drill/countersink combo

[Chuck Pickering]

I'm looking for a quality drill/countersink combo that won't break the bank.
I have a cheap set of stamped sheet metal spade type countersinks that I have used for years. I can't remember where they came from. Problem is, I've lost a couple of them. They always worked fine. Can't find anything like them now days.
I purchased what looked like a quality setup by Kobalt, at Lowe's. Drill/countersink on one end, driver bit on the other, with Allen set screws holding the driver bit and drill bit so they could be replaced. Even purchased the 4 bit replacement set for it. Total cost $20. Went to use them and the quick change holder was so poorly made that the drill bit scribed a circle around the location for the hole. I returned the mess to Lowe's. What brand/type do you use and would you recommend it?
I have 2 decent cordless drills(Both Firestorm), so quick change from drill to driver is not a strict requirement, quality, adjustability, and affordability is. Also like the capability to change the drill bit, and adjust it's length if necessary.

Chuck

[glenn bradley]

For that sort of rough work (quick coupled bits and drivers) I have a Hitachi set that has done that job for a decade or so. For clean countersinks in furniture I use the single flute "aircraft" style sold by Lee Valley and others (although the Woodcraft ones were so poor they went back). They are HCS and so need a touch up every so often. The design means a touch up is just a small diamond paddle or stone touched against the surface for a moment or two as the bit is spun in a drill press.

For times when I will be doing a lot of holes, "quick" work if you will, I wanted something that would hold up to the abuse. I also got tired of the marks often left by the depth stop (and my casual approach when in a repetitive hurry). I had one of these on my Xmas list and got it. The nylon stop does mark less but, I still wouldn't use it on areas that would show. This works out for me since I rarely have screws anywhere that shows anyway.

[John Carmack]

I use DeWalt's brand from HDepot. I was thinking of buying an extra impact driver/drill just to use with a counter sink bit before I saw them. I got the 3 pack for $25 after trying out the single #6 bit for $9. You can even adjust where the counter sink is on the drill bit to have them ready for certain types of screws. Also, the countersink cutters can come off and be used on regular drill bits if you don't like the tapered bits that come with them. So far, so good. It even made a nice countersink in some 3/8" thick aluminum for me without any problems.

[pat warner]

Most, if not all, are compromises.
They clog, limit you to certain screw lengths, and the countersink
and drill should be used at different RPM's.
So I CS and drill separately. Countersinks are on their own arbors,
(second up on right), and the drills I use are for their respective materials (plastic, wood, steel, Al. etc).
Expensive for every screw size, yes, but not for the long run.

[John Carmack]

True. I still do regular pilot holes with one drill to get the depth right, then, with the countersink in the impact driver on full speed, bore/rout the counter sink cleanly.

[Andy Giddings]

I use either Snappy or Fuller. I've had the Fuller set for years and it still works perfectly. For countersink only my favorite brand is KEO - cuts smoothly and quickly every time

[Ken Kortge]

I notice that all too often that if I use a hand drill to create a pilot hole and and then countersink with a different bit, the countersink ends up off-center from the pilot hole. This is the primary reason I prefer the combo bits.

Is my poor countersinking "aim" the result of something I'm doing wrong? Maybe the countersink bit is not perfectly perpendicular? But I try my best to keep it perpendicular.

I use a Snappy countersink drill bit set, but can't say whether its any better or worse than anything else. It all I've used.

[pat warner]

"Is my poor countersinking "aim" the result of something I'm doing wrong?"
************************************************** ****
Yes, but not intentionally. To get square centered countersinks, the CS has to be piloted (with arbor).
The one exception:
Clamp the work on a drill press table. Then drill your pilot hole.
Don't move a thing. Change drill to counter sink and advance the counter sink. If sharp, the counter sink will track the center of the pilot hole.

[Andy Giddings]

Ken, on top of Pat's recommendations, I find this design of countersink bit works a lot better freehand than most types. A full set is expensive but for woodworking you could get by with 1 https://www.amazon.com/KEO-53518-Sin...eo+countersink

[Grant Wilkinson]

Lee Valley has these combos using tapered drill bits. They are pricey, but excellent.

You can see them here

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

[Jim Becker]

My older ones were by "Insty", but the most recent set I bought are from Snappy. I bought the ones that are directly compatible with the Centrotec setup of my Festool drill/driver this time around.

[Lenny Howard]

For years I used the Fuller and was constantly frustrated by the small set screw as it was constantly stripping out. Now I use mostly Snappy or the Dewalt if for no other reason than their larger set screws.

[jack duren]

I just use the Dewalts. I used Montana brand for years which also makes Hitachi. Lasted for many years...
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[andy bessette]

Have been entirely pleased with the Fuller countersinks, tapered drills and plug cutters I have been using for decades. A truly excellent system.