Selected a Case 1845C Skid Steer

[Rich Riddle]

Thanks for that information. I will look for adjustable forks but the ones that adjust hydraulically from inside the cab are a bit expensive.

It should have a universal skidsteer quick hitch that is pretty much an industry standard. That will allow you much flexibility. I would look for forks that are width adjustable like a fork lift.

[Mike Kees]

Hey Rich ,nice looking machine. The 1845 is a solid one. Oversize engine that never has to work as hard as it could so it will last for ever. I have owned a bobcat 753 for about 15 years. As a carpenter /contractor I would say hands down forks are the most used attachment after a bucket on my machine. I have a hydraulic auger and 6'',9'',and 12'' bits as well as a 12' boom with a hook at the end that I use to lift small trusses/walls. Unless you are building a real big fence or have a use for an auger it probably makes way more sense to rent one when you need it. I actually prefer skid steers with foot controls for the boom/bucket. Its a personal thing ,hand controls are easier to master for a beginner. Wear the seat belt all of the time, it will keep your back from getting sore if you spend a couple hours in the machine at a time. Have fun and be prepared to meet all kinds of friends you never knew you had.Mike.

[Ronald Blue]

I wouldn't get the hydraulic adjustable type just some manually adjustable ones. If you were going to be using them all the time maybe.

[Mike Kees]

Sorry, just re-read your post about forks. Check out Bobcat forks, they only have one model. I have found that they have usually the best pricing on attachments.

[Rich Riddle]

I picked these up at auction for the Case Skid Steer. They're American made, and this set cost about half as much as new. Strange thing is that I was going to purchase this set new. These were about a mile from the house.

Forks.jpg Front.jpg Back Forks.jpg

[Ronald Blue]

I think you did good. You will have to post a photo of them on the machine. As was stated earlier definitely wear the seat belt.

[John K Jordan]

I picked these up at auction for the Case Skid Steer. They're American made, and this set cost about half as much as new. Strange thing is that I was going to purchase this set new. These were about a mile from the house.

You'll love those if you move things around. I use forks a lot, just an hour ago to move a pallet of bags of Quikcrete, move a few tons of black locust from a dead tree, and to move a bunch of logs and telephone poles yesterday.

Fortunately, my Kubota tractor uses the standard skid-steer quick connect so I can share forks between the two. Since the skid steer can lift a lot more weight than the tractor it gets the heavy stuff.

I did have a problem once - I bought an entire wrapped bundle of 2x6-10' lumber to frame my shop. Somehow I got it off the trailer and onto the ground with the forks, but when I went to lift and move it it lifted the back wheels off the ground! I was able to move the bundle by skidding the forks on the ground and driving with the front wheels only. I'd like to find a set of used bolt-on weights for the back of the machine but they are expensive.

I ran the skid steer for much of today. I leveled and compacted a spot for a new peacock house, 12'x24', got the batter boards up and ready to set poles. This building is next to the first one and will have a passageway connecting the two for flexibility in managing the flock. Hoping for more chicks this summer.

JKJ

[Rich Riddle]

John,

I have seen people use chains and straps over forks to lift things, so that will likely happen with this skid steer. I read what others say concerning tractors and skid steers so that avoidable injuries or incidents don't occur. Have a good day in Tennessee.

[John K Jordan]

I have seen people use chains and straps over forks to lift things, so that will likely happen with this skid steer. I read what others say concerning tractors and skid steers so that avoidable injuries or incidents don't occur.

I like to weld grab hooks to the top of the bucket, one on either side, so I can lift with a couple of big skidding tongs. (Don't tell OSHA) I put a slip hook in the center for cables and straps. Since I have the bucket on more than the forks this is more useful (and more secure) than hanging things from the forks. With the hooks you can also pull a chain or cable as well, harder to do with forks. In addition, since I put 3' lengths of chain on the tongs I can actually lift heavier loads with my tractor than I can't even lift with the boom: lift the boom as far as it will go then tilt the bucket up. On my tractor the bucket cylinders can lift more than the boom cylinders due to the geometry. I also fasten a couple of hooks on the BACK side of the boom near the bottom - not much reach but much more lifting force there since it's closer to the cylinder.

