Leigh RTJ400 router table dovetail jig

[Robert Chapman]

I just bought on of these jigs which seems really well constructed and I like the idea of using the jig on my router table. However, I am getting ready to use it and after reading the instructions it seems like the use of the jig is not very user friendly. The instructions are complex and extensive.

I'm interested in the experiences of users. Am I over reacting before I actually use this tool?

[Ryan Jones]

I don't own the Leigh, but I have the more simple Porter Cable Dovetail Jig. Even the PC was a lot to setup properly and get good results with. But once you understand it, it goes quicker.

My suggestion is practice on lots of plywood.

[Andy Giddings]

I have the D4R and there is a lot to read and understand with most dovetail jigs. Have you looked at the Leigh videos on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGxGpn6PjCo? Sometimes watching is easier than reading. Getting any dovetail jig setup for a particular thickness material is the painful part. Once that's done, rattling off a load of drawers is trivial

[John Lankers]

I own the RTJ 400 for a year and a half now (since it first hit the market). I cut all the half blind dovetails for the drawers in a large kitchen with it. It performs very well when you follow the instructions and fine tuning the setup for a good fitting joint was relatively easy. However, I wasn't careful at one time and nicked one of the plastic stops with the spinning bit. The adjustable bushing guarantees a perfect fit.
Bottom line: I like it.

[John Lanciani]

The instructions are complex and extensive...

This is exactly why Leigh stands at the top of the pack; they have the best and most thorough instructions for all of their jigs. Get some practice material and walk through it step by step and I suspect that you will be pleased with the result.

[Len Rosenberg]

I bought one and agree there is a learning curve. It helps to watch the Leigh videos. One thing I learned that is mentioned in the instructions but not emphasized enough is that when you move the jig into the spinning router bit, which is done free-hand, the jig MUST move exactly perpendicular (90 degrees) to the bit. If you are off by even a half degree or more, the joints will not fit properly. I recommend a fair bit of practice before cutting the real thing.

[Wade Lippman]

I bought one and agree there is a learning curve. It helps to watch the Leigh videos. One thing I learned that is mentioned in the instructions but not emphasized enough is that when you move the jig into the spinning router bit, which is done free-hand, the jig MUST move exactly perpendicular (90 degrees) to the bit. If you are off by even a half degree or more, the joints will not fit properly. I recommend a fair bit of practice before cutting the real thing.

I have one, and while I haven't used it much, my results were perfect. I haven't made any effort to move it exactly perpendicular. I can't see why that would be important. It cuts away everything not shielded by the guide; why would your motion matter?

[Len Rosenberg]

Wade, I didn't see why it would matter either, but eventually figured out that it relates to the eccentric cam bushing used to fine tune the fit. The fit is perfect only if you move the jig 90 degrees to the cam bushing. If you move it at an angle to the bushing, it has the same effect as changing the cam angle itself, which makes the fit tighter or looser. That's why the instructions direct the user to move the jig 90 degrees to the bushing, but it doesn't explain why, and only mentions it one time. I like the jig for two reasons. One, I find it safer to move wood in a jig over a bit on a router table, than moving a router in and out of a jig clamped to the wood. But the main reason is my router table has nearly 100% dust collection (it's an Excalibur hooked up to an Oneida DC). My other jigs (Keller Dovetail) are very accurate and easy to set up, but five minutes of routing require 30 minutes of vacuuming the shop.

[Wade Lippman]

Wade, I didn't see why it would matter either, but eventually figured out that it relates to the eccentric cam bushing used to fine tune the fit. The fit is perfect only if you move the jig 90 degrees to the cam bushing.

That makes sense. Perhaps I kept it square without knowing it. Thanks.

[Robert Chapman]

Thanks guys- I appreciate the advice. I will crank up my patience and follow the instructions carefully with some scrap pieces before I use the Birdseye and Curly maple.

[Mike Goetzke]

I've had several DT jigs over the years (HF, Rockler, Incra, and P-C LARGE jig) and actually found the RTJ400 the easiest to dial in. One thing that I did not like was that I could not see the cut well since the work piece is between you and the bit and I have a relatively tall router table. I ended up mounting a mirror to my RT fence and now can see the cut/bit easily.

Good Luck,

Mike