, such as a drywall screw, it may trash the blades on the multitool, so make sure you've got some replacements. If you're going to cut the entire side joint using a multitool, you'll be at it for a while, but it will do it. Wear some ear protection, it'll get loud doing that inside the cabinet.

    I've done similar work both ways in the past. Have found it easier, and quicker, using the first method I described, but agree that the multitool should get it done as well, albeit a bit slower.

    Once again, good luck with whichever method you attempt.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Riddle View Post
    I was guessing it had a dado joint, but perhaps not. If you are correct about nails, I would try to use an oscillating multi-tool like a Fein, Bosch, or many other varieties. You could attempt to figure out where they use nails and only cut in those areas. It will offer a flush cut you wouldn't have to try to repair.
    If there is no dado, this is the way to go. An offset blade will give a clean cut with very little surface marring.

  8. #8
    Thanks for the ideas! I have 2 oscillating multi-tools, a Ryobi and a HF unit, they just happen to be 30 miles away so I didn't even think about them!

    I'm pretty sure the shelf is stapled not screwed since the faces plates above the doors are just stapled on. I think I'll try the jigsaw and pry-out method first and see how that goes--
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  9. #9
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    This is what I would probably do, too...cut out the majority and break/pry out the rest. Worst case, a flexible flush-cut saw like those from Lee Valley can be used to clean things up.

    Quote Originally Posted by Clint Baxter View Post
    If I removing that shelf, I'd use the jigsaw to cut from front to back, all the way through the existing shelf, about four inches from a side. I would then bend that short section remaining, (4" piece), up and down, which will either pop it loose, or reveal if there are mechanical fasteners such as nails or screws installed. Do the same for the other end as well.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
    Thanks for all the advice everyone --

    Turned out to be much easier than I anticipated. I picked up a recip saw, and first cut out the door and panel stuff. Then I cut the shelf down the sides leaving about 2". Pulling the saw up carefully while cutting, I was able to saw right to the back wall. Soon as I got the second cut done, the shelf simply fell off, it was only stapled.

    Then removed the down-draft vent pipe, then I re-routed the power from behind the cabinet to the right side. I created a new opening with 1/4x4" poplar backed with some 1x3's. The oven slid in easily and fit like a glove.

    Just need to hide the screws, find some matching stain and call Christmas done!
    oven1.jpgoven2.jpg
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  11. #11
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    Kev,

    Instead of buying stain, you might make a bit of your own stain. You can always add a little more tint to your formula and "sneak up" on matching it. You did save a bit of the excess cut-off wood to try the stain on before the real pieces, didn't you?

  12. #12
    Yeah I have test pieces, but I have no idea how to make my own stain! The little cans of Minwax are $4-something at HD, I was just going to take a faceplate in and get something close
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  13. #13
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    Mar 2012
    Location
    Virginia and Kentucky
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    Kev,

    I have limited knowledge on how to make stain. I prefer to make/use oil based stain since mineral spirits can quickly get rid of it. There are other advantages. Water based stains are not as forgiving. Alcohol based dries too fast. Go to the finishing forum for better advice.....

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