I bought a 50ft length of 3/8" chain once for a song and put a grab hook on one end only - I've used that 100 times! (especially for logging) You probably know this, but you can use a chain or cable to load a log far heavier than you can ever lift: wrap a chain around it and pull to roll it up some ramps to load onto a trailer or flatbed. I've pulled with a small car and even a 4-wheeler.

Getting hurt, or not: When I got my first tractor (and first chain saw, skid steer, weapons, welders,...) the first thing I did was research all the ways I could find to get hurt or killed. You can't protect against what you don't know and can't imagine.

A few: Not as much a problem with a skid steer but one way to get hurt on a tractor is do drive through the woods and accidentally bump a tree. That dead "widow-maker" limb way up high may be on your head a short time later. (I know a guy who needed 17 stitches in his head from a limb THREE trees away from the one that moved!) Another that might apply a bit to a skid steer but more to a tractor: drive through the woods and knock down saplings, then drive back the way you came. People have been found impaled by saplings that snaked up through the machine. A good way to lose your head and face is to clear brush and small trees by driving forwards to knock them down then backwards for another go. Catch a small tree with the back corner of the bucket and due to the force applied close to the fulcrum (the roots) the tree will come directly at you at a very high speed. DAMHIKT. The skid steer cab will protect from much of that but a limb can still come into an open-front cab like an arrow. A "good" way to flip over a tractor is to be driving sideways on a slope, completely under control, then drop a front tire into a small depression or run over a rock or limb - the "under control" can immediately turn into a roll down the hill. (Another good reason to never get in a hurry.) Or working on a hill, raise or lower the bucket while against a stump or rock or lift a rock on the wrong side of the bucket or, etc... Another accident just waiting to happen that everyone knows is driving too close to an embankment, even a small one - it gives away under one tire? hope you are wearing a seat belt and have strong ROPS and no tree or big rock enters your space. Or carry a heavy load in the bucket driving down hill. Or raise the bucket too high with a load. Or tilt the bucket up too much and have the load come backwards into the cab. Or catch one corner of a tractor ROPS on a strong, low limb while driving forward. Or clear brush or dig in the summer/fall and stir up a hornet/yellow jacket nest. (I neighbor's granddad died that way when he jumped off the moving tractor to escape and was run over when he caught his foot. I carry a couple of cans of spray AND wear long sleeves and a face net.) Or leave the bucket off the ground and get off the tractor - I've had a cat jump up and bump the stick. OK, I quit now.

Don't get me started about chain saws! (just read the little book "The Good Woodcutter's Guide)

JKJ

[Jim Becker]

John, I have hooks welded on both my FEL and on the bottom of the BH bucket for similar utility on the little Kubota. It's very helpful to have hard-points to fasten things to.

[John K Jordan]

John, I have hooks welded on both my FEL and on the bottom of the BH bucket for similar utility on the little Kubota. It's very helpful to have hard-points to fasten things to.

Where do you attach hooks to the backhoe bucket so they are not in the way when digging? That sounds very useful.

When I grow up I want to get a trackhoe with a thumb. I'd even be happy with a mini-ex.

JKJ

[Jim Becker]

The chain hook is welded to the back of the bucket, John, with the open end facing "up" if the bucket teeth are pointing toward the ground. On the FEL, they are on the top, back edge on each side. I had the dealer put them on before taking delivery...I don't weld.

[Mike Kees]

Hey John, just get a couple of guys to jump on the back for extra weight,we do it all the time. The scariest thing that has happened to me is a bank breaking on the edge of a basement that I was back filling. I was really happy that I had my seat belt on that day. John what do you do with the peacocks ? Mike.

[Rich Riddle]

I can have folks jump on the back for extra weight? That's a consideration......well it's one if the wife isn't anywhere near me to find out what I am contemplating. Something about safety.....

[John K Jordan]

The chain hook is welded to the back of the bucket, John, with the open end facing "up" if the bucket teeth are pointing toward the ground. On the FEL, they are on the top, back edge on each side. I had the dealer put them on before taking delivery...I don't weld.

Thanks, that makes sense, I'll add a couple. My dealer also welded some hooks on the FEL just as you describe. Unfortunately he used the type of hook made for use with a large clevis pin, welding just one leg to the bucket. When one eventually snapped off I discovered the hooks designed for welding, forged with a bevel for a strong weld and bought a few extra "just in case."

I use my backhoe even more than I thought I would around the farm, especially since friends have aging animal herds.

JKJ