What am I doing wrong????

[Kevin Smira]

Just picked up a Veritas 14tpi dovetail saw. This is my first saw that I'm using by hand for "actual" work. I've got a 1x4 pic of select pine in my "vise" on my bench. I cannot get the cut started without pulling the saw back some and making a trench for it to ride in. I'm using paraffin wax on the plate, using a marking knife to make a cut line, holding the saw right...can't figure it out. Once it actually starts going, it seems to cut fine. However, on the "back side" of my cuts, there are fuzzy's like where the saw just pushed material back there? I searched, but didn't know the set of keywords to use to get my response that made sense.

Thanks,
Kevin

[Tony Wilkins]

Just picked up a Veritas 14tpi dovetail saw. This is my first saw that I'm using by hand for "actual" work. I've got a 1x4 pic of select pine in my "vise" on my bench. I cannot get the cut started without pulling the saw back some and making a trench for it to ride in. I'm using paraffin wax on the plate, using a marking knife to make a cut line, holding the saw right...can't figure it out. Once it actually starts going, it seems to cut fine. However, on the "back side" of my cuts, there are fuzzy's like where the saw just pushed material back there? I searched, but didn't know the set of keywords to use to get my response that made sense.

Thanks,
Kevin

others probably have a better idea than I, but how soft is the pine? Are you "lightening" the saw to get it started, i.e. Just barely kissing the stock with the teeth? I found that once I got the touch right that I didn't need to pull back (as I've heard that's bad practice). Also, are you starting straight across or beginning on the far edge and inching back?

[Nicholas Lawrence]

As far as getting it started smoothly, I would say just practice. Like Tony said, the usual advice is to start the cut on the far side, with the saw at a shallow angle. Once you get going, you can increase the angle, or lower it or whatever. There is a "Sweet spot" though where it seems to start best.

As far as the "fuzzies", you will have some. If you don't want any, you can knife the line, and that will help. Otherwise you will have some. It is a handsaw after all, not a laser.

[Mike Dowell]

Just picked up a Veritas 14tpi dovetail saw. This is my first saw that I'm using by hand for "actual" work. I've got a 1x4 pic of select pine in my "vise" on my bench. I cannot get the cut started without pulling the saw back some and making a trench for it to ride in. I'm using paraffin wax on the plate, using a marking knife to make a cut line, holding the saw right...can't figure it out. Once it actually starts going, it seems to cut fine. However, on the "back side" of my cuts, there are fuzzy's like where the saw just pushed material back there? I searched, but didn't know the set of keywords to use to get my response that made sense.

Thanks,
Kevin

Not what you want to hear, but I bought that saw as well and I hate it. I have learned now that I much prefer the "pull" saws, like Dozuki. My veritas push saw always seems to bind, and not want to cut.

[Pat Barry]

...I cannot get the cut started without pulling the saw back some ...

I do that - it helps enormously. Don't recall that its a no no and now I don't see why it would be.

[Shawn Christ]

I've had that saw for a few months now and had a similar experience when it was new. It really seemed to "bite the wood" and was hard to start, and I've seen others mention it too. The good news is it will settle down and get easier to start in no time -- just keep making cuts and practicing with it. Try starting your cut with the workpiece near the saw's tip and lightly push forward. I like to find the knife mark with my fingernail and use it as a guide to start the cut. I also get material on the backside of my workpiece, the "fuzzies" are easily removed. Don't get too discouraged just yet, keep at it, and I think you'll come to like that saw. It won't win any beauty contests but is a good value for the price.

[Prashun Patel]

You have to keep little pressure on the plate contacting the wood. it takes practice but there is no magic. Keep at it.

[glenn bradley]

I too just pull back about an inch, do a couple short back and forth strokes and then go to it.

[John Schtrumpf]

I do that - it helps enormously. Don't recall that its a no no and now I don't see why it would be.

I am with Pat on this. I feel dovetails should be an accurate cut. So I pull back once or twice, guiding with my thumb to make a shallow trench. I then place the saw in the trench, angle it for tails, then pull back and go.

[Tony Wilkins]

I'm not sure where along the way I was told not to pull back. Nor do I remember all of the reasoning beyond prematurely dulling the teeth. I have found that making the teeth just kissing the board as I start the cut slowly is more accurate for me and I no longer need to pull back.

[Jim Koepke]

The back bottom horn is on the saw for a reason. It is a delicate pressure with the heal of your hand against this to aid in just kissing the surface of the cut when getting a saw started. It takes a little practice to get used to it.

The exit side of the cut will have a bit more fuzziness than the entry side. This is a reason to make the cuts from the side that will be visible.

It might be helpful with knife marked lines to create a notch at the starting corner of your cut to help hold the saw to the line when starting.

jtk

[Ron Bontz]

Take it with a grain of salt. If you lean the saw forward you are increasing the hang/ rake. If you lean the saw back, you are decreasing the hang/ rake( less aggressive ). I test all my saws flat on the wood. There is no law against starting a saw by pulling it back. Only preferences and opinions. Lastly, a newly sharpened saw may be "sticky sharp". Especially in soft woods like pine. Also consider your posture/ stance in reference to the work piece. So a light touch and practice. You will learn what best works for you. Best wishes.

[Sean Hughto]

I don't know this saw, but there's nothing wrong generally with pulling back to start. Here's me from years ago cutting some tails in maple. I offer it only because it shows me starting and completing several cuts. Maybe it will give you some ideas to try. Let the saw do the work. Start it right and let your aim be to move it smoothly forward and back on a straight line. No need to steer or press down.
sound effects by Sean Hughto, on Flickr

[Curt Putnam]

You are not doing anything wrong, you just haven't got enough practice. I, too, am a newb at precision sawing and would offer the following after some 3 0r 4 thousand practice cuts. One thing to consider is Glen-Drakes's Kerf-Starter. Yes, it is a crutch but it may move your game downfield. Don't know if it is good practice or not, but I have started cuts closer to the heel than the toe - just for increased stiffness. With a sharp saw, you can simply set it down on end grain and then push forward (no down) and the saw will cut. I start at the back of the cut line now and just sort of give an extra push through that 1st resistance and then all is well until I wander off the cut line.
JMO & YMWV.

[ken hatch]

Sean,

I can't argue with the results but that "zipper" sound when you pull back makes my toes curl . I work differently, I start the kerf with the toe, make sure everything is alined and then make a light full saw plate cut check the kerf and correct if needed. As always there is no one correct way and YMMV.

ken