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Thread: Mitered Cabinet Doors

  1. #16
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    Just for the record,
    I have a doweling jig, mortice pal, and biscuit joiner. I use all of them on occasion, but favor the mortice pal. In chair building, I need strength and alignment. Biscuits might be used in cabinet doors, but I tend to use mortice and tenon.

    I also will use hand cut dove tails.

  2. #17
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    Domino is excellent (but expensive) option here. Spline is good too but if you use solid wood for the spline (instead of ply) make sure the orientation of the grain is perpendicular to the length of the spline (or else it is very weak).

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wasner View Post
    If you've wanted a domino, this would be an excellent application for one on a small scale.
    That"s a great idea. But I can't swing it. It's a shame though, because I want to get one for chairs I would like to make down the road.

    Please excuse my ignorance, but isn't a domino a thick biscuit? I read all the time how great they are. Is the thickness of the insert the reason for the significant quality increase? I do umderstand the increased precision of Festool tools.

  4. #19
    One trick I've used in a pinch is to make a half thickness butt jointed frame then glue a second mitered frame on top. The result is basically a quick and dirty version of a half-lap joint. All the strength without the set-up.

  5. #20
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    Dowels and Dominos are both "loose tenons". Biscuits are somewhat the same at a base level if you think about it. In all cases, you're cutting a recess in the wood and putting a piece of something into the recess to help align and reinforce the joint while gluing it together.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    One trick I've used in a pinch is to make a half thickness butt jointed frame then glue a second mitered frame on top. The result is basically a quick and dirty version of a half-lap joint. All the strength without the set-up.
    That's actually a very interesting way to do this and if you are using the same species for the layers with identical grain direction. I would propose that if you use three layers, you'd get an even stronger joint because it would be similar to a bridle joint in most respects. Of course, you need to press it together well. Alternatively do your butt joints with pocket screws and hide said pocket screws with the mitered overlay. So many ways to do this!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mreza Salav View Post
    Domino is excellent (but expensive) option here. Spline is good too but if you use solid wood for the spline (instead of ply) make sure the orientation of the grain is perpendicular to the length of the spline (or else it is very weak).
    Just to be clear, don't you mean "parallel"? The grain should run longitudinally, i.e., across the joint?

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Moyer View Post
    Just to be clear, don't you mean "parallel"? The grain should run longitudinally, i.e., across the joint?
    Nope, I meant what I wrote. For a long spline, say 1" wide and 3" long and 3/16" thick which goes 1/2" deep into each miter edge, is better to have its grain running perpendicular to
    its length (which means perpendicular to the edge of the joint). The spline is likely to break along it's long edge and you want the grain be perpendicular to that.
    It will act like a shallow but wide tenon this way....

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by mreza Salav View Post
    Nope, I meant what I wrote. For a long spline, say 1" wide and 3" long and 3/16" thick which goes 1/2" deep into each miter edge, is better to have its grain running perpendicular to
    its length (which means perpendicular to the edge of the joint). The spline is likely to break along it's long edge and you want the grain be perpendicular to that.
    It will act like a shallow but wide tenon this way....
    Would you consider keeping the spline thickness to 1/8" or less to eliminate the variable of wood movement?
    It's hard to imagine wood movement in something as small as a spline, but any movement at all is enough to undermine the spline's purpose in life and turn it from a friend into a troublemaker.
    The spline doesn't need to be particularly thick to do its job of holding the joint together. Many people cut the slot on a table saw so I usually see miter splines the thickness of the saw kerf.

  10. #25
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    Lots of good suggestion already so I won't repeat, rather I offer a far less craftsmanship alternative - long finish screws. Two in from the stiles one in from the rails. Of course make certain your joint when glued up is tight and clamp a sandwich of wood strips top and bottom face (that still allow you a peak at the joint. These strips will insure that the joint doesn't move as you set the screws. Even with finish screws (I really like GRKs) you should pre bore a pilot hole and for hard wood also slightly enlarge the hole where the screw head will land as the screw head could mushroom or split your wood.

    NOW - I would never build cabinet doors this way (I would not typically build mitered corners doors or panels in any event) but if I were repairing one or two that had loose corners that were otherwise solid, or as in this case making up a few doors to match without other tools available, this might be a viable alternative.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  11. #26
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    Thanks again for all the ideas. I'm leaning toward the half lap miters. I made myself a nice miter sled for my table saw last night. Gonna do a few test runs over the weekend.

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