DC remote recommendation

[Hoang N Nguyen]

Hi all, I'm looking to replace the remote I currently have. It's the stock remote from Oneida that came with my V3000 system. In short..... it sucks. Even with a fresh battery, I need to be right in front of it to turn it on and off and that gets old quick.

Do you guys have any recommendation on a replacement? One that would work with a magnetic starter.

Thanks,
Hoang

[J.R. Rutter]

I have a Shop Fox remote starter setup wired in to control my 15 HP dust collector starter. Might be worth asking an electrician if the 120v or 240v output from the remote starter can be used to activate the contactors your magnetic starter. You might need a different setup though. Regardless, I can report that the Shop Fox works over 50 ft. and I honestly can't remember changing the batteries in many years.

[Paul Bent]

I had the same issue with my Oneida as the OP and contacted the manufacturer about the issue a few years ago. They knew exactly what the issue was. I don't remember what it was called but they sent me a part to replace in the starter box which solved my lack of starting issues. Plug and play if I remember correctly. Anyways, now I can start it from anywhere in my shop now.

One thing I did notice is that if the starter was laying on a metal surface when the button was pushed, nothing would happen but with a small block of wood placed between the remote and metal surface the remote worked. You got me why on that one. I just attached it to my apron and always have it close.

[Edwin Santos]

I hope you get a good answer to this because I have the Oneida Super Gorilla and share your feelings about the remote/fob. I have wondered whether a garage door or gate opener remote from the box store or Amazon with the "learning" feature would do the trick. Surely it would have a better transmitter range than the Oneida supplied fob. I see some on Amazon ranging from $12-$25 that claim to be universal but the reviews are all over the place.

[Chris Padilla]

I wish I could recommend a good replacement remote. I built my own remote starter and I have to tell you, it is pretty easy. Anyone handy with tools (and most ww'ers are) could build their own remote control. A small electrical box/panel, a contactor, and a remote lamp control and that is all you need. Now I did go through a couple of different lamp control modules but then I picked up a Stanley one and it has been solid going on 5-6 years now and I can control my DC from 30' away no problem. The best part is you can do all this for likely under $40.

[Ed Labadie]

Not trying to be a jerk, but did you pull the antenna out of the starter box?

Mine worked much better after I did ......

Ed

[Hoang N Nguyen]

There's an antenna in the starter box that needs to be pulled out???? I'll have to open mine up tonight and take a look.

[Ed Labadie]

Yes, just a short coated wire, 6" or so long. There's a small hole in the starter box to feed it thru.


Ed

[Hoang N Nguyen]

I wouldn't say you were being a jerk but you did succeed at making me feel like a dummy!! HAHA, I kid, thanks again. I'll check it out tonight.

Yes, just a short coated wire, 6" or so long. There's a small hole in the starter box to feed it thru.


Ed

[Ben Rivel]

Same issue with mine too. Reception on the thing is really crappy. Also will not work at all sitting on my SawStop fence and its only 15ft away from the dust collector with nothing in between. Pulled the antenna out and replaced the battery with a new one when I first got it and had the problem anyway. Havent contacted Oneida about it, but if they have some better option that they are replacing it with now I definitely will. Thankfully I got it thrown in for free so I didnt pay for the remote option.

[Jim Becker]

If you grow weary of the trials and tribulations of using a wireless remote...a contactor with a centrally located switch works really good...and is 100% reliable as long as your power is on.

[Andrew R Miller]

i use the ivac system and no issues so far

[Sam Layton]

Here is a couple of photo's of the remote using a contactor that Chris and Jim mentioned. You can use any 110 remote, to activate the 220 contactor. The one in the photo is from Radio Shack. I added a two gang box, wall switch, and night light. When I go in the shop, I turn on the wall switch, and that activates the night light and 110 remote. The night light reminds me that the system is on. When I leave the shop, I turn off the switch, so no stray signals can turn on my dust collector. I just recently moved, and in the move I lost the Radio Shack remote control. I went to Home Depot and purchased another 110 remote, and the system is up and running good as new.

Sam



IMG_1675.jpgIMG_1676.jpg

[Jim Becker]

That's a very nice setup, Sam! And the flexibility of the contactor method is really nice...it really doesn't matter what form of "remote" you prefer. Match the contactor to the load and the switching voltage and do the remote switching in the way you prefer or require. And that includes using truly inexpensive wireless remote setups normally employed for things like holiday lights, etc.