Worksharp 3000 question

[Mark Carlson]

I bought the platform and use that with a mkII honing guide. I dont use the port anymore. I've also switched to diamond plates versus the sandpaper. I get results I'm very happy with.

[Sam Beagle]

I bought the worksharp for chisels as well. I couldn't get them where I wanted them. Serviceable, but not shaving quality. Then I got a tormek. WOW!!!! That's the real deal. I now only use the worksharp for back flattening.

[Paul F Franklin]

Look for the thread(s) here about using diamond lapping disks with the worksharp. They are not very expensive and IMO make an amazing difference in the speed and quality of the worksharp. Worksharp is missing a bet not selling them.

[Dave Zellers]

I guess I got lucky with my WorkSharp 3000. The port gives a perfect square cut. For a really quick new bevel or a quick touch up on an existing bevel it's awesome when time is your enemy and/or you're not doing something or using something super special. For example, my A2 or PM-V11 irons from Lee Valley will never touch my WorkSharp. I don't even want them close to each other . Plus, I'd be very careful using a WorkSharp to flatten backs on expensive tools. It spins so fast, you could pass a point of no return very quickly. I wish there was a way to cut the speed in half. I agree that the diamond disks are awesome. Given that the WS is locked into 5º increments, it's quick and easy to establish a primary bevel at say 25º and then go to the stones and set your honing jig at 26º to just work on the edge.

The leather disk for the WS is possibly the best thing about it. Or not. There are lots of good things about it. But there is also an entire sharpening world that exists beyond it. I've just entered that space and it's exciting and expensive.

[mreza Salav]

I use Workshop and usually followed by sand paper on flat surface. I find the workshop wobbles too much. First I thought it was the first machine I got.
Then they sent me another machine (after complaining) and it was the same. I notice it when I push the chisels to sharpen, I don't hear a continuous sound of contact.

[Dave Zellers]

I use Workshop and usually followed by sand paper on flat surface. I find the workshop wobbles too much. First I thought it was the first machine I got.
Then they sent me another machine (after complaining) and it was the same. I notice it when I push the chisels to sharpen, I don't hear a continuous sound of contact.

These reports are very interesting to me because that is certainly not my experience- it was good right out of the box. It's a shame really because I bet a small bit more of quality control would fix these issues and user satisfaction would be higher and they would sell many more.

[glenn bradley]

I use a variety of sharpening methods. When I use the WS3K I use the port up to 3600. I then use a 4000 and 8000 diamond plate from the top followed by a leather strop wheel. I made my own "wide blade" base and it worked well.

WS3K-Wide-Table 003.jpgWS3K-Wide-Table-plane-iron-.jpg

I caught a bargain on the commercially available base and got that. It is a little less bulky but, not superior to a shop made base if that is what you want to do. I did find their honing guide inferior to the MKII but, certainly not a piece of junk by any means.

The "wide base" needs to be tweaked during sharpening if you start from the top with a lower grit. The difference in grit and abrasive backing thickness can cause finer grits to end up working the heel. If you go to the top for finer grits with similar backings I don't find the difference enough to bother me. It is nice to be able to go from the WS3K to diamond plates with the same guide. I just free hand the microbevel while the iron is still in the jig.

[Prashun Patel]

You don't need to go with stones. I just like to work that way.

Ymmv but I would be careful flattening backs on the worksharp. It is tricky.

[Guy Dotan]

I use that final grit to add the secondary bevel as well (requires a light touch).

How do you add a secondary bevel? Simply go up 5 degrees and plunge?

[Dave Zellers]

Yes. Gently.

[Dan Schocke]

How do you add a secondary bevel? Simply go up 5 degrees and plunge?

That's what I do, but it has to be a very light plunge or you get a pretty large bevel pretty quickly. Probably safer to do this on a stone, but so far the WS3000 has done a good enough job for me.

--Dan

[Jim Dwight]

I bought an extra disk and extra fine paper but I don't hardly ever use it. It seems to me that the chisels are fine with the stock grits and all the finer grits do is make the edge shiny. I shave with razors, not my chisels. When they are sharp enough to do good work, I think it's time to stop and do the work. I've used water stones and have a motorized water stone but I like the Worksharp the best. Seems like I get a good servable edge the quickest with it. But I tend to chip my tools occasionally (I am definitely hard on chisels) and may get a grinder to use with chipped tools.

[Jeff Leimberger]

I find that I have to go to the 6000 grit to get an acceptable edge. Unfortunately, for my wallet, I had a eureka moment not long after buying it, its accessories, and plenty of glass plates and now sharpen mostly by hand. If I was to find a bunch of old chisels for cheap, I would probably clear it off and use it to get most of the way to a keen edge.

[Rich Riddle]

I found exactly the same thing. The chisels get serviceable using the Worksharp, but not super sharp. I did build the caddy and noticed some improvement with that.

I bought the Worksharp for chisels as well. I couldn't get them where I wanted them. Serviceable, but not shaving quality. Then I got a Tormek. WOW!!!! That's the real deal. I now only use the Worksharp for back flattening.

[Guy Dotan]

I borrowed an MKII from a friend. I plan to build a platform and give it a shot.