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Thread: Plane most improved with a premium blade

  1. #31
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    Thanks Derek, it is a lovely wood (almost as nice as cherry ).

    Do you notice substantial differences in edge wear using different metals with maple or did you stick mostly to the new metals? In other words, what are your thoughts about the relative benefits of new metals on maple compared to O1, etc. Clearly the edge lasts longer for all metals on maple, but does the benefit gap narrow?

    Best,
    C

  2. #32
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    I finally replaced the blades in my LN planes with 'premium' blades, the favorite of which is a blue steel blade with laminated backing from Tsunesaburo.

    I tapped it out to form a nice landing on the back and sharpening it is extremely easy.

    I replaced the A2 blade in my 4 smoother for a Ron Hock iron, and it performs quite well.

    These are photos of the reflection made by the O1 blade on Honduran Mahogany.



    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson View Post
    Jim; do you find it more difficult to raise a burred edge on A2 steel, as you progress through your finer grit stones.

    Stewie;
    Yes, but I tend to catch the burr when it is smaller due to checking more often.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    Yes, but I tend to catch the burr when it is smaller due to checking more often.

    jtk
    Appreciate the feedback Jim.

    Stewie;

  5. #35
    Brian, are these the blades you used:

    http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/...64e942b1a7afd0

    ? How did the thicknesses compare with the original LN blades?

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Patrick, my comments are based on experience and not the laws of physics. Theory (supported by microscopic images) says that steels such as D2 and M4 have a large and coarse grain structure. In actual use, this is not apparent. It may eventually be so, as the edge wears, but that is a lot later in the life of that edge. By then I would have re-sharpened the blade.

    M4 can become frighteningly sharp. I have two beater 3/4" chisels on my bench, one in 3V and another in M4 ( beaters as they are durable enough to be used on anything). I had a visit from Rob Lee a few days ago, and ground and honed the M4 as part of a demo of the CBN wheels. Honing took under 1 minute. The edge was impressive. It will remain that way for a long time.
    Which M4 chisel?

    It it's one of the ones Stu sells and that you reviewed a while back, then be aware that the specific alloy used is Hitachi HAP-40, which is a PM version of M4. As I've said repeatedly, PM changes the rules. I have some of those (I bought the first one on the basis of your review as a matter of fact) and they take and hold an edge brilliantly.

    As you know 3V is a PM steel as well. It's difficult to hone because the Vanadium carbides are harder than anything besides CBN and diamond, but its grain size is pretty good.

  7. #37
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    Does the LN cap iron work with the Hock iron or did you have to swap it also?
    David

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chase View Post
    Which M4 chisel?

    It it's one of the ones Stu sells and that you reviewed a while back, then be aware that the specific alloy used is Hitachi HAP-40, which is a PM version of M4. As I've said repeatedly, PM changes the rules. I have some of those (I bought the first one on the basis of your review as a matter of fact) and they take and hold an edge brilliantly.

    As you know 3V is a PM steel as well. It's difficult to hone because the Vanadium carbides are harder than anything besides CBN and diamond, but its grain size is pretty good.
    Not one of Stu's chisels, Patrick. I know which one you mean. Stu refers to it as PM- HSS. He sent me one years ago for testing. The M4 and CPN-3V chisels I have were made by a private manufacturer, who was looking to get into the field a few years ago. Again, for field testing.

    Stu's Fujikawa chisel is still the hardest steel I have honed. It works more easily with a hollow grind.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Charles View Post
    Thanks Derek, it is a lovely wood (almost as nice as cherry ).

    Do you notice substantial differences in edge wear using different metals with maple or did you stick mostly to the new metals? In other words, what are your thoughts about the relative benefits of new metals on maple compared to O1, etc. Clearly the edge lasts longer for all metals on maple, but does the benefit gap narrow?

    Best,
    C
    Chris, I have not planed enough Maple to come to a conclusion. My impression, which is biased by the enjoyment of working this Maple, is that it is far less abrasive than the woods I am used to - similar to Tasmanian Oak, which is not from hot and dry Western Australia. I sharpen blades before they are dull enough to affect performance, but I do not count shavings to determine whether a particular blade is lasting longer. Unless I am specifically testing a tool, my interest is the wood, not the steel.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  10. #40
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    I finally replaced the blades in my LN planes with 'premium' blades, the favorite of which is a blue steel blade with laminated backing from Tsunesaburo.

    I tapped it out to form a nice landing on the back and sharpening it is extremely easy.

    I replaced the A2 blade in my 4 smoother for a Ron Hock iron, and it performs quite well.
    Brian, I assume that the blades are much thinner than the LN. I have a couple of the Tsunesaburo. One I used in a Stanley #65 for a few years before purchasing a LN #60 1/2. That was some years ago. The other is a Smoothcut, but I understand is the same blade. This is in a Stanley #51 shooting plane, which also is no longer used. However I recall them as excellent blades: easy to hone and held an edge for longer than Stanley steel.

    My LN#3 and #4 1/2 both use PM-V11, but with the original LN chipbreakers - only these chipbreakers work with LN. I also have old (hand beaten) Clifton O1 blades for these planes. The Veritas and Clifton blades feel very similar in use, but the Veritas holds the edge so much longer.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek



  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allen Jordan View Post
    Brian, are these the blades you used:

    http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/...64e942b1a7afd0

    ? How did the thicknesses compare with the original LN blades?
    It's thinner than the original blade, which is problematic. I made the change but it is not reversible.

    Quote Originally Posted by David Eisenhauer View Post
    Does the LN cap iron work with the Hock iron or did you have to swap it also?
    The cap iron worked fine, but I needed to modify the adjuster on the frog to accommodate the thinner blade. I was non-plussed that it needed to be done, but all in all much happier with the Tsunesaburo blade.

    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Brian, I assume that the blades are much thinner than the LN. I have a couple of the Tsunesaburo. One I used in a Stanley #65 for a few years before purchasing a LN #60 1/2. That was some years ago. The other is a Smoothcut, but I understand is the same blade. This is in a Stanley #51 shooting plane, which also is no longer used. However I recall them as excellent blades: easy to hone and held an edge for longer than Stanley steel.

    My LN#3 and #4 1/2 both use PM-V11, but with the original LN chipbreakers - only these chipbreakers work with LN. I also have old (hand beaten) Clifton O1 blades for these planes. The Veritas and Clifton blades feel very similar in use, but the Veritas holds the edge so much longer.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek


    Glad to hear that you enjoy these blades. They're thinner, doesn't make a difference in the cut, but it does make it more than a simple swap. I used the LN breaker.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  12. #42
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    I have a photo of the Stanley/LN/Clifton chipbreakers, from one of the articles on my website.

    The cut out on the LN chip breaker is about 1/4" further back than on the Stanley and the Clifton chipbreakers, which is why one run's out of adjustment on a LN plane if setting a closed up chipbreaker using anything but a LN chipbreaker.




    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 01-26-2017 at 1:09 AM.

  13. #43
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    Thanks Derek. Looking forward to seeing your completed cabinets.
    "You can observe a lot just by watching."
    --Yogi Berra

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