Flat Bottoms on Platters

[John K Jordan]

So a question about the plates in the second picture. What are the approximate dimensions? Did you turn a round plate and then cut the sides off with a bandsaw to make the rectangular shape? Just wondering. I like the looks of them. thanks

Thank you! These are about 9" across, a good size for a table, shelf or counter. I've made some 18-19" platters and frankly, we don't use them too often since they are so big. Besides, these are quicker to turn than a big platter.

I made one and liked the design and the way the foot raised it off the table (and my Lovely Bride likes it!) so I made more - mostly for wedding presents or to give to friends. This one from figured maple I gave to a friend in Italy who hosted us and gave us the insider tour of northern Italy. (and I gave the one made from walnut burl for her mother who taught us some genuine northern Italian cooking!)

I've posted this before but here it is again...



I've used a variety of woods, eastern red cedar, maple, cherry, basswood (for chip carving), walnut burl. I plan to do one soon from olive and some from sapele, canary wood, dogwood, and more cherry and cedar.

I cut to outer shape before turning for several reasons. One, I can use a narrower board - I can use a 10" wide board for this size. Cutting to a line drawn on a flat surface is easier than trying to cut after it is turned. Also, if cut after turning there is a chance of chipping the rim. And importantly, if I can see the rim I can more easily shape the inside to match the outside and give a more pleasing uniform thickness at the rim. If I turned round then cut the outline it would be easy to get this "wrong", too thick or thin in the middle of a side. (unless that's the intent!) Getting the rim uniform is easier with a shallower dish shape.

I generally start with a 2" thick dry wood, draw the outside shape using a template I made, then cut the outline with the bandsaw, smoothing a bit with a disk sander. I drill a hole in the top for a screw chuck, turn a recess in the base for a chuck and turn and scrape/sand as needed. (I add enough detail to the bottom of the foot to distract the eye from the fact I'm leaving the recess there - it looks like it's part of the design.)

After the bottom is done I turn it around and mount it in a chuck and do the top side.

Since I'm cutting air towards the outside the scrapers really come in handy on the wings. They clean up the inevitable ripples so well I can usually start with 400 grit or occasionally 350, sanding mostly off the lathe, with the grain. I use 2" wide sanding sticks to soften the rim before I take it off the lathe. BTW, if anyone has not made some of these, they are incredibly handy at the lathe.

sanding_blocks.jpg

Also, when sanding the flatter surfaces on things like this I found the perfect sanding block - a white Magic Rub eraser! Perfect size for me to grip and flexible for gentle curves.

sanding_soft_block.jpg

I finish with sanding sealer, oil, beeswax for the cedar, and sometimes TruOil.

BTW, this design was inspired by good friend Frank Penta's squarish plates with with laminated strips. However, he makes his from 4/4 which sat low on the table (like a real plate should!) and usually a little flatter on the sides: http://www.frankpenta.com/index.php/...ht-inch-plates When I showed some to him this design got the Penta a-Proval! Frank is a wonderful person, turner, and teacher. He has lots how-to documents on his web site, some by some of his "guys." http://www.frankpenta.com/index.php/projects

That was probably more than you wanted to know but I get carried away easily! (and someone might be interested)

JKJ

[Justin Stephen]

BTW, this design was inspired by good friend Frank Penta's squarish plates with with laminated strips. However, he makes his from 4/4 which sat low on the table (like a real plate should!) and usually a little flatter on the sides: http://www.frankpenta.com/index.php/...ht-inch-plates When I showed some to him this design got the Penta a-Proval! Frank is a wonderful person, turner, and teacher. He has lots how-to documents on his web site, some by some of his "guys." http://www.frankpenta.com/index.php/projects

I went to Frank's talk at the Virginia Symposium this year. As impressive as his laminations are (and they are indeed), I was just as marveled by some of the nice shapes of his platters.

[Tim Passmore]

Fabulous work John! Thanks for the tips.

[Dean S Walker]

Excellent work John those are gorgeous. I 2nd the hand scrapers, I also use files a lot to finish the very tips of handles/spindles. I know this is a bowl question but I have found that anything you can cut rather than sand generally turns out better.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Like Brian Zawatsky, when I get close to the final cut I take a wide scraper that has a very slight curve on the cutting edge, so not straight, I then take a very thin shaving with my hand sliding along the toolrest, feel and do it again.

Then with the lathe spinning I feel where the higher and lower areas are and just touch the edges with a pencil of the higher area while the lathe is still spinning, taking a light cut and again feel, that slight curve on the end of your scraper can clean and flatten a platter.

Though a platter with a slight curved inside is easier to make than an exact flat surface .

This is a 12” Oregon Myrtle platter/tray I made, and yes it is flat smooth and beautiful .

Oregon Myrtle.jpg