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Thread: Pocket Hole Drilling Question

  1. #1

    Pocket Hole Drilling Question

    On my last project I started to get ragged edges around the hole. I tried different ways to drill the hole. Fast and pushing hard and drilling slow all gave the same poor results. I was using a Dewalt battery drill and thought rpm's could be the problem. Also I went and bought a new bit and got the same bad results. I read on the new bit package that the bit needed to be 2300 rpm ( I think)
    I went and bought a new corded 2500 RPM 3/8 Dewalt Drill. Problem still there. It first showed up on plywood and I have tested oak, maple, hickory and plywood. Some holes drill fine with a smooth edge hole. But for most cases I still get a splintered edge around the hole. I am using a aluminum jig I bought from Harbor Freights several years ago. I have a Kreg Jig but I like the Harbor Freight one better. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can improve on drilling the hole?
    Thanks
    Johnny

  2. #2
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    I had this problem. Sent my bits into Kreg to be re-sharpened, problem went away.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  3. #3
    Are you saying that a new Kreg bit needs to be sharpened? Is it a factory defect? Did I just get unlucky when I bought the new bit and got a bad one?
    Thanks

  4. #4
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    No, just reporting my results. I should have said I was using the Kreg jig also. I wonder if there is wear on the guide on the surface of your jig where it contacts the work. Maybe there is not a good shearing action where the bit exits the wood and enters the guide. My frayed material was on both sides of the hole and once I had the resharpened bit in use I realized what my problem was. Since your problem occurs even with a new Kreg bit I would suspect the mating surface at jig and material.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  5. #5
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    What kreg jig do you own? K4 or 5 or a cheapy? Kreg has a hardened guide meant for a steel bit. Steel bit in a non hardened jig is going to have run out.

  6. #6
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    I use the cheap little 2 hole Kreg clamp on jig and I have used it to drill over 500 holes. I know because I buy screws in that quantity. I have not experienced a run-out problem and I have never sharpened the bit. I think the bit is getting dull because it doesn't cut as cleanly as it used to and it is harder to make the hole. I can't find any wear nor have I experienced any run-out with the jig. I get better results with a high speed plug-in drill but I have used a cordless drill fairly often too. I am not too worried about a slightly ragged hole because I never use pocket screws where they can be seen.
    Last edited by Art Mann; 01-15-2017 at 11:17 PM.

  7. #7
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    I use the kreg drill bit in the kreg jig. I don't recall having ragged holes except a couple of times and I think it was the wood. You might drill a hole in a piece of wood using both bits and compare the results.

  8. #8
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    I still use a 7 year old Kreg jig, modified with an air cylinder and foot petal. I rarely get burrs on the holes but its always in softer woods like alder and poplar. I'd say your Harbor Freight model is wore out and the bit is no longer tight in the guide hole.

    I buy cheap bits from China in bulk. They last a while unless I get a hickory job.
    -Lud

  9. #9
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    I've seen fuzz at the edges of the holes in softer woods like pine and poplar. Your clamping pressure may be too light. I get cleaner holes with my original diecast with drill bushing Keg jig than I do with the newer plastic Kreg jig.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  10. #10
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    I get fuzz on occasion, but mostly when drilling cross-grain instead of with the grain, and more on soft wood than hard. Light sanding (which needs to be done anyway)usually makes it vanish.

  11. #11
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    I also get the fuzz in my old single-hole Kreg jig. Last two woods I used it on were post oak and walnut and both had ragged edges on the up-cut side, but both were cross-grain. I think this has always happened when I've drilled cross-grain, but I've had it for ~10 years and honestly don't remember how it behaved when new. I just fold the fibers down into the hole and make a couple of passes with 150-220 grit and they disappear. Fine for drilling a few holes on occasion, but would be a bother if I had very many to do. Don't think clamping pressure has been an issue, but I'll check next time.

  12. #12
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    I get fuss on occasion as well depending on what wood it is and which grain direction I drill into.

  13. #13
    I agree with Earl. The occasional light fuzz should be ignored because it will disappear when you sand. And if it doesn't, you can address then. I hide the holes whenever possible so it makes the fuzz less significant anyway.

  14. #14
    Thanks for the replies..I am on vacation for the winter in my 5th wheel camper so I can not check my HF jig for wear and tear. However, I have not used it that much so I don't suspect that to be the problem. If you know much about a fifth wheel camper the steps going up to to the bedroom are very tall and there are only two. (ruff on my 65 YO legs) So I took some yellow pine (2X8) and had to make a glue line for the large step. I stained them and used poly. I just laid the pieces on the existing steps and one on the floor.(two pcs of yellow pine) I now have three and it works great. For some reason I thought it would be good to use a few pocket holes on the larger one. Now since I have read what Earl pointed out the holes are across the grain and that has me thinking. Most of the time when I do PH's on face frames I drill them with the grain. On the yellow pine steps the fuzz is not the problem. the pine splits in length away from the hole about 1/2 inch. And yes I get it about people saying the PH's are not to be seen anyway. They will never be seen on the steps. I have learned alot from the replies and thank you all. Now I just need to do some test and make nice PH's on plywood. In building kitchen cabs what is the best way to attach the face frame to the plywood boxes? The few I have built I used PH's and they were some what hidden unless you stick you head in the opening. I need to design them where the holes will be on the outside and covered up by the next section...any suggestions on attaching face frames will be appreciated.
    Thanks
    Johnny

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