Aurora Borealis III

[Blair Swing]

This is a pecan bowl with transtint dyes, wop satin finish, and put through a buffing and waxing regiment.

This bowl was given out as part of a package deal when I sold Dark Side of the Moon to a private collector.

Selling Dark Side was difficult, but allows me some nice funds, (that the wife can't complain about spending) for more and better equipment, and also be able to send $1,000 to the V-Foundation, for cancer research, in honor of my dad, grandma, and the parents of the purchaser.

Comments and questions always appreciated.

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[Tom Albrecht]

Spectacular. What are "transtint dyes"?

[Frederick Skelly]

Blair, your work is always so inspiring. These bowls are gorgeous.
(For the record, I still drool when I remember Dark Side.)

Tom, Transtint is a brand of wood dyes. They come as a liquid, roughly $20 for a few ounces. Woodcraft and others sell them. IIRC, they were developed by one of the well known "finishing guys", but I can't recall which one. They are soluable in water and DNA, which provides you some flexibility.

Fred

[William C Rogers]

Beautiful. Yes I remember "Dark Side". I've been experimenting with transtint.

[Blair Swing]

Blair, your work is always so inspiring. These bowls are gorgeous.
(For the record, I still drool when I remember Dark Side.)

Tom, Transtint is a brand of wood dyes. They come as a liquid, roughly $20 for a few ounces. Woodcraft and others sell them. IIRC, they were developed by one of the well known "finishing guys", but I can't recall which one. They are soluable in water and DNA, which provides you some flexibility.

Fred

Fred,

Thanks for the compliment! I come here to be inspired myself, and always nice to inspire others.

Also good explanation on Transtint. Couple other notes, make sure you seal the wood, prior to starting the dye process, seems to help the result. I use DNA, on my pieces, and always one of my favorite couple days when I start the process, it is very soothing and relaxing, and I try to work with the grains of the wood, and remember it is better to start light, as it is hard to lighten up dark areas. For some reason, one trick I have found is that adding yellow over areas bridges separations and adds depth to the pieces, not certain why, but have liked the results. Also sealing over the first layer of color very lightly one day and adding more color the next day will add depth also. Multiple coats of finish, and buffing will give an almost porcelain finish to the piece.

Even if the DNA dries out in your containers, you can add more and revive them, so a bottle can last you a long time. I haven't yet bought the same color again.

Have fun with the process, and experiment on a piece of the same wood prior to installing the dye on your actual piece so you can anticipate the effect.

[Brice Rogers]

Blair, when you pre-seal your wood prior to dyeing, what do you use for the sealer? Is this the same sealer that you use after your first layer of color?

Since you are using DNA and shellac is soluble in DNA, would that be a good or bad choice for a sealer?

Do you have any difficulty getting the dye to "take" on top of the sealer?

[Blair Swing]

Blair, when you pre-seal your wood prior to dyeing, what do you use for the sealer? Is this the same sealer that you use after your first layer of color?

Since you are using DNA and shellac is soluble in DNA, would that be a good or bad choice for a sealer?

Do you have any difficulty getting the dye to "take" on top of the sealer?

I use a Minwax water based sealer on the first later, then either a very light wiping of the WOP, not trying for an even finish, or spray the piece with lacquer lightly when spinning. The dyes will penetrate where they can, when you spray with DNA, and you can wipe off excess where not not soaking in.

Then multiple coats of WOP to build depth, and buffing to finish.