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Thread: Festool TS 75 EQ

  1. #1

    Festool TS 75 EQ

    I'm going to look at a used TS75 EQ and was wondering if this sounds like a good deal for $700?

    I have an extra Festool Track Saw that has only been used a couple dozen times. It is like new. It comes with the following:

    - Track Saw TS75 EQ (purchased new for $780)
    - Festool Systainer (included with tracksaw)
    - 75" Guide Rail (included with tracksaw)
    - 32" Guide Rail (purchased new for $85)
    - Guide Rail Connector (purchased new for $18)
    Total New: $883. You can have it all for $700 OBO.

    Also, is there anything specific I should look for when I see it in person?
    As always, TIA.
    Sincerely, Dave.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by david mcintyre View Post
    I'm going to look at a used TS75 EQ and was wondering if this sounds like a good deal for $700?
    Not much of a discount, but then there rarely is (at least in my area) for Festool. Pros - you will no doubt save more on no sales tax. Cons - likely limited warranty, no 30 day NQA returns, no t-shirt.
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  3. #3
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    I don't see a blade listed as included.

  4. #4
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    If it has a good blade included it is about what you would expect to pay for one kept like the average hobbyist who drinks green Koolaid and by that I mean it is immaculate. Despite the high resale price Festool commands most owners take very good care of them.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  5. #5
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    Check the clear strip on the guide rails to make sure it's in good condition and the blade lines up to it. Replacing those will run you $50+. Check to make sure the rails are straight, your cuts are only as straight as your rails. If the rails are bent or damaged, walk away, that will be a good sign of how he treats his tool. Make sure the plug-it cord is in good condition. Check to make sure the inserts are still there in the systainer. Put the saw on the rails and run it back and fourth a few times to ensure smooth travel. Lastly, turn the saw on and run it for a few seconds, let the saw talk to you and listen to what it has to say. A little rattle on startup is normal, but it should run and sound smooth once up to speed.

  6. #6
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    I push that "OBO" and see how much lower you could get it.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  7. #7
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    One other thing if you have never heard a Festool tracksaw start up you may want to try to before evaluating this one. Due to the back EMF circuitry they sound AWFUL when they first start.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  8. #8
    It's the gears inside, constantly monitoring the blade speed no matter how slow or fast you cut.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    It's the gears inside, constantly monitoring the blade speed no matter how slow or fast you cut.
    The infamous growl has nothing to do with the gears in the saw. If you run full sine AC directly through the brushes to the rotor it will sound just like any other universal motor. The growl comes from the electronic motor controller that clips the sine wave going to the field windings. It uses closed loop sensing to adjust the RMS voltage going to the field windings (V max remains the same) by clipping the waveform to keep the motor spinning at a constant speed. The initial change in the sound of the saw on startup is a result of feeding full sine AC to both the field and rotor until it gets up to speed, at this point the controller starts clipping the sine wave, going to the field windings, to hold the speed at the pre-set rpm. When you load the motor the controller will clip the waveform later and later (closer to full sine) to increase RMS voltage to continue to hold to the same rpm as the no load rpm, this is based on the closed loop sensing.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  10. #10
    FWIW, I just lost out on the same saw with 1900/2 rails for $500 in excellent condition because I was out of town!

  11. #11
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    Look at the condition of the blade. The OEM supplied blade is about $80-$90 dollars. If it's only been used a dozen times, it should be pretty good.


    I have the same saw, and it is a great saw. If you live in a state that collects sales tax, be sure to factor that into your savings. $700.00 seems maybe a little high, but that's probably because I already own one.
    If the ad says OBO, you can always offer less and come up. Don't go too crazy though.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  12. #12
    Thanks everyone for the replies. It does come with the blade and all original accessories. Sincerely, Dave.


  13. #13
    David,

    One thing that no one has mentioned - what will you be using it for? If breaking down sheet goods, the TS75 may not be the best option. A TS55 is typically considered to the better option for that.

    OTOH, if cutting thick hardwood, the TS75 is probably better. Bigger blade and more ooomph.

    Consider your needs first. Bigger may (or may NOT) be better. Good luck with your decision.

    Regards,

    Dan.
    It's amazing what you can accomplish in the 11th hour, 59 minute of any project. Ya just have to keep your eye on the goal.

  14. #14
    I've got the TS75, which I bought for breaking down sheet goods; but have also used it for straight line ripping. Since you aren't actually lifting the saw much for breaking the sheet goods, I don't see the added weight as much of a problem. The one issue is that it does take more room forward/back of the cut than the TS55, so if you have a 55" guide rail, it is *barely* enough to crosscut a 48" sheet.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    The infamous growl has nothing to do with the gears in the saw. If you run full sine AC directly through the brushes to the rotor it will sound just like any other universal motor. The growl comes from the electronic motor controller that clips the sine wave going to the field windings. It uses closed loop sensing to adjust the RMS voltage going to the field windings (V max remains the same) by clipping the waveform to keep the motor spinning at a constant speed. The initial change in the sound of the saw on startup is a result of feeding full sine AC to both the field and rotor until it gets up to speed, at this point the controller starts clipping the sine wave, going to the field windings, to hold the speed at the pre-set rpm. When you load the motor the controller will clip the waveform later and later (closer to full sine) to increase RMS voltage to continue to hold to the same rpm as the no load rpm, this is based on the closed loop sensing.
    I think I almost understood part of that :-)

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