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Thread: Taking the Festool plunge...

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
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    2,005
    Quote Originally Posted by david mcintyre View Post
    I understand the EC is lighter and has a smaller profile but from what I've read the non-brushless's weight is better for horizontal sanding (which is primarily what i'll be doing). Plus the $125. When I tried both last Friday at Woodcraft the EC seemed a little louder than the non-brushless. Barely.
    When I called Bob, he even said to stick with the non-brushless.
    Sincerely, Dave.
    You pretty much covered. Lower vibration as I understand it too. Also there is a brake in the EC versions that will stop the sanding quickly if you needed to. Regarding being overwhelmed, yep, Festools system is like that at first. Start by downloading and learning every item in their catalog and why you might want/need/use it. Then hang out at the Festool Owners Group (FOG) and you can start learning about all the third party accessories and tricks within the system. Once you get a grip on it all youll find as many of us have, there really isnt anything else like it out there. Extremely vast offering of solutions and lots of great accessories that should be offered by all manufacturers. Take your time. Youll figure it out.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    Great choice! That saw is a most excellent machine that has truly revolutionized my shop and the way I work.

    I bought my TS55 kit with 55" guide off c/l, a few years ago. Paid $350 and am still using the original blade! Since then I've picked up the 118" and 72" guide rails plus a spare blade. The long guide makes straightening the edge of raw lumber a snap. But you'll want some shorter guide rails for convenience on shorter cuts. The clamps are entirely unnecessary as the guide rail is so easy to keep in place with its non-slip bottom strips. It is remarkable that this saw can make cuts, in expensive veneered plywood, that are splinter-free on both sides.

    You'll want to make up a number of 4/4-square, sacrificial wood strips to place under your sheet goods, so the blade doesn't mar your bench.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
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    9,447
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    You'll want to make up a number of 4/4-square, sacrificial wood strips to place under your sheet goods, so the blade doesn't mar your bench.
    Just use a piece of rigid foam insulation which supports the entire sheet. You can use it on the bench or on the shop floor.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  4. #34
    I called Bob and left a message. He got back to me within the hour (Sunday mind you). No problem swapping the 55" rail that the TS 55 REQ came with for the same priced LR 32 hole drilling rail. Bob's the man.

    Ben, thanks again for the heads up.

    Sincerely, Dave.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,895
    FWIW, I use the rail clamps most of the time I use the saw. I find they help.

    Welcome to the green Kool-Aid club. You won't regret the plunge. I haven't tried Van's rigid foam insulation trick. Not sure where I'd store it in my shop between cuts, which might be the deal breaker.

    And down the line, I think you'll find the need for the shorter rail. I use it as much if not more than the longer one.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
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  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,675
    Quote Originally Posted by peter gagliardi View Post
    I just found this myself about 2 months ago by accident. Is there any way to set forum viewing up so it does this automatically every time? It can be frustrating.
    Yes, you can set it as your default in your user profile.

    Jim
    Forum Moderator

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by david mcintyre View Post
    On a side note... Is anyone else having the issue of seeing the replies in order? I just replied to this post and somehow my reply went in front of David J and Ted's replies from yesterday.
    ???
    Sincerely, Dave.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    Upper right corner of the post list where it says "Display", click the "Linear Mode" option. That help?
    Quote Originally Posted by peter gagliardi View Post
    Is there any way to set forum viewing up so it does this automatically every time? It can be frustrating.
    To make Linear Mode permanent:

    Way upper right near your name: Settings
    Left side under My Settings and My Account: General Settings
    Around the middle of the page under Thread Display Options change Thread Display Mode to either Linear - Newest First or Linear - Oldest First depending on your preference.
    ​Sincerely, Dave.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    1,592
    Quote Originally Posted by david mcintyre View Post
    I understand the EC is lighter and has a smaller profile but from what I've read the non-brushless's weight is better for horizontal sanding (which is primarily what i'll be doing). Plus the $125. When I tried both last Friday at Woodcraft the EC seemed a little louder than the non-brushless. Barely.
    When I called Bob, he even said to stick with the non-brushless.
    Sincerely, Dave.

    You took a test drive at Woodcraft and then called Bob to order ?

    Tisk , Tisk,

    I think this is part of the reason some of the woodcraft guys are so smug.

    Be aware that the Forrest blade has a wider kerf than the Festool ,Tenryu and Freud blades ! Meaning if you use it, your splinter guards will be smaller and necessitate replacement when you switch back to the other blades. Tiem and $$$ wasted.

    I don't care how good that blade is - it's not so much better (if at all) than the stock blades as to warrant the hassle and expense of replacing the splinter strips on the guide rails.

    +1 on the EC sanders - but you have to use it. SO don't let a bunch of strangers tell you you should get something that didn't feel as comfortable to use to you.

    Re: the sandpaper. Festool's paper is really good. If you buy it in 50 - 100 it's not really that much more expensive compared to other quality brands. And you can get it down the street at your woodcraft today. Try that with Klingspor and Indasa. Uncle Bob will will even sell you mixed grit packs so you can try out grits and types before you invest in 50-100 packs.

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