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Thread: Should a buy a Delta Bandsaw model # 28-203 for $300

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    We all know Delta's parts woes but there is practically nothing on this saw that can't be easily replaced or upgraded through a number of parts source. You might have trouble if you need a major casting and the OEM fences are rather rare but outside of that they have the greatest aftermarket parts availability of any non current production saw.
    Not everyone knows about Delta's new owners and their business decisions. I think it is important for anyone who is contemplating buying used (or new!) Delta equipment to realize that the company doesn't support their older equipment. I have seen an example where a relatively new Delta drum sander is gathering dust rather than making it due to the lack of availability of a poorly designed part. It is worth making the effort to identify alternative sources of repair parts before buying.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Art Mann View Post
    Not everyone knows about Delta's new owners and their business decisions. I think it is important for anyone who is contemplating buying used (or new!) Delta equipment to realize that the company doesn't support their older equipment. I have seen an example where a relatively new Delta drum sander is gathering dust rather than making it due to the lack of availability of a poorly designed part. It is worth making the effort to identify alternative sources of repair parts before buying.
    I don't disagree that people need to know this, I certainly overstated the knowledge of the issue. The reality is not a lot of manufacturers maintain parts for 20 year old machines at least ones they don't continue to build today. The key is with Delta 14" saws and the clones there isn't a lot you can replace on them very simply. There are a lot of Delta machines I would not buy based on parts availability including anything from them new, this bandsaw doesn't fall into that category.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  3. #18
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    Yes. I have seen a lot of very old saws of this type that have never needed anything but an occasional tire replacement. Also, the Grizzly G0555 is pretty much a copy of the Delta and I understand some of the parts are interchangeable. I can't say I am sure because I haven't tried it.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Art Mann View Post
    Yes. I have seen a lot of very old saws of this type that have never needed anything but an occasional tire replacement. Also, the Grizzly G0555 is pretty much a copy of the Delta and I understand some of the parts are interchangeable. I can't say I am sure because I haven't tried it.

    A few parts interchange between Delta and the imports but far fewer than one would think just looking at them. The imports however have a wider number that interchange but it is still far from universal.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  5. #20
    I now have the bandsaw and I've been learning to tune it. I notice there is a little vibration with it and I have been online looking for tips to eliminate this. One tip I have seen is to change to a link belt. How does reduce vibration? Are there any other changes that I can make?
    Last edited by Rick Pinzon; 01-16-2017 at 9:58 AM.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Pinzon View Post
    I now have the bandsaw and I've been learning to tune it. I notice there is a little vibration with it and I have been online looking for tips to eliminate this. One tip I have seen is to change to a link belt. How does reduce vibration? Are there any other changes that I can make?
    What you need to do is narrow down the cause of the vibration. Start by removing the blade and if it runs with no vibration you have eliminated the band and upper wheel assembly. Try that and report and we can go from there. However, my gut tells me it is likely one of three things, a poorly welded band or either the belt or tires have taken a set from not being used for a while both of which may resolve themselves after a little running.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  7. #22
    IMG_0064.jpg
    Here is a photo of the saw.

  8. #23
    I will remove the blade and try that first but what do you mean by the "band"? I assume you mean the blade?

  9. #24
    by the way, as you can see in the photo, its a closed base and also came with a rolling base.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Pinzon View Post
    I will remove the blade and try that first but what do you mean by the "band"? I assume you mean the blade?

    Yes sorry, band = blade.

    You did well, looks to be in great condition and included the fence which a lot of the do not.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  11. #26
    I removed the belt and I don't believe it made much difference. After examining it closer I don't think it made a difference but maybe the vibration is normal for a power tool and I am being paranoid or expecting too much. Too further desribe, it barely fails the nickel test. The nickel will fall when I start the machine but can balance it while it is on but only after using my surgically steady hands. Also I placed a metal ruler edge against the top side edge of the upper door. My guess is the vibration or wobble is about 1/16 of an inch. Also I notice when the belt is on and running, the blade moves from front to back about 1/32 -1/16 of an inch. That is also visually apparent watching the blade track on the wheels

  12. #27
    I removed the belt and I don't believe it made much difference. After examining it closer I don't think it made a difference but maybe the vibration is normal for a power tool and I am being paranoid or expecting too much. Too further desribe, it barely fails the nickel test. The nickel will fall when I start the machine but can balance it while it is on but only after using my surgically steady hands. Also I placed a metal ruler edge against the top side edge of the upper door. My guess is the vibration or wobble is about 1/16 of an inch. Also I notice when the belt is on and running, the blade moves from front to back about 1/32 -1/16 of an inch. That is also visually apparent watching the blade track on the wheels

  13. #28
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    Rick ... you got a great deal. That's a complete, and great little machine with many of the bells and whistles that I wish I had on my unit.
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  14. #29
    Thanks. Just trying to get the blade to stop moving front and back

  15. #30
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    Is this a new blade or one that came with the saw and is it the only blade you have now? That sort of motion is often connected to a blade that has a weld that isn't perfectly straight. Inspect the weld and you may want to think about trying another blade since you probably want to get some different types of blades soon anyway. How wide is the current blade?
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

